240znz

Not too sure what weight you should expect when comparing Mag with Ali. But at a guess maybe 30-40%, only a guess. Real Mags = $$$$ Most wheels have identifiers on the inside of the rim. So really you need to wait to pull them off to be 100% right. There could also be a series of numbered rings that denote the production date. All that could help you out. But from what DatsunZGuy posted, you might be onto it already. Try to find an email address of someone on that site and fire away.

Might also be cheaper and a hell of a lot less hassle to take what you need to the powder coaters. Chances are they'll do a better job than you can with your "home kit". Hell, if you are doing a heap of zeds then maybe it would be worth the capital expenditure on building/buying an oven, the kits etc, but surely not for a one off resto project!

Whip one off and look closely for any distinct markings. There should be something there that was placed at the time it was poured. Also a good time to weigh them to confirm if they really are magnesium. Nice if they were!

Cheers Fred, That looks just what I'm after and I like the idea it mounting on the side. Cheers

Sweet, cheers Mike, I'll have a gander. Yep, I'm in New Zealand so the freight would be frightening. OK, so how much does a L24 engine with head weigh?

I need to build a engine stand for my L24. Has anyone got a set of plans of what I need to weld up? Cheers

Just ask nicely in a PM to the member whose gallery you found it in. He or she might email it to you. Most people don't mind. Just some, but that's OK too.

Heh guys, I am in the process of stripping my car back to bare metal and starting again with a different colour. Yes the process is expensive but what you have after it is all done is a fab car that YOU KNOW HAS BEEN THROUGH THE WRINGER in terms of doing it right. As for the colour, here in New Zealand every new vehicle has its colour recorded on the national register held by the government department. Right or wrong, anyone can simply write down the rego number (license plate #), pop down to the post office, cough up some ID and $3.50 and you'll get a history of the car, including VIN, colour, current owner and his or her address. So when you come to purchase a car, you can check that it is "what the seller says it is" over the phone by asking them to confirm the VIN and colour back to you. Good eh! My 240 has been recorded as having the colour red. It is not red but a weird shade of burgandy of some sorts. I have not been able to find any Datsun reference to it (the paint code sticker on the rad has been painted over when the rad was re-cored). In pulling this car to bits it is obvious that it has never been re-sprayed. So I'm guessing that the bloke who did the original paper work was either lazy, colour blind or was hung over. The colour isn't bad but I believe that red is the fastest colour. So I'll be going for Holden HSV red which for all you NZ and AU guys that is the evil red that all the clubsports are painted in these days...yum yum yum. So if you do it right, pick a nice colour that isn't too out there, take plenty of pictures to prove that the car was taken back to bare metal and also show all the repairs on photos, then I feel that you'll be in good shape to recoup some of the massive dollars that you would have spent getting there in the first place.

I depends on the buyer. But I would expect the re-sprayed one to be a little less but not hugely. In some cases you can increase the value. I'm not too sure how many people are fond of the shite brown colour. If you were to paint it an different Datsun colour that was available in the zed period then you could enhance your chances. I for one couldn't care less. I'm not a purist, so the colour isn't an issue. What I am more concerned about is the reason why is was painted a different colour and also what is it possibly hiding.

Yes, fibreglass is weight saving if you make it thin enough. But with thin comes flexing and with flexing comes ugly lines and horrible paint job. Just buy the fenders from Tabco (if they do them) or your local Nissan dealer if you can. As for a change in handling, I doubt you would see much if any difference. As above, if you go for fibreglass, chances are that it will be just as heavy if not heavier than steel. The best thing you can do to help your handling is to install a spoiler up front to keep the nose down at speed. For better handling look at shocks, springs, sway bar upgrade and bushes. Then rubber upgrade and never forget about the brake upgrade to. Stick to steel. They made them that way for a reason. However, if you really want light them go Carbon Fibre

No. That's just sad, really sad! Sex every time for me.....I have two zeds...does that mean I can have two women????? I'll run that past the wife in bed shall I? That = no sex at all.

I'm sorry but my thoughts on the 350z have moved back to ugly again. What were they thinking with that front!!!!! AAAAARRRRGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! What a spastic looking "carbon bonnet to make clearance for the supercharger"! Looks more like a pimple on your bonnet really.

Complete bandit!!!! What a find!!!!

