240znz

26th-Z is right on the money. My drivers side wouldn't lock. So over Xmas (I was at work), I pulled the entire door to bits, window out, guides out, entire lock mechanism. Turned out that the poor old lock mechanism was crying out for a good clean. So I put the whole assembly into a parts washer (kerosene & detergents), left it on for about 4 hours. Blew it all dry with compressed air and then re-greased it. I used water-proof grease in mine. Now the lock works like new. Give it a go, it doesn't take too long to complete.

Cost him $20K to purchase it off a mate whilst smoking da gandja. No longer a mate :pirate: Got ripped off converting it for $10K Snorted another $10k up his nose after realising what a dork he'd been. :stupid: :ogre: Isn't it just amazing just what some people do with cash.....long live the veggieman.....man

Oh Man...mine is turning into a marathon. Just keep finding stuff to do...gezzzz All I have is memories of similar blasts (without the 235's). One day in the distant future I'll be happy to share my smile too. Good on ya Scott, thanks for the encouragement....oh how we need it somtimes.

I'm with MikeW. Great idea. If you were to tick a box before upload that states "I don't mind if people download this image" then the issue would go away...and fast.

Eric, Just been flicking through these posts for info on 40phh models and came across your unanswered post. From "How to modify your Nissan/Datsun OHC engine" by Frank Honsowetz on page 111. "For an initial main-jet size, start with 0.04 the size of the main venturi. Eg, if a 40mm main venturi is used, install a 1.60mm main jet, or 40x4 divided by 100 = 1.60mm For an air-correction-jet size, add 0.20 to the initial main-jet size. Eg, install a 1.80mm air jet, or 1.60mm + 0.20mm = 1.80mm" Not too sure if that helps you any? Anyway you have probably sorted it already!

What a crying shame but you are right Alfadog! I have no problem admitting that I have downloaded images from peoples galleries to my hard drive. Is that morally wrong? Have I offended anyone? I am just gathering images of Zeds that I really like. I also use these images offline when I'm stuck on some detail of my car. I'm not selling them nor am I posting them anywhere....just sorry that I'm so normal. What if the site goes tomorrow.....I'm left with zip......does that help anyone? So I guess the only way (I'm not a tecko savvy kinda guy) that I will be able to obtain images on my hard drive is to PM the owner of pic from his gallery. I'll just have to do that in future....I'm sure no one will mind. What a crying shame!

Steven, Again, great pics of your car. Funny that while I was providing an answer to a comment of one pic, that I thought "has Steven been asked if it is OK to use his gallery images?" The work you have done is first class and I'm sure that you don't mind the congrats. Regardless of whatever law exists, I like to think that as a member of this club, I would expect to be asked permission first prior to any pics from my gallery (nothing worth taking anyway) being copied to another. It's just in keeping with the atmosphere of this club. Well....I hope I didn't upset anyone....you know...its easily done these days...gezzzzzz

Just pull it, get it bead blasted and then coat it with a clear coat. It will look great. A new one will cost more

When pulling my dash out, I found out that the PO had made a half arsed attempt to fix a broken HCP. It is beyond repair. So guys, I need a new one. Looking for NOS if possible. I don't really care if it has to come from the moon....however, it need not have moon prices. :tapemouth The car is a RHD 12/70 build 240z. Not too sure if the heater controls are different from RHD to LHD....any help appreciated. Links to websites selling HCP's would be great. Cheers all, James

I'm 1/4 way stripping my 71 240z. Please realise that what you are proposing to do is a HUGE undertaking. It takes an enormous amount of time (way more than you think). As above, take loads of digital pictures and make notes as you go. And ALWAYS put bolts and screws in plastic bags and label them BEFORE you wash up. You'll rarely remember the next day what that screw was off that you found on the floor. Been there. Good idea to start by pricing up what parts you will need now. Things like all the new rubber that you'll require, new hoses, maybe new panels & also some new suspension bushings or other. I don't want to be a dream killer but it is going to cost $$$, can't help that. These cars are old and new old stuff (does that make sense?) costs $$$. Count on finding some rust in there also.....it will be hiding in there somewhere. There is nothing like the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Go for it!!!!

Cheers Andrew.

Is the 260z clock a direct replacement for the crapped out 240 one? I guess that the dims are the same but what about connectivity?

I had a Subaru Impresa WRX as a company car when I was in the UK. For those of you who don't know what that is then....wow have you been missing out. 2 litre boxer engine with big juicy turbo and full time 4WD. Before that I had a Citreon Xantia (stop laughing now!) Biggest thing I noticed about the 4WD is that the car will "push" around tight bents when driven hard. Very hard to get used to but the harder you drive them the better they are. Big difference was noticed in the wet......mega grip all the time.

And also, please tell me that Datsun used white silicon as a seam sealer in 1970. I fear that the PO has smeared the areas effected by cancer...eek

Thanks....and DOH on my part. I don't have the original jack (it came with a Nissan one) and those tool compartment covers are also gone if ever there in the first place! So the 1st pick shows two raised brackets. What fits on those? Has anyone got a pic of what these tool lids look like when attached?

Cheak out these pics of the areas behind the seats on my 12/70 build series 1 240z. Any ideas what the brackets are for and alos what are the layout pads for (little raised bits in the metal on both sides). They all have me stumped

Here is pic of what mine looks like. Build is 12/70 RHD Aussie model. As you can see, it must take some acceleration to get fuel out the vent. Must be hard to get it up over the loop wouldn't it? I guess a lot of slosh would help it. So that gets me thinking, did the fuel tanks have baffles to help reduce slosh???

Wasn't is mainly a US thing with the fitting of expansion tanks....all that emissions stuff. (makes you wonder why really when the US continues to ignore the Kyoto agreement, but I'm not going down that path again...gezzz). All the venting mine has is a single line from the tank back to the filler tube and an over flow tube running down behind the inspection panel. But I get a wiff of petrol when the tank is full and my window is down.....must have a cut vent somewhere. Anyway that is another thread and I'm sure that I've read something about it before anyway...check out the dusty archives.

Dead right Carl. My 71 doesn't have the expansion tank that your pic shows. The hose I was talking about was no.7.

You might be talking about the overflow hose (is it called that). There is a tank vent hose that connects to the filler hose. This hose runs behind the rear RHS panel, through a rubber grommet and then runs behind the rear hatch panel (that covers the tail lights), about 1/4 a way along in dives down though the deck and onto the tank as a vent. I'll post some pics tonight as that area is exposed on my 71 right now.

I'm a NZCE electronics engineer who has nothing to do with electronics anymore. Currently I convert matter to anti-matter, in much the same way Spock did it. In my spare time (9-5) I work designing electronic surveillance systems.....unlike Ed, I keep them out once they've got in!

Yeah, that is nuts! What about cleaning up the old hoses as best you can then applying some black shoe polish? Will boot polish last? What's the best way to get these things back to life? And sorry but I should know this but what does NOS mean? Nissan Original Spec?