240znz

Please tell us you are joking. I do hope you aren't considering using pop rivets.

Like anything, if you don't have the skills and you want a good job, hire a pro. A good panel guy will have them fitting great in no time.

Yep, that was the first think that jumped out at me. Are you sure that this a "Series 1" ? Didn't they all have the diffs mounted in the flawed location?

eek....I take it all back. That thread must be an interesting read, off to find it.

Yep, you got right. The new rubber is very pliable, so the install is easy. Yeah, best to check all part sources for pricing prior to ordering. It is cheaper for me to buy parts in the US and ship them half way around the planet than buying through our local Nissan ripoff merchant.

If they were engraved, then the spacing and alignment would be perfect. If they were engraved, then you'd be hard pressed to sand them out without having to bog the metal up to get that panel flat again. I'd say they were all stamped. Once you get most of the paint out (maybe using a scribe or something similar), use the old pre-school method of tracing paper and a crayon and see what rubs through. First thing you should ever check on a car is the VIN stamp on the firewall, if it looks anything but standard, loud ringing bells should be heard in your head.

Yep, done this also. But I got my new tank filler tube from Courtesy Nissan as they were more cost effective than MSA even with the club discount applied. As the clamp that holds the rubber grommet in place around the filler tube is exposed, I used stainless cap screws to secure the plate. Cost of 3x M4 cap screws and spring washers is minimal.

An alternative to using dry ice is to use a heat gun to soften the sound deadener then use a narrow bladed knife to lift it up. Clean the remaining off with turps. I did my entire floors like this and although it took a while, it was very effective.

If you don't want to buy a suitable die, just run the thread through a new nut. Most of the paint should come off, if not soak it in thinners and try again. For what you are doing, it would be a lot quicker. Or as above, change to stainless would be probably more cost effective also.

Hey Brent, It would be very difficult to get good coverage of POR15 inside the frame rails. As others have said, there will be all sorts of crap in there. While POR15 is a fantasic product, I don't think it is the choice for this application. My car has had carefully placed 20mm holes drilled through into the frame cavity from the foot wells. This gives excellent access to the inner frame rail. The panel shop that did the work had a purpose build 1.5metre long flexible spray nozzle that fitted onto a standard spray gun. I filled it will fisholine and did the rails and the entire car. Fish oil dripped everywhere for days (yes days). It got everywhere. You can get low odour stuff now so it doesn't stink too much. It semi dries to a tacky state. I'l planning on doing the frame rails every 5 years to minimise the inside out rust monster. Just a suggestion. Cheers James

I think it is intended as a shell for a rally car only. As it is, it wouldn't be any good as a road car unless you put a full cage in it to stiffen it. I for one wouldn't want to drive in that without some protection. Interesting that someone thinks that there is enough of a market to warrant the work on the moulds alone. I wonder how many they'd need to sell to make a profit. Interesting thread.

Another temporary human being right there folks. Racing is on the track only. Roads are for driving. This probably isn't the best site for you to ask these questions is it?

Mine is also Porche Guards Red and it is a bright red, sunglasses help. Love the colour but not the cost of it. Here's the pick that made my mind up. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=5481 Don't rely on computer monitors to make your mind up on a colour as they are all different colour temperatures etc. Make a short list and make contact with car clubs in your area and go and see the cars in the sunlight/shade/night. Only way to make up your mind IMO.

OMG. I've been here over 8 years and still my car isn't finished. No thanks for the reminder.

Early HS30's had only one vent from the tank to the filler hose. It is there to provide a means for the air in the tank to vent out when fuel displaces it. So I guess you can reduce it to only this if you need to. Just make sure you use fuel rated hose as the fuel vapour eats rubber. Plus with hard cornering I'd guess that fuel would enter some portion of the vent hose. It has a 90 degree bend to get past first but if it can, it will.

You'll get plenty of opinions on carbs versus injection. Both have merits and both have issues. My first Datsun was a 1200 (B110). I'm not wanting to kill your dream but the 1200 is an ideal first car as it is simple to work on and they can the thrashed all day long without worry plus parts aren't expensive. You'd be shocked as to how easy they are to tweak into a great handling car. Power is down but you may not be ready for an injected L28, nor are you ready for the hole it will burn in your wallet everytime you need to fill up. Have you thought about a Datsun 1600 (510)? Half way between the 1200 and the 240z. The 510's and early zeds run the L gata engine. The 510 uses the L16 and the 240z the L24, 260z the L26 and the 280z/zx the L28. So working on a L16 is much like working on a zed engine but it has two less cylinders. Handling is very good. Save as much money as you can to buy the best example zed you can find.....or buy a smaller car to cut your teeth on. That's my Datsun opinion. James

You could use just a scraper to get it off but it comes off a lot easier if you use a heat gun or even better with a gas torch just to warm it up. Then get the remaining residue media blasted. Just make sure you work in a very well ventilated area as the fumes could be an issue.

I'll chime in and reiterate that you need to really look hard for rust. It's had a biff in the arse as you can see that the hatch doesn't line up correctly and the bumper is twisted. Your mechanic mates will spot the rust for you if they are any good. It looks like a quick respray to me as they didn't bother to remove nor even mask the engine bay brake lines prior. Hmmm, what is that paint hiding. Sorry to be a skeptic but there are so many "great looking cars with minimal rust" that are in fact rust buckets. It would be wise to ensure that YOU get it up on a hoist so your mechanic mates and you can have a good dig at what's underneath. Above all, buy with your brain and not your heart. Good luck with the appraisal. James

Mine was the same. Just clean it as best you can either by media blasting or key it then hit it with a rattle can of black. I put down a zinc undercoat as I had to go back to metal as surface rust was forming. Results are great. If you want to get the flaps out then I guess the pins are pressed in or peened over (can't recall). Maybe try a slim hole punch are carefully tap and see if they move.

Mine used to pop out of fifth when under power. If I just cruised in fifth no worries. Took the box in to a good shop and it turned out to be worn dog teeth on the fifth syncro. Had a box of other gearbox bits out of the parts car so it was an easy fix. So just take it in and get it looked at my a pro.

How about a 7.91 @ 176mph. http://www.fullboost.com.au/forum/showthread.php?p=43007 A 240z with a RB30 and a rather large hairdryer attachement. But not all New Zealanders are as crazy as this...I think.

Hard disk magnets are very strong, thin, already have mounting points and could make a good alternative. But I'd prefer to use a machine screw into an embedded nut with a threadlocker. You don't want that thing coming off as it could do some serious harm to people behind you.

You may now have a case of "where do I stop". Good luck with it.

1. HS30-00352 finished 2. McLaren M8B 3. Lola Frisbee 4. Skyway with a L28 5. Audi S8 I'm not fussy.

Just stretch a rag out and slide it under the window crank handle and try to pull the rag through. This will remove the clip so easily that you'll wonder why it was so hard in the first place. To put it back on, insert the clip in its final position and push the handle on until you hear a click.