Series 1 240's are easy to spot as they have two plastic vents in the hatch and the B pillar has a 240z emblem instead of the vented Z emblem that all the other models have. Series 1 240's ran from late 69 to very early 71. You are more likely to find a Series 1 dating from mid to late 70 in AU I think. Mine is HS30-00352 and has an estimated build date of 12/70 going by the engine number sequences. Above all you would be wise to choose a 240 or 260 with the least amount of rust in it. Remember that these old cars are just that and they weren't made to last 30 odd years. Rust is usually hiding somewhere and costs a lot to remove, properly!!! Get the car in the air and have a close look at it belly. Also a good thing to do is to sift through the emormous amount of information on this sites forums. Get used to the search engine here and most if not all of your queries will be answered. Also plenty of Aussie Zed owners here who you should contact to help view a car before buying. They will know where to look. A good link is http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/ Also check out the links page here. I hope you have broadband! Good luck

Not such a silly question considering that individual flat slide mukuni's are used on motorcycle engines with great results. I wonder if it has been done on a L series engine? But what a massive PITA to set up, just imagine the linkages....OMG :stupid: But as Michael says, he has twin SU's now, so he'll just use them and to hell with the exercise and self emptying of wallet.

Don't block it. From memory, K&N filter mounting plates have these holes in addition to the main throats. Not sure if they are for the inlet of air for emulsion tubes and or cold start chokes.

That is a standard place for rust to be in a S30. Mine had a tiny bubble there and after poking with a screwdriver I finally ended by grinding the entire area out as it was gone. Basically, Mr. Yamamoto at the Datsun factory was not very good at sealing that particular bit. He must have worked on the same line as plenty of examples are about with the same symtoms. Turns out that the area directly behind the TC rod is double skinned with the flange spot welded on top of the frame rail for added strength. I'll have to fabricate a replacement piece of steel and get it welded in there, so will you. I will be welding in second piece similar to what the V8 hybrid guys do for extra strength as well. It isn't probably a good idea to weld too much in as it would change the flex characteristics of the unibody though. Just enough to give it added strenght from standard. I figure that modern tyre compounds combined with lower profiles, lowering springs, the lastest in shocks will need some extra meat to hang off.

Wow, that is a comprehensive advert isn't it. A bit of marketing spin thrown in as well. It is in great condition but I reckon that the car has had a professional valet to get it gleaming as it is today. But what a great example and it would make a great driver after a little attention. I wish I lived in CA. You guys STILL get all low rust oldies!

To add to the already great replies above. Out of all the series of the 240z, the series 1 is arguably the most "collectable" version for it is the lightest and the first run ever. As Carl said, those carbs and more likely to be triple sidedrafts if there are 3. There are a few people who have made triple SU manifolds but very very few. I have triple Mukuni's on my parts car and they have SK printed foil stickers on the right hand throat. So they might be the same. The makers name will be printed on the top cover. Solex = Mukuni, the others are Dellorto and Weber. Sounds great, go for it, Zeds are wonderful cars that are very rewarding. As above, don't be fooled into thinking that cars are an investment, the amount of money you will need to feed your fever will most likely never come back. But the drive is invaluable.

Ditto, just put one drop of Locktite "Thread-locker" on the threads then nip them up. As above this is the blue locktite. Thread-locker is a great product. A quick turn and it releases everytime.

I was 1 when my 12/70 was born. Does that make me the in between in between guy.

It is easy to refurb the wiper system, just take you time and as Carl says, use Enrique's info as a reference. You may have to make up some new gaskets though for where the arm pivot brackets met the under cowl metal. Just use the old ones a pattern on some suitable rubber. I used water-proof grease on the pivots as an extra over the top extra. I don't want to have to do it again. I also pulled every link ball joint out and cleaned everything in a parts washer and then put it all back using oddles of water-proof grease. I even re-sprayed the arms with cold galv then matt black to really nail the job. Hell the more I write the more I think that I was a little keen. Yikes. While your there, check to see if you have the white foam on the underside of the outer edge of the cowl. These are there to stop vibration of the cowl at high speed. They are also very apt at holding water....and we know what forms when we have water and metal. Again use the old ones a pattern and use contact adhesive to put the new ones in. Clean that area up and re-spray the bottom of the cowl. Then you shouldn't need to get that cowl off again, or at least for another 20 years (if the wiper motor doesn't crap out that is) Hope that helps. James