240znz

Murphys Law at work. Went the panel shop yesterday for a catch up and to tell him to expect it back for final panel assembly and paint in Jan. While there, he said "Oh, found a box that I think might be yours". Guess what I found. All the missing rubber insulators and brackets. Bastard. Too late, nevermind. I now have spares....schesh.

1 x Rostisorie with a 240z on it 1 x Paper Tiger 14" plywood catamaran in primer 1 x pissed off wife (not in garage)

What is the correct stock petrol tank paint finish? Gloss, satin or flat?

Keep us posted to what you are upto. There are many of us who have/are rebuilding these "diamonds in the rough". They take time, so don't worry if it takes a while. Remember to do it once, do it right! That red is a Porsche colour called Guards Red. Mine is that colour too. If there was ever a none stock red to paint a zed, this is it.

Just take off the old hard lines and drop them into a brake specialist. They will be able to bend you up a new set in very little time.

Reports here were that the IOC told China not to tell them that they had spent on the games for fear of scarying off future potential games hosts. Have a look at the international broadcast centre, its almost twice as big as the water cube. Is Phelps the greatest ever Olympian??? Well, impossible to compare now isn't it. But one thing is for sure, Mark Spitz won 7 medals while donning speedos and a Magnum PI moustash (drag co. of 5878657) I'd like to see limits placed on the technologies on Olympic sports. It seems to becoming like the America's Cup, those with the most money to afford the research has an advantage. Look how many world records have been broken in the pool and by my how much. Insane. How much is it to do with the new suits is it? Can't judge that. But why not just introduce a standard suit, in the same way that sailing has Olympic class yachts. Maybe I'm being a bit harsh, but what ever happened to fair competition. At least New Zealand won gold in events other than sitting down and/or going backwards this time. I think we are no.2 on the medal table for "per capita"

That is a dead duck. "His Holeness" my (now cut up) 73 parts car from the Solomons was in better shape than that. But there are bits on it that are worth money. The body on my car was bad and cost more than $15K to get to the stage it is in. But compared to that, mine was mint. I wouldn't even consider it for a rebuild as it's too far gone and not really of any historical value. What it would make is a good candiate for someone wanting to convert a LHD to RHD. But I'd say that the firewall will be shot by the looks of the amount on pine needles in the photos. Bumpers, glass, window regulators, hand throttle, carbs, plastic, struts, all the bits required for a LHD conversion. But what is it worth??? No more than $800~1000. Phone up your local scrape metal dealer and ask what they will give you for the shell, over here we are getting money for old shells the price of steel has doubled. We used to have to pay them to take them away. I'll buy the left hand rear bumper extension off you if you get it and want to part with it. Plus a door hinge spring.

If you aren't concerned about matching numbers, then you may as well put a L28 in there. Most of the power is in the head development alone. A wee bit of chamber work to let it flow a bit better is all you need for a street motor, that combined with bigger valves and some mild porting to the inlets. Some 44's or 45's would be good for you. I know nothing about ignition systems yet sorry. Mine is not at that stage.

Drivers door hinges are shot. So I have purchased two hinge pin and bush kits from my local Nissan ripoff and about to install when I noticed that the spring has gone. I'm sure it was there when it was at the body shop but no chance of finding it there now. Yes I have a parts car but I stripped the doors and chucked the hinges out. Hindsight is a wonderful thing...I know...I know. So if you have an old crapper that you don't mind losing a spring off, let me know.

I had mine sand blasted and the results were good. Roof was stripped chemically. But you could consider plasma cutting those sections that you'll be replacing before you blast. That way you can see what's behind and get that sorted while your at it. It is also very important to get rid of all the excess sand. Sand will collect in the foot well fresh air vent cavity (both ends). You may find that a small section of garden hose (200mm) duct taped to a vacuum cleaner will help get it out. I used several different diameters to get unto all (I hope) of the cavities. Ugly rust monster likes sand filled nooks and crannies. But more imporantly, you will need to seal the car ASAP after blasting.

Nice work Ron, Like the dark glass tint which the painted wiper arms compliment.

I'd say that it's a modified MSA one. Wouldn't be hard to to. Measure, cut, and fibreglass the tubes in, fill, prime and paint. I doubt that they'd give you much air flow to cool the brakes if that is your intention. If that is what you want, then open the up to form a funnel type entry.

Yes please, I too would be very interested in a diagram. I've got a set of 44's to go on mine.

40PHH has 165 stamped butterflies. 44PHH has 175 stamped butterflies.

Just measure the throat of the carb. Or if they are off the car, look at the back of the butterfly and you'll see a number stamped. Post the number and we'll tell you what size the carbs are. I don't have the info to hand sorry. Carbs are at home.

Nissan have an aluminum V8 that would fit. Yes, Hyridz is a good place for you to visit.

I thought the same thing when I first looked under my car. Easily done. By the looks of the surface rust, the rear end may benefit from dropping and overhauling anyway. I'd be also thinking about a rear sway bar to compliment the new urethane, springs and shocks that you may add. Price it up, and budget for the change. You can do all of it yourself, but hire or borrow a spindle pin puller to save yourself the grief. Just a thought. You won't regret it.

If you want it to be original, then buy some bitumen based sound deadener, make a pattern out or paper, trace, cut, lay then heat it a tad with a heat gun to make it easier to mould into the folds etc. Then you will need to prime it several times to stop the bitumen bleeding through the top coat. If you aren't concerned about originality, then any sound deadener will do. But for me, I doubt that that area will have much of a drum effect. I'm just going to cut some jute to fit, secure the spare. That's it. Once the deck jute and carpet are in place, I doubt you'd know the difference.

Wipers being slow is probably because the wiper pivot rubber boot is gone. Water enters and causes the pivot to corrode and bind. It will need removing, cleaning, greasing and new rubber boots. Cost is only in boots ($5), removing the wiper arms is a small PITA.

Put me down for a set.

Aren't they the matter and anti matter converters???? Get yourself a workshop manual and have a good read.

"240z" and "towing" should never be in the same sentance...ever.

Unlikey but you could always do something like, drain the diff oil and refill, drive it and listen for the clunk. Clunk is normally attributed to either a faulty diff mount insulator, arrestor strap, half shaft or drive shaft universal joint and or a combination of all.

Let me tell that replacing the brake lines is a PITA. You need the right tools for the job and plenty of tube as you are bound to **** things up if you haven't done it before. While your there you may as well replace the fuel feed and return. You may find that the rubber insulators are beyond recoverability and you'll need to make new ones. Avoid it unless you really really have to is the advise from me.

It is so great to watch the progress you are making. I have no doubt that it will be stunning when finished. Looks like the ugly rust monster has eaten through the lower sill section as well. I know it's not concourse but it would be wise to extend the cowl drain hose down to avoid the issue in future. I have brushed that area with copious amounts of fisholine in an attempt to prevent it happening again to mine. Make sure you make new cowl drain hoses as they perish and split causing water to drip into the footwell, behind the firewall jute and under the carpet jute as well...nasty. I think Enrique posted his mods in a thread a few years ago. If you search for it you will find some sound advise. Keep them pics a coming.