240znz

Be very aware that many (if not all) Japanese cars that are exported out of Japan to New Zealand have had the speedo's wound back to get a higher price. This seems to be the norm and our pathetic government doesn't seem willing to stir up the industry to get it above board. Fraud in every used car sales yard over here, guarranteed. I suspect that any used import into the USA will be the same. So, as the other guys say, buy a Z32 and obtain some FairladyZ badges from Japan and ther you have it, a differnent labelled Z32.

Go on, someone please buy a set and report back with the findings. As a side note, the lens in my guages are green. Are LHD 240z's lens' the same?

sorry guys - clicked submit twice - DOH

I stuck thinking if he his a complete nutter or a man who has missed his calling. What an amazing project that gives me a headache thinking about in terms of complexity. Wicked!

Another place to check is upper portion of the firewall. Water enters the cowl and collects before finally exiting the leaf infested area via rubber tubes to the inner fender cavity (behind the inner fender splash panel). There is only primer in there and a bit of overspray if you are lucky. Very hard to detect but will cost you a bomb to remove as you need to remove the steel panel directly under the cowl (if you want to it properly). Under there you will find the fresh air inlet chimney which whose dum dum will have dried and become brittle. Those rubber tubes that provide a path from the inner drainage area to the inner fender cavity pass through the cabin. Crazy yes but that's the way they made it. These rubber tubes are prone to cracking and subsequently leak water onto the firewall sound deadening jute covered card board....slowly eating away to the firewall and eventually the floors. Best have a look at an exploded view of the area to understand what I am describing here. There is a good exploded view in the Nissan Chassis and Body Manual. If I had a scanner, I'd post the pic here. Can anyone assist? It details every seam and where seam sealer is applied. But as a general rule with purchasing any car from this era, get it up in the air and/or get a professional appraisal before purchase from someone who really "knows" where to look.

Great links Will, thanks matie.

Gidday Will, Interesting that you write that Nissan never made a RH version of the mirror. A car dealer in Dunedin recenty rebuild a 71 240z and with his excellent contacts in Japan, found a NOS set. That is what he told me anyway. The only way to be sure is to look at them on the car from the front and see if I notice any stalk angle differences. That will have to confirmed next Feb when we all meet up again. I concur with Will with regard to those mirrors listed on ebay.com.au as not original units that came out on the 240z in the US. Just for your info, my HS30-00352 was imported into Aussie and then shipped over here to NZ in 74. Someone put ugly ZX door mirrors (or similar) on it and painted them with a paint brush.... ! The car had fender mirrors originally as there are crude front guard repairs where they would have been. So JDM verisons had front guard mirrors and US ones got the ones shown above in Will's post. I wonder what UK, Aussie and NZ Nissan show room cars got as standard? Anyone know???? Any pics? James

I know that this thread is old but in searching for some information on the different mounting of LHS vs RHS standard door mirrors, I stumbled across this thread. OK, to put to bed the availability of RHS door mirrors as of the 13th of November 2006, in my exhaustive searching in NZ and "people in the know", they are no longer available, from Nissan New Zealand or in Japan. Maybe in Aussie but I very much doubt it. I will have to buy a LHS mirror and flip it over to use on RHD 240z. No big issue as I won't run a LHS one anyway. I'll just have to nail it for longer to be able to see the car in my rear view mirror, tiz all. Never exceeding the speed limit officer of course (cough cough). So, save yourself time, don't even bother looking as you will not find them easily, if at all. Happy hunting.

I second all that has been said by he with the "60 year old butt". My car cost about 6K of your US notes. I have spent about 2K on parts and in the process of parting with another 6K for to the car to be taken back to bare metal, new panels fitted, rust removed and of course new paint. You pay for what you get in this world and I have no illusions that I will not see a profit on this car unless some nutter in Japan wants a low VIN RHD 240z in his collection that has almost every part either rebuilt or new. Oh, and I'm not selling it either. Best advice anyone can give is DONT RUSH INTO BUYING ANYTHINGn (I did and now I'm hurting). Take your time and get a bloody good feel for what they are worth and know where to look for the hidden problems. The hardest thing to do is to set your emotions aside when actually viewing with the intent to purchase. Heh Mike, it should back from the shop in about 8 weeks, give me about another year to put it all back together and she's all yours for your next God Zone trip.

The oil sender on you block is probably shot. It is a common problem. You could try putting a new one on and see if the guage reads any better. If it doesn't, then I'd be directing questions to the person who rebuilt the engine for you.

