=Enigma=

I think you answered your own question. If it was air tight, your engine would not run. No air, no combustion. You must have both air and gas to make a burnable mixture.

Sorry to hear about your car and glad to hear they came through with the check. Hopefully it will be as good as new or better when done.

Wait a minute. Do I need both a coil and the black box? I thought the BB was a "smart coil". Am I way off here? Please edumucate me...

Guys, I am in need of a replacement coil. I have a 73' 240Z with a single point dizzy. I am considering simply replacing the old coil with a Crane PS-20 coil, or switching it out for a Crane XR-700 Electronic Ignition Kit. So, should I keep the points or ditch em? Comments?

My insurance company only requires that I sign an affidavit certifying that the car is driven <5000mi/yr. No picture, no inspection. Requiring that we go and pay for an annual smog check would be ridiculous and unreasonably burdensome. I believe that car collectors and vintage car clubs would unite to opose this sort of heresy and defeat it swiftly.

Good to know. I'll ahve to attack that somtime in the near future. I don't wanna end up a fireball on some back road.

Any idea if this is true for a 73' or if the 73' even came stock with an E.P.?

Is there a stock shut off mechanism built in from the factory on cars with an E.P.?

I checked the filters inside the banjo fitting at the carb and they looked OK. I'll be replacing the fuel filter in the engine compartment tomorrow along with some fuel lines. Based on what Dogma said above, I did some more checking and was surprised to find an E.P. near the gas tank, after reading in a restoration manual that the 240Z didn't have one. Is the book wrong or did the previous owner add this? It looks like I have the older OEM Nissan version with the twist-off bottom. Any idea what I can expect when I twist off the bottom?

It could just be glazed. My 4runner started doing this a bit after I went wheeling in a boulder field and had to do a lot of clutch slipping to keep from damaging my undercarriage. I only feel the shudder now when it's cold. As it warms up it goes away. My clutch is not clipping and works fine. It more annoynig thatn anything else. Unfortunately, I think the only way to get rid of it is to drop the tranny and sand it off........

I just found out from the original owner that the car was only driven 5,000 miles in the last 15yrs. This goes a long way towards explaining the amazing condition of the car. That being said, what's the best way to purge the fuel system of varnish build up. Should I even be worried about this?

Ok, what's an E.P? External pump?

Thanks Beandip, I realized that I had forgotten about the fuel filter, or filters? Is there more then one? I know of the one in the engine compartment, is there one by the elec fuel pump as well? I'm still waiting for some maintenance books on this thing.

I'm not sure at this point. It drives fine but a little rough and starts missing badly above 4K. The plugs, disti cap, rotor, and points look ok. As do the plug wires, however I got a new set of plug wires with the car so I think I'll swap those in and see if it makes a difference. If that doesn't help, I will replace the coil as it looks a bit old and has a proprietary top post that holds the wire in by plastic knurled screw cap. Kinda strange and it's cracked. I just finished changing the motor, tranny and diff oils. Next on the list, clean the carbs and get them syncronized or possibly do a rebuild if necessary. All the weather stripping looks good but it's all a little hard so I'll probably replace all of it at some point, along with all the hoses that show signs of cracking or brittleness, particularly in the fusl system. The car appears to have some upgraded suspension components, namely it looks lower than I remember Z's being in stock form, and it appears to have aftermarket anti-roll bars but I'm not sure of this. The interior is in great shape, noting to do there but a bit of cleaning. The dash looks brand new. not a single crack or fading anywhere. Amazing.

Yeah, I thought about that too but there's little I can do about that. Man I wish I could afford to buy a house around here. Not having a garage or a tax write-off is killing me. :mad:

I hope you meat to say that it will NOT hold in moisture and it WILL prevent rust. Maybe I'm jus not getting it.

Yes, it has a removeable moonroof, not a sunroof. There seems to be two different camps on this. Some like it, some don't. The way I see it, it was a dealer installed option that was popular at the time, and as such it reflects the history and nostalgia of the times and the Z itself. I really don't care either way. But I can tell you that Since I live in Santa Cruz, where it's nearly always sunny and between 55 and 75 degress, it will be used.

My 4runner has a rubber flap thingy hidden behind the side of the rear bumper. It is there to prevent your ears from popping when you slam the doors shut. Most newer cars have something like this to vent internal pressure. I don't think you would ever have to worry about that with the Z. Maybe when they were new....

Can anyone recommend a good car cover for the Z? My Z will be parked outside under my carport and I want to keep it as protected as possible. I live 3 blocks from the ocean in a fairly foggy area. I'd like to keep moisture out and prevent it from getting trapped inside as well. Suggestions, comments? Sorry guys, I tried searching multiple times but I keep getting the folowing error: Fatal error: Allowed memory size of 8388608 bytes exhausted at (null):0 (tried to allocate 1024 bytes) in /home/httpd/vhosts/classiczcars.com/httpdocs/forums/search.php on line 839

Linky is working now. I forgot to close my title tag. Doh!

Well guys, I finally found the Z 4 me. I am soooooo stoked! I have wanted one of these since I was 16yrs old and I just turned 40. I just picked it up tonight. It's a 73' with 78,000 original miles purchased from the original owner, who bought the car new from the dealer in 1973 when HE was 40yrs old. This car has been very well cared for. It looks like it has been in a time capsule for the last 20yrs or so. No rust to be found on the body and only surface rust on the underbody. Unbelievable! I'm going to have lots of questions! Here's a pic. There's more at the URL below. Click here for more pics of my new 1973 Datsun 240Z

I dont' know if this has been mentioned in other threads or not but there is a real danger here of carbon monoxide poisoning. If you're not familiar with this you might want to read up on it. Basically, the Carbon Monoxide(CO) enters your bloodstream through your lungs and bonds with the oxygen(02) molecules, preventing the O2 from being absorbed by your vital organs which includes your heart and brain. This can lead to all kinds of bad things. Since CO is colorless and odorless, you may already be exposed even if you can smell the exhaust fumes. Take this very seriously.

Love that avatar Beandip. That's my favorite airplane of all time.

Thanks for the welcome guys. I've already been looking on Craigslist and may have found one candidate already. I have always hears that the running gear on the 240Z is more sports car oriented that the others? Is there any truth to this? What's the main differences I should be concerned with between the 240, 260, and 280. I have been searching but still can't any one stop shop comparison. Pointers would be helpful. Maybe I'm just searching with the wrong terms.

Hello everyone. My name is Adam. Just thought I'd give out a shout to all of you in Zland. About me: I live in Santa Cruz, CA. I'm a single father of a 13yo child and recently totaled a new motorcycle so I'm thinking of making a change. I'll soon be in the market for a 240Z so I wanted to learn all I could. I have wanted one of these cars since I was a wee little boy. Besides, I need something to tinker with to keep my sanity. I haven't even started looking around the forum but I think I found the right place. Cheers,