240znz

Silly question, oh course he doesn't. That's why he posted. Come back Keith!!!!!!:classic:

You guys didn't get many of the RB series engines at all in the USA. They are absolute grunt machines that were shoved in Skylines and Laurels. RB25 is a 2.5 litre 24 valve inline 6. RB26 is a 2.6L, RB30 is a 3.0L. Engines vary with DE, DET and DETT. Not sure about standard HP but they are capable of very high HP if you want to spend the money. Drift guys here in NZ run the RB26DETT but remove the twins and install a huge single turbo. HP in these things is around the 350. From memory, drag car versions are above 700HP and reliable to. Evil evil engines.

I'm putting new rubber in all round. However I'm also after some better steering responce so I'm putting poly in both front and rear sway bars, steering coupler and rack mounts. That should give me a nice ride with good results. Yes there maybe a case to keep the steering coupler rubber but it is a easy and cheap change out if I don't like it. Yes I will also be putting in new springs and shocks to complement the setup. Worth a thought?

About time you joined in the fun Damon. Heh everyone, Damon has a rare set of L28 pushrods that he has for sale don't yah mate!!!!!! As for finding a series 1 alive in NZ these days.....good luck, I hope you find it. Even rooted ones cost $$$ as you know. You are always welcome to work on mine to practice for the big day when you get yours.

This all reads like old times guys! I'm all for people producing replacement lens. For all the right hand drive owners of 240z's, we welcome the advent of new amber lens. We need them more than you guys do. So please TIR, please Klearz, send Mike a set of your lens' and he'll sort a review so we know where to spend our money. I too have spent money with TIR. I found the product, service and packaging to be first class. I trust that his lens' will be also. Competition is a good thing isn't it. We pay enough for our beloved car parts as it is.

I've gone for stock rubber back in the suspension arms but urethane for sway bars, steering coupler and rack mounts. I'm thinking that I'll have sharper steering but a great ride. Best of both worlds.

Good luck then!

I cdnuolt blveiee taht I cluod aulaclty uesdnatnrd waht I was radnieg. The phaonmneal pweor of the hmuan mnid. Aoccdrnig to rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoatnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteer be in the rghit pclae. The rset can be a taotl mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit a porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe. Amzanig huh? Yaeh and I awlyas thought slpeling was ipmoranntt!!!! Isn't that freaky?

Hell, with the way fuel pricing is, you may want to re-evaluate your reasons for wanting to rebuild them in the first instance. You have a L24 engine with standard head and exhaust manifold? Bolting triple carbs on the car will not give you the power that you think you'll get. The engine won't draw more air as a result of individual throats either. Putting triples on would be a part of a larger upgrade for the L24. To get the real benefit of them you'll need to consider a new cam, serious head work (after all that is where all the power comes from), extractors, ignition upgrade and a brake upgrade. All that will cost you some pretty $$$$. If you are just spending money to make them a nice thing to look at them go for it. Do it and have fun with it. But for my money, I would do other things before putting my tripples on. So sorry but I don't have anything to add to what has been written above by other members other than stop. Sit down with a large coffee, pen and paper, and list out the most important things you need to do to you 240z. Your list may include points like: re-furb of the entire braking system; re-furb and possible upgrade of the suspension components; replace all old rubber suspension arm bushings with new or maybe a strategic placement of urethane and new rubber bushings; sway bars; tyres; inlet/exhaust port matching. I'd pick all the above first and foremost as there is nothing worse than going faster and not being able to handle or stop properly. Remember that the rubber in those suspension bushes are now over 30 years old......hmmmm. Sorry if I'm going off the intention of your thread but just think a bit about the car as a whole. You will see more benefit in doing the above "servicing" than just putting on triples and your wallet will be no worse off. Triples and US$70 and barrel for oil don't stay together for long. Count on paying even more for fuel as we reach for "peak flow"

Oh yes....wait for it...wait for it................tick tick tick...... I for one like the 240z just because I like the look better. I'm spoilt with the lightest Series 1. It is just the business. Nothing against the 260z, 280 or FairladyZ L20E either, I just like the 240z best that is all. In answer to the Dagma last statement...tick...tick...tick!

It's not looking good is it guys! I can see a barrel getting to US$100 and before the years out. Holden and Ford V8 new car sales have slumped here in New Zealand. Maybe we will see the end of the huge guzzelers for good? I can see the sales guys at the Toyota dealership rubbing their hands together and watching the hybrid enquires increase. I have a family wagon that gives me 730kms for 52litres. That's pretty good now days and I'm glad I got the eco engine model (1800-VVTi) I'm going to cringe once I get the 240z back on the road no doubt though...shessh!

Does anyone of our members know how to decode the date codes that are printed on the back of the guages? My series 1 has a estimated build date of Dec 70 and my guess is that the date code is 5th Dec 1970. Can anyone confirm this?

First car was a Mini Couper S ex rally car. Evil beast that was a devil to drive. Weber 45 on it with the K&N filter poking through into the cabin. SCCR box, front disks, bucket seats, harness, header, stainless exhaust, major head modifications. The car was very very quick and handled like it was on rails. Parked it downhill once and filled up the engine with fuel (gravity forced open the fuel valve in the 45...doh), drained the engine oil/petrol and noticed huge amounts of metal fillings on the sump plug magnet....double doh. Stripped engine and rebuilt. Found severe pitting on 2nd gear cog of lay shaft. Quoted 1000 pounds for new one. Triple Doh! Put everything back together and sold it. Swore never to by a British car again and have kept to it. Fancy building an engine that shares engine and gear box oil...what were they thinking! Next car was the legendary Datsun 1200 coupe......now that's a sensible first car!

Well done! Its looks a squillion dollars Ed. It is a great resto and something for all the other resto guys to aim for. Once again the bar has been raised. There's hope for us yet! I like many others, have been waiting for more pics to turn up in your gallery. Now it is finished, please keep them coming. I hope you don't mind the ocassional PM's with questions/advice.

Thanks Enrique, The paint "looks" like that red oxide paint that you apply to RSJ's. It isn't the same paint that you can see on the consol mounting bracket. Very strange it being there. I wonder if any other members noticed the same thing when they stripped their pans out????????

Bump. Anyone have any ideas on this?

Try MSA, VB and Tabco, ZBarn.

Finally got my arse into gear and working on the project again. I chipped some of the passenger side of the trans tunnel and have found some curious things. There is red oxide paint on the bare metal but only part way up. From memory, Datsun didn't apply any primers to the floors or tunnel. They just applied the tar sound absorbing mats. The link below clearly shows that the area has been sprayed before. My thoughts are that a PO has made a huge modification and stripped the body before and applied red oxide paint then replaced the tar stuff, then re-sprayed the entire car. Anybody care to shed some light? Good news is that the metal is lickable. Yippe, I was thinking the worst. http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/1122/transtunnelbaremetal0if.jpg

Nice one mate. Just the ticket for you and your car. I can still see your grin!

Each to their own, but I'd sooner spend the money on new fender emblems than spent valuable time in restoring them. As explained above, it is more likely to cost you more than a new one and to get it "right" and "period" anyway. I've purchased all new emblems for my project. I'll put them on and keep the old ones as they are rare and very hard to source. Besides, if I'm spending all this money on my new paint, any emblem resto will jump out at you like a beacon against a flawless paint job. I just couldn't bring myself to do that. Each to their own though eh! What ever tickles your fancy guys and gals.

All, My series 1 240z has had it's dash dials out at some stage. The pointers are that bright fluro orange/red paint. Is this standard on early examples? I suspect not.