240znz

I have had the cam that came with the car profiled and it as below. The head shop has worked the head also. So far I have. E88 head Compression is 9.5:1 Inlet valves are 44mm Exhaust valves are 35mm A bit of porting only in the chamber to match them. No unshrouding done. Cam spec is 236@50 0.465 lift. 108 degree separation and tappits are .010 That's all the info on the cam that I have. Based on info I have read, this seems like a mild cam at best. Am I right? Engine size is 2.5 running triple 44PHH's. I wonder if I am wasting my time with rebuilding the triples when the SU's would be OK. Your thoughts please.

Just stumbled across this on the local club circuit website. http://www.canterburycarclub.co.nz/lap_of_ruapuna_international_raceway.htm It's a flying lap of Ruapuna (roo-a-poo-nah) track which I used to hoon around years ago on my RGV250 and a 120mph Yamaha YZ125 methanol powered go-kart. When I have the zed finished it will "get the treatment" around here but only against the clock. Enjoy

"Minor rust" my arse. I shudder at the thought of the poor sole who removes the dogleg to do the "minor" repair. A wee bit more than minor I suspect. Since when has a vinyl roof been described as "sports package". Not sure that this cosmetic weight adding feature enhance the ability of the car to be sporty at all. Oh well, it doesn't look as bad as some we have seen on ebay over the past months, someone will have it for a price they are happy with I'm sure.

Welcome. A 5 speed box should be high on your list.

Ozone, Try www.wolfcreekracing.com for the linkage.

Exhaust fumes or fuel fumes? If exhaust them as Jeff suggested. If fuel smell, then start checking all the hoses on the fuel tank especially around the expansion tank behind the right hand hatch inner guard cover.

Good luck with the sale Steven. I'm sure that the new owner will wear a wide smile for a very long time.

With respect and without prejudice (you gotta tread the threads carefully sometimes around here). "IMO" should sometimes be rewriten IMM-IO "In my mis-informed opinion" Wahoo, I'm the 4th "non US resident" person on this thread. Do I get a prize???? (Clears throat with gusto, pauses then.....) I have a sub 500 HS30 and hope that the price of them rockets just after I have finished the rebuild (not yet as I need parts). But IMO, it's a high price to pay in todays money. What the future holds is pure speculation.

Sulio, I have a SK manifold also and also looking for a good linkage setup for my 44PHH's. I'm after a cable actutated one. PM in your inbox Alan.

My longest trip is tiny when compared to yours guys, but none the less, it was a bit of a interesting journey as it was also my first drive. Auckland to Christchurch (New Zealand) is only 465 miles. However, it contains such diverity as boiling mud, snow capped active volcano's, long boring straights, a three hour ferry across Cook Strait (a nasty bit of water), vinyards, a twisty coastal highway, zed heaven hills and more boring straights. I also had just flown up to Auckland with cash in my pocket to buy a car that I had never seen nor ever driven in a zed before.....nuts? Somewhat, yes. Met the guy, drove it, bought it. Checked the oil, changed the fuel filter, purchased some radiator gluey gunge just in case it had pinholes and set off down the line. Great power, nice ride but it popped out of 5th when you put the boot up it. Got high onto the desert road and it began to snow, turned on the heater and nothing (control wires bent behind selector), turned on the wipers, what a mistake that was (wiper blades shot and the pivot rubber grommets were gone resulting in the pivots corroded to bits hence wiper speed issue). Back into fine weather and now the boring starights, pulled the hand trottle and nothing, not connected (wise previous owner). Got dark so on with the excellent H4's, fantastic vision but no dash lights. Stopped and contorted to find that the reostat fell apart when I finally got my hand to it. So the remained of the evening was spend driving with a glove on my right knee cause the vent was stuck open full, a mini maglight being used to check guages every 5 or so minutes and speed was regulated by the whine from the diff at 65mph. Magic. Finally got to Wellington and stopped in a mates place for a few cold ones, dinner and bed. Oh not before emptying the car as the hatch lock was stuffed so the car was effectively open. Not too bad I thought. Next morning frosty, no heater....hmmmm, managed to follow my mate to the ferry terminal and waited as it waited for mechanical repairs to be completed. Ferries are never on time are they. The day warmed up and curred the frosting and condensation issue. Ferry trip was flat across the islands and arrived in Picton not feeling like throwing up too much. Drag race to the closet petrol station then the last 4 hours of magestic winding road down the Kaikoura coast to Christchurch. There are a set of hills called the Hunderlee's. I went up, turned around, went down and repeated as I was now I was totally into the car. Finally got home to Christchurch with a huge smile and sore arse. Then the work started and hasn't stopped yet.

The offset doesn't look right from those photo's. Ask him what the offset is before going any further.

