240znz

I'm about to do the same and if at all possible, are you able to post link to the white LED's you purchased for all sizes and quantities required. I have pulled the old dimmer of the 73 dash. It's buggered. What wattage 498ohm resistor did you use. Shouldn't be much heat generated dur tothelow wattage LED's there but better to be safe and not melt the dash. Thanks James

Yep, dum dum is also used to fix the plastic sheet between the door card and the door. From memory, it is a water barrier or something like that. That stuff is very tacky and is the reason my drivers window shattered when cleaning it off, don't ask, amateur mistake, lucky the parts car glass will be used. I remember some white felt plugs that I pulled out years ago. Previous owner had used silicon to stick them in place, took an age with a careful blade to extract the lenses. Scratched them a bit but not that you will ever see. Thanks for the prompt replies guys. It's been a while since I posted on here and wondered if it still the place to go for info, sure is, cheers. James

What is the recommended sealant used to secure the rear tail light lens to the bulb assembly housing? There are two slots in the rear plastic lens on the lower part which at my best guess is to let water out if it does get in? Can anyone confirm if this is what these are for and if that isn't the case, what are they for. Thanks in advance. James

She is very pretty Kats

Still for sale. PM me if interested.

Decided to keep it. Thought I had two stashed away but only one. Best keep it with the car.

E31 head for sale. About to go for a dip and clean up so ready for sale in a week. Not many of these about anymore. PM me with what info you need to know.

The one without the key in it is a door lock, not a hatch lock.

Hi All, Finally after eons of thinking I'll save these puppies for that L28 I am going to build, the reality is I never will so out this kit goes. For sale SK SPORTS kit consisting of 3 x Mukuni 44PHH, manifold (no linkages), bakelite spacers, no ram tubes, full rebuild gasket kit including pump diaphrams, copy of the Mukuni 40 and 44 manual. The decal that goes on the top of the manifold is missing. Manifold has been media blasted. I have bathed this in a hot enzyme bath, scrubbed them up and they come up great but would really need a full strip, media blast the bodies and replate the brackets and springs. These came off a L28 which I never heard running so I can assume that all the bits are there. I've had the jets out and can confirm that they are all there. No reason to think that they won't work. But as these are so old and I never saw them running, I can't be 100% sure that they are in working condition. Just wanted to be very clear on that point. I have 2 x 40PHH which also get sold with this kit. Happy to not include them but may have parts or spares you may need. If you are interested, PM me. You may never see another SK come up for sale and imagine the "what's that" and "where did you find that" comment at your local car show event. Image below is from a google search I did (thanks google) and the ones I have for sale. These will be going on ebay in a couple of weeks if no one is interested here. I'm in New Zealand and will be in the US later this year so could bring them with me if possible.

Here’s a left field idea. 240z in RHD command very high prices now. You can still find good better condition 240z in the US. Why not buy the RHD bits to need to convert a LHD? You’ll need loom, dash, peddle box, rack and get a good body guy to fabricate a firewall. Heater box too, transpose the heater chimney. ive got a 73 half cut but firewall is Swiss cheese. All the bits you need. Interested?

Hey Gav, Sorry to drag an older thread back up but I’m cleaning up the rear hatch glass today and thought I’d some more info. I shattered the passenger glass when I was cleaning the dumb dumb off the door (amateur mistake and pissed me off no end). That glass was clear as was the other panes. Remember that #352 was first registered in Australia also. No connectors in the roof for a demister.

Make sure you use a protective coat if you get down to bare metal such as KEYFOS as the steel will quickly get covered in surface rust.

As wisely said before, multiply your budget by 5. Take all the badges off carefully, all glass out, doors off (as you will need to access the sills properly or it will look shite). Guards off, sugar scopes, hood, cowl, gas flap, rear facia out and tail light clusters. Tool hatches, rear deck also. Here’s the killer. Are you prepared for all the rust repairs you will find? Your doglegs could need replacing, sills, rear arches, what about under the body issues? Once you’ve done all that, the little things will grate at you. Like the cost of new door scuff plates, you may want to put on new badges. You’ll spend countless hours polishing stainless, maybe new door handles etc. It will soon turn into a major, if you let it. Not trying to put you off, just letting you know what happens. Good luck.

Did anyone mention the "NISSAN 2400 OHC" rocker cover and hand throttle yet? I know this is hard to believe but HS30-00352 isn't far from finally being driven again. SHOCK HORROR!!!

Yep. still here, but not at all often.

These are the old ones now under the bench.

My panel guy told me where to buy it and it was a local shop here in New Zealand so sorry not much help I'm sorry. I too had new floors must in. Etch primed then tar, then primed twice to stop the tar bleeding. Two top coats to finish it off. No problem with the rust coming back for some time I'd say. More important attention under the car is the key here. It too was etched then two coats of a stone chip guard type paint, then top coats. As my car will live in a garage, hopefully helping in keeping the rust monster at bay for a while. Pay special attention to ensuring that your door seals are good and also that the cowl drain hose that exits into the front guard void is in good shape. They can perish and the result is water soaking the firewall insulator and tracking down onto the floor pans.

Not very many I'd guess as the S30 was a Japanese Domestic market only model with the L6 2000 engine. Doubt many made it to mainland Europe at all as all S30's were RHD. I recall seeing one in NZ a few years ago and probably imported here in the 80's when our importing laws changed. I have not seen one for ages, even HS30's are very uncommon and now very sort after. A unmolested HS30 is somewhere between NZ$25,000 and NZ$40,000 but they do come up.

Noooo, don't turn your your classic zed into a "TV resto" by putting in dynamat or something similar. Just put in the original tar paper like it was intended. Looks much better and very rewarding once you've slaved hours to put it in (burnt hands / sore back / am I selling it too you?). It took me two days to put all mine in properly and I put in a great deal more than stock just to keep it as quiet as possible. Over the tunnel, new modern sound absorbing matting over the tar and the original restored vinyl over that. Floors have tar/double matting and carpet. Hatch area is tar/matting and carpet. Should be quiet enough but nothing will stop the music the triples will make. Planning on making some sort of heat deflector where the exhaust goes from the engine bay into the tunnel to help deflect the heat somewhat as it gets warmish on the passengers side (RHD remember). But doubt it will do much bit it may help.