240znz

The biggest power gains in these engines are with head work. You should stand back and plan the package as a whole then introduce parts as and when your wallet will allow, making sure that the order in which you introduce them doesn't decrease the performance. e.g larger exhaust diameter on a L24 = less low down torque. Building a head suitable for that "future" L28 upgrade but putting it on a L24 will not be a good idea (so my head builder informs me). A L24 likes 40mm carbs but a L28 prefers 44's or 45's. So spending money on dyno time to set up the 40's will have to done again (and different jets) for a L28 if you want to extract the most from it, which is the point of the upgrades anyway. Electronic ignition is a good starting point as all L series will benefit from it, so is the diff upgrade. Apart from that, if you want power, don't rebuild the L24. Buy a L28 and slowly build that up until it is ready to drop in, then change the exhaust and off you go to the dyno. Don't forget about brake and handling upgrades as well. There is little point going fast if you can't go around corners or stop. I'd do that before any "go faster" mods.

Thought about the removable steering wheel? Unless they have a car transporter, no chance. However, you might look a little funny walking into a bar with a steering wheel. I'm thinking about installing a fuel line cut-off tap inside the rear hatch tool boxes.

Not a bad first zed to cut your teeth and by the looks of it, you could have plenty of nights ahead tinkering and tweaking. Whip that carpet out and have a good look at the pans and get a torch under the front and rear guards and look hard. Please sort that handbrake adjustment out first. It's not a WRC rally car. Interesting that this 73 comes with the slot for the hand throttle lever (next to the choke lever). Are 73's all like this or has it had a console transplant? Love those wheels, I want them!!!

Nice and shiny. Great work!!! I heard once that nylocks should not be re-used due to the fact that the nylon won't bite the thread as well the second time around. Maybe worth a look at getting new ones???? I'm not sure, anyone else heard anything about re-using nylocks? It might be an idea to use some Loctite thread locker if you re-use them. Worth a thought.

Check out Zed Findings website for images of what holes should be where. http://www.datsunzparts.com/images/Floors/Floors-%20240Z/Floors%20-%20240Z%20-%203.JPG James

Hell man, if the floor is gone, you'll need a bloody big plug won't you????? Right, no more joking. I'm have new floors in my car. The pans did not have the holes in them and I will be using a hole punch to ensure that they are added as they are an essential item to a car. Just go an buy some rubber plugs from you local rubber supplier. If you live in an area where you need to ford a river everyday (other than selling the zed and buy a Toyota Land Cruiser), then I'd use some silicon sealer when putting the new bush in, but other than that, don't worry yourself.

The pricing between MSA and Black Dragon for rubber gaskets looks a little one sided. I'm after the rear brake light cluster and front indicator gaskets for my 240z. Has anyone here purchased them from BD and been dissapointed? Are the gaskets that MSA sell "Genuine Nissan"? Cheers James

I'm going to purchase some new ones from Courtesy Nissan. Thanks for your input guys. There is more and more evidence stacking up to suggest that these have been fabricated.

Attached is a pic of the plates. The centre hole is offset to the left on both plates and the thickness is approximately the same as the sill kick plates. The curve is formed via a series of four folds spaced at about every 10cm. The condition of them is "mangled", the camera flash makes them look far better than they are. They could be off anything.

Yes Walter, that could be the case, but near impossible to prove. I forgot to take a pic of the offender last night. I've tied a string bow on my little finger now......sheesh!:stupid:

Dave / Will, With Courtesy Nissan price at $8.45, you'd be hard pressed to make these worth your while profit wise don't you think? The market is pretty small. Alan T - can you shed any light onto this?

You're welcome, I just didn't seem right to raid your thread. I have HS30-00352. You'll note that the L is missing meaning that it a right hand drive model. This just goes to show how few RHD models were released into the market when compared to LHD of the same build date. MikeW, I'll post a pic of it tonight if I can find them buried somewhere in the mess that goes with bare shell resto's (these cars sure have a lot of parts)

Yup, that's the scuff plate. Mine is just plain old polished aluminium and with the above posts confirming that early HLS30 models came in vinyl covered steel, it makes me think that mine are aftermarket or off a different car. I've asked the same question on a HS30 forum and I'll update here accordingly.

Yes, it looks a little sick doesn't it.