Yeah do a search first and read the volumes that jump out at you on this subject. Some people have used silicon spray on the rubbers then closed the doors. Do this for about a week or so and they'll eventually soften and mould to your door, forming a good seal. I am yet to install mine.

I placed a huge order with MSA that included both the left and right hand sills. They sent me two right hand sills in error. I gave them a call and emailed them a picture. MSA had a left hand sill delivered to my door in 5 days. I live in New Zealand, so the freight would have been expensive for the extra sill, well at least what the sill was worth. No quible, no nonsense, excellent service and great products.

Some web sites state that the series 1 was 200lbs lighter than later models of the 240z. The series 1 had slightly thinner sheet metal and the lack of steel about the top of the B pillar meant that the lead filled seam where the roof meets the hatch cracked. Mine has classic signs of this and I will be adding just a wee bit more steel to stop it happening again. So which is best? I'd point to the early VINs first then a rust free any year model a very close second.

Or a huge heater fan upgrade with massive passenger footwell outlet to blow the dress off.

Take the easy route and get them pressed out. Best money you'll ever spend.

1. A OS Giken twin cam head (complete with 44PHH's and warmish cams) 2. Toyota front caliper upgrade. 3. 25mm lower. 4. Nice set of Watanabes with sticky feet attached. 5. Half poly, half new rubber. 6. Better seats. 7. A grunty ignition system. 8. Front airdam. The rest is just fine thanks and I just love it!!!!!:knockedou

Worst thing about this place is that it is addictive. For a while there I was only coming here every other day or so but now I'm back again. Since my resto is somewhat still in limbo, I have very little to offer in the way of advise. Hopefully that will change one day and soon, as I'm sure most members agree that knowledge on these cars comes from dirty hands. It is a crying shame that some members choose to no longer post here or on any zed related sites. The wealth of knowledge that is gone is sadly missed and maybe one day they may return to again help us out. Maybe a ZX forum would be a good idea to appease those ZX owners. But I agree with Enrique, how can we offer support if we don't know ourselves. But there have been exhaustive discussions about that subject as well. In fact, most subjects have been thrashed out many many times and will again.

VIN decoding. H = large engine which in this case is the L28 (2.8 litre 6). I think this is a hangover from the S30 release which was a JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) L20 engine (2 litre 6). The HS30 was the 240z which of course has the 2.4 litre 6 installed, so that is why they put the H there. Nissan also used the H in other models different to the S30 series to denote a larger engine....confused yet? S130 = the body code which is a ZX. 220226 = the unique chassis number. Now, the only thing left that confuses the issue with the number you have posted. As you are the USA, I would expected to see a L between the H and the S130. The L means left hand drive. I'm not that hofay with ZX though, so someone please correct me if I am wrong.

Doh! If I could edit my post then I would delete it. As Tomo says, have you checked the fuses?

Contort yourself in the footwell and reach up behind the dash to unscrew the speedo cable from the back of the speedo itself. Hope you have small hands!!!!! Then disconnect it at the gear box and see if the cable is severed. Good luck.

Peter had been in the UK less than 24hours before the crash. I wonder if he had given himself enough time to get over the flight and jet lag. We'll never know now but it makes you think doesn't it. Memories of the Holden mob on the top of the mountain going mad as Peter Perfect drove to victory is etched in my memories. He remains a legend. Such a shame and waste of another great Australian.

My eldest son watches Steve EVERY night before going to bed. He is hooked on anything to do with animals and Steve had a lot to do with that. In this day and age with all the crap that surrounds our children, people like Steve are priceless. I thought he was absolutely mad, bonkers, crazy to put himself in such danger when he has a young family, but that was just Steve's way wasn't it. It's to hard to even think about what it must be like being his wife right now. The thought of that heavy loss must be crushing. I just hope the storm clouds move away quickly. So from a Keywee to Steveo.........cheers Occa and thank you.

Lookin good there Mike. Did you purchase new stainless external door trim with the rubber seal on or did you just polish the old one up and fit new rubber? Great work.....keep them pics a comin!

My dash is due to be returned from www.dashboardrestorations.co.nz It should be here next week, I'll post some pics up here. These guys have been doing zed dashes for awhile now. I have seen their work on a concours 240z here in NZ and it is excellent. Many NZ zed club members have used them before and no complaints only praise. The cost to get mine done was NZ$795 and freight. They strip the dash, remove any crap foam, insert new foam, epoxy the whole dash so it can't crack again then vacuum shrink new vinyl and fit guages. Check out Steve's website, it has a currency converter too. The only thing your American zed owners to consider is the freight issue. That will be the killer decision for you as this could nearly cost the same as the resto work.