Don't take that as an answer from Black Dragon. That's just horse shite in my book. By storing it for a period of time doesn't make it warp or shrink does it! So they are just hiding behind a "policy". Give them heaps man, don't settle for that answer at all. If you don't get any luck then go to a bone yard and pull an old set of any S30 body you can find. The stainless will polish up like new with a bit of elbow grease. Good luck to you.

You could try and find an old handle at a wreakers yard and very carefully remove the clip and try to fit it to yours without breaking it. But for the money, I'd buy a new handle and install it. You can remove the lock latch mechanism and this will allow the whole assembly to move into the door cavity where you can get your non Japanese fingers into the area and snap on the arm. I little cursing is OK and on most occasions required. You may also need to remove the lower inner door handle rod pivot bolt to get the thing out too. It's located at the lower corner of the door closest to the dogleg. If I were you, I remove the entire assembly, clean it up with degreaser, re grease and reinstall. All this shouldn't take you more than a couple of hours and well worth the effort. No more clunky door handle noise and the door locking mechanism will be very smooth to lock and unlock with the key.

Arne, FWIW my HS30 build date 12/70 does not have the evaporation tank. Can't be sure if this is the is the same for HS30's but I suspect so for the same era delivered to different RHD markets.

Original no, but my wife calls my resto project "That F**KING car" and the rust bucket down the side of the garage she has denoted as "old banger" I call the resto project "The mighty ZED" and the parts car is "His Holeyness"

Great pics Kats. Looking at the pic of the brake and clutch masters, can you tell me why there are what looks like two ballast resistors attached to the firewall? Just curious tiz all. Hell Alan, Liz Hurley!!! I for one wouldn't kick her out of my bed and being a New Zealander, I LOVE mutton . I sopose you would prefer Fergie?:eek:

Anyone who has done a complete rebuild/resto on a S30 would think twice before doing another one. Not because it is probable going to cost more than buying one already done, but for the shear time commitment it takes to do it right. Oh, and the space required to store those parts. Also if you worked out what it would cost you before you did it, then add 30% because that is what it will cost extra, then that would kill many of the best intended resto projects dead. But heh, I'm doing mine because its been a childhood dream to own one. To make it worse, I found a low VIN one and that to my peril makes me feel as though I should do it right. Emotional about a lump of metal, yes. Weird, yes!

Mike, I had the same issue with the cowl area. However, I completed stripped my car before taking it to the panel shop. They removed the spot welds that covered the fresh air intake chimney and found a mess in there but not as cancerous as what you are dealing with. You may have to remove the dash to gain enough access to complete a lasting soluton. It's not too bad a job but it is suprisingly heavy. You also may want to find out what is behind that pop rivited panel on the firewall just above the right hand frame rail. Hmmmmm. Go the sub 500 club.

I did mine about a month ago. Just take your time with a craft knife and run it around the seal, then slowly, very slowly apply pressure to the lens to lift it free. It will more than likely let you know when the seal is broken and should separate at one side first. You will need to apply a suprising amount of force to get them to budge. Then try your hardest to remove the three clips that secure the centre plastic divider. Spin them slowly back and forth with upward movements and they will eventually come off. As above, if they do break, then just buy some small self taping screws to secure them back on. Some poeple have suggested glueing it back in place but I'd recommend not as 20 years down the line you won't be able to repeat the process without breaking them. If you think they are hard to find now, try in 20 years time. I used some brasso to finely cut the lens and the results are amazing. They look as close to new as possible and all the correct markings are intact. I have sent the plastic divider out to a plastic chromers for new chrome. Can't wait to get them all back together so I can tick another box off in the resto. Just take your time and you'll be OK. They cost too much to rush.

The best thing about owning one for so long without driving it is the words you guys write, without which the flame would dwindle but never die. So for me it is the memories of filling up and people of all ages walking up and asking "what is it", "awesome car", "they sure did know how to make cars look good way back when", heh, the list goes on. My personal memories are of blasting seemingly effortless uphill with not even a moan from the car, yes a few squeaks but never a grumph!. Its these memories that drive the flame on and on. Oh, and of course the pleasure of rebuilding it from the bare bones back.

I'm getting rid of mine and installing an electric fan. Not sure which type or model yet but I'll tap the temp sensor into the rad somewhere and run cables from the battery via a relay off the ignition. It will free up a tiny amount of HP and stop that noise. From memory, I recall that sometimes I could swear that the fan produced more trust than the L24, just by the noise it made at high revvs.

Typical engineering stamps will do. Most engineering workshops have them and would only take a few minutes at most to stamp them numbers on the decal. Just be careful when stamping to hard as you could punch through the foil. Place a hard piece of rubber underneath the decal and tap softly first then have a look. Maybe practise on a piece of tin foil (aluminium foil) first.

I've got mine a few days ago. Excellent reproduction and a must for that resto project. 10 out of 10. Now if only you could do all the other ones as well.....hint hint.

Have you had a look around www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html yet? It covers a hell of a lot and takes hours off searching the net.