This thread is about the internal SCUFF plate. This thread has nothing to do with the external KICK plate which has the DATSUN logo embossed. In the recent thread by Astrohog http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=25416 there were some views traded but I moved this discussion here so as not to continue to hijack that thread. My HS30 has a build date of 12/70. It came to me with aluminium scuff plates fitted. I am not the orginal owner. Courtesy Nissan has emailed me confirming that the scuff plates they list http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...Code=76942-S30 are made of steel. So this raises a few questions regarding my scuff plates that I am curious to expand further in an effort to find out where they came from. So if you can shed some light, I'd appreciate it. I'm not loosing sleep, just curious. Either: 1. My car came with steel plates but has had them changed out to aluminium ones by the PO. 2. Did low VIN 240z's in either RH or LH drive guise come out with aluminium scuff plates from the factory? 3. Did 260z's or 280z's come out with aluminium plates? I'll be ordering a set of the plates that Courtesy Nissan lists as MSA nor BD can match the price. Why their prices are so inflated is anyones guess. Maybe theirs are made out of aluminium:tapemouth ? That's why they are more expensive????? :tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth So if you have a low VIN S30 of any variant, or have some ideas and can shed some light, please help a curious Kiwi out.

OK, I'll start another thread as "it's clear" we have hijacked this one. Astrohog, you're onto the right track there with making sure you do any repair right first time.

Well, how about that then. This means one of three things. 1. Either my car has been fitted with new aluminium scuff plates at some stage. or 2. Nissan shipped early cars (mine is HS30-00352) with aluminium scuff plates and chanded to vinyl covered steel at later date. or 3. The car you have has had its aluminium scuff plates replaced with steel ones at some stage. It makes sense that Nissan made them out of steel as they would get hit by the heel of shoes more often than traffic on the kick plates. Just seems strange that there are two types to me. Surely the vinyl steel versions would cost more to produce? Is this another cost saving measure Nissan made druring the evolution of the zed? Time for a search.

Astrohog, That is called a skuff plate. You can buy new ones from almost anywhere but they are cheapest from http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=76942-S30 They can't have rusted as they are made out of aluminium. If you have rust stains on them then this could indicate a more serious issue that I had on my car. You should take off the scuff plate and the door weatherseal to get at the seam that is formed by the outer sill and the inner rail. I'd also remove the kick plate (Datsun logo) at the same time to check the state of the sill itself. It is not uncommon that if you have a badly worn of perished door seal that water track underneath the plates and sit and rust out the sill and the seam. Mine was horrific!

Yes, you should replace that old foam. The reason it's there is to stop vibrations in the cowl at high speeds. Any foam that doesn't hold water will do in there, just use the old bit as your template for size and thickness.

39 and ensuring that the good times always roll down here in New Zealand.

All the heads I have had done have always come back nude i.e. bead blasted. Never heard of anyone painting a ali head before. I'd ask them for a reason why.

Wow, a UK N reg'd 260 2+2 on the emerald isle. Are you in NI or the republic? This website has a wealth of information, but you should also make contact with the UK based zed club. http://www.zclub.net/ Being a little more local that the US you may find it a bit cheaper to procure parts and of course there could be a chance that there are other 260 2+2's in the UK. That would be advantage in fault finding if you need any help. They are a happy bunch. Take time to check them out but take advantage of this sites forum database. Our Septic Tank friends got the majority of the S30 range remember. http://www.mjpauto.com/

Ron, Pen that in now thanks. I'll take one off your hands.

As above, its your car so paint it what you want. We are just adding our own opinions which should have no final bearing on YOUR decision. With regard to resale, then yeah sure, you may lose a little if there is another identical car but with factory paint for sale at the same time. You are right, final colour chioce is a HUGE decision. Every since I got my car I have always liked the idea of changing the colour to red. The period reds are not to my liking so I am going for a modern red called Sting Red used on Holden Commadores and is not as scarlet as the Ferarri red but just a bit less "in your face". I did have a moment or two I admit thinking that orange or yellow are nice but I always steer back to the red. You may find you do to. The only advise I can give you is do not rush your decision at all. If you get the colour wrong now, then you'll kick yourself for years. Check the Holden website out and you'll find the red I'm talking about. http://www.hsv.com.au/index_eseries.asp look under cars and GTO. I took a LS2 powered SS for a blat 3 weeks ago and confirm that they are evil things that should be only driven on race tracks.

Hi Ron, Pencil me in for one would you. My 12/70 build 240z master vac is due for a strip and respray. I just need to check the old decal with yours to make sure thay are the same for HS30's. I doubt there is any difference but you never know. James