240znz

Gidday Rhys, You aren't looking hard enough for a L28. There a plenty of old 280zx's about this country just waiting for you to rip that heart of out of it. Just keep an eye on TM as complete cars come up for very little. Also try a few wreakers. You could also join www.zclub.org.nz ZClub is a NZ wide club (with most activity in Auckland) for all zeds. Plenty of knowledge there too. Just remember to refer to your car on this forum as a 280ZX even though the badge on the back reads 280z. The US got both the 280Z(S30 shape) and the 280ZX from Nissan where we didn't get the 280Z. We went straight from the 260Z to the 280ZX. Welcome to this fantastic club. It has a wealth of information stored within and you'll be amazed with the results from a forum search. Cheers James (Christchurch)

Heh Dave, The first one is out what you US guys call a Series 1. I've never seen the middle one but it looks like a variant of the Series 1 version with extra rubber bushes to quieten things down a bit, or maybe they are there to prolong the life of the large rubber mount that goes above it. The last one is what is on my 73. The correct one for my use is the first one.

Arne, no worries, I can wait. Just don't like the thought of having a fabricated part under my car when the rest is stock. It just wouldn't be right.

No-one got a spare they wish to part with? Anyone know of a S1 in a junk yard that they could rip on out of?

I guess you forgot to tell us what car it is?

There's a lot of the same responses here aren't there. Take it from people who have done what you are thinking and don't do it.

Hi guys, I'm on the scrounge again. Sent my series 1 gearbox crossmember away for a repair and powdercoating and they lost it. They are happy to pay the bill for it's replacement but I still need to find one. I could get one fabricated but I'd rather procure the correct part. If you have one spare that you want to part with to a loving and pampering home under my rebuilt shell, could you contact me please via this thread or PM me. Cheers all.

You need to check on www.ebay.com.au There is a chap in Aussie who has these and he lists them on a regular basis. None now that I can see though

Sounds like the gasket is stopping it from separating. A few blows with a rubber mallet will get it free. Just move around the bell housing, therefore hitting it from all angles.

I got my gearbox and bell housing bead blasted. Came up looking new. Only problem is that they will soon be covered in road grime, so I guess a clear powdercoat would help the cleaning process but hardly worth it unless the intent is to show the car, IMO. I have used a spray can to paint the half shafts. Haven't changed the universals in the driveshaft yet but probably paint the assembly the same as the half shafts. Then I'll get it balanced just to be sure (and because I didn't mark the spline before pulling it apart..DOH. Your 70 has a split driveshaft)

Would you notice the difference? Did the nine piece carpet kit come with carpet strips that go under the steel scuff plates? Sorry, but I am assuming that the 280z scuff plates are a little longer than those for the 240z.

Hell Xray, did you use the same body shop as me? Julio, make sure you take plenty of pics of the body work as they'll come in handy if/when you decide to part company with it.

Easiest way is to take the dash and steering column out. It's a bit easier then. But welcome to the world of tiny Japanese fingers. Have you tried removing the rear heater valve hose clamp yet? That's real fun too.

They are no longer available from Nissan. Well, that is what my local Nissan dealer said but they are very unhelpful. I made up new rubbers and steel clips. Didn't take too long to sort. Steel was galvanised sheet that I cut and shaped, primed and sprayed black. The rear cross member rubber could be replaced with a hoses. End the lines above the diff and extend with fuel hose to the tank outlets. My car doesn't have a vent return as does some HLS30's. Your being a HS30 shouldn't have a return vent if I'm correct. So all you will need to run is one large fuel feed, and two smaller lines, one for fuel return and one for the rear brake feed. Just take into consideration that if you find a US supplier of the rubbers and clips that they may not fit your car. HLS30's have four lines down the tunnel to HS30's three. To accomadate the fourth line, Nissan may have made the brackets/clips and rubbers larger than those required for the three lines. Worth checking. Have you found a source for engine bay fuel line rubbers that run along the frame rail?

When connecting a ground point of the wiring loom to the chassis, use star washers instead of spring as they "bite" the sheet metal to form a good contact patch.

Try and take it to a shop with a hoist so you can get it up in the air to view the underneath. It's well worth poking about under there as it will give you and Dave a good idea of the overall condition.

Good advice from Tom and John. Get a FSM as a minimum. Timing is done by a chain. If you want to replace the tensioner, you will need to remove the front cover. If you do that, you'll need to buy a full front cover kit which includes the gaskets and seals you'll need. Now if you are replacing the tensioner, it would be wise to put in a new chain, sprockets and guides. Thought about water pump replacement, nows the time for that decision, I'd do it. Check the front cover for corrosion around the water pump area. Get it welded up and resurfaced if it looks like it could do with it or find another in better condition. If now you think you want to leave the front cover on, just make sure you make up a block of wood in the shape of a wedge to jamb the chain. This will stop it from dropping down which results in the tensioner popping out. Which of course means that you'd need to remove the front cover.

Wouldn't you be better off with 44mm or 45mm carbs for that sized engine if you want to pull high revs?

Just stick to the prep procedure that POR-15 recommends. You don't want to be trying "trial and error" procedures do you? As the last thing you'll want is for the POR-15 to peel off as Enrique says. All the work you are doing now would be in vain. My car was not POR-15'd, but etch primed then semi hard chassis black paint and final body top coats plus clear. It's bloody bright under there. If I were to do it again, I'd paint the wheel wells black. Maybe if and when I change the suspension, I'll respray those areas.

I know POR-15 has a very hard finish but I'd put some sort of stone/chip guard back on if you can. I've never used POR so I can't be sure but IIRC there is some additional prep you need to do before applying another paint over the top of POR. At the very least, an additonal stone/chip guard paint will help deaden noise etc. Especially around the wheel wells.

You're doing it the right way. I had a butane torch and paint scraper and about 8 to 10 hours of hot and stinky work. Liberal quantities of turps and plenty of rags gets rid of what's left.

What about some fuel and brake line insulators? Down the tunnel I have three lines, fuel feed, fuel return and rear brake feed. I think you guys had an additional line for venting?Mine are gone and I've had to make new ones out of sponge rubber. I'm not sure just how long they are going to last.

Best put up some pics of what you have found. If it's like mine, http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=25915&ppuser=1608&sl=2 you'll need to have a real close look about. All I saw was a small dark match of underseal and when I poked it with a screwdriver, it shot through. The other side of this plate was rusted out as was the inner section of the frame rail. Remember that this part is two layers thick with no rust proofing. As it is in a ever moist area, if the seal isn't perfect, water will track through. I was lucky that the frame rail wasn't too bad, I had get some it replaced. Take off the front sway bar mounts and have a look in there too. Also have real good poke about under the battery tray from the wheel well with attention also to the seam where it meets the firewall/footwell area. Also check the front radiator support. Have a look at the pics in my gallery of what rust can be found in a seemingly "minimal rust" car. I'd suggest to anyone to drill some 19mm holes in each footwell so you can access the area with occasional rust preventatives. Checkj out the first picture in my gallery.

Yes, some 17's look good if the car is lowered enough to get that more aggressive look but simply shoving a set on can look a little out of sorts IMO.

Well, after scouring many car wreakers and my local Nissan dealer (got the usual, "a 240z? What's that....checked computer and NLA) I have had to make my own rubber insulators also the missing brackets. Found a rubber sponge section with the eaxct dims. Yes, once frozen, it is easy to drill, but it does thaw quickly. Managed to find some galvanised plate slightly thicker that the orginal brackets but bent up OK. Now in the process of figuring out how to use a pipe bender without having to waste enormous amounts of pipe. Slowly does it. Cocked a large bit up and now need more pipe. I'll keep going, it's kinda fun in a frustrating kind of way (if there is such a thing). Got out all the fasteners out that I got re CAD plated. Missing so many it's not funny. No steering knuckles, gone. To the parts car to grab those then off to the fastening supplies to pick replacement bits. May as well go stainless under the car. Should have gone with my instinct and wired them myself. Oh well. Getting there.