Everything posted by 240znz
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FOUND - window roller????
Whilst removing the RHS door panel to get at the broken( :tapemouth :mad: ) door handle (my fault..arrrrggghhhh), I noticed that in the bottom of the cavity, a rubber roller was sitting there loose. It must go somewhere, but I don't fancy pulling the window completely out just to find out that I could have put it back without going to all that trouble. Any ideas of where it is soposed to go???? Can I get it back without removing the entire mechanisium? Cheers
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Water leak at no. 6
Finally got around to doing a compression test tonight. The results were 1-6: 130;125;130;125;120;125. I thought this was OK but I was expecting a little higher in the 170's-80's. Then I read the manual and it says that I should have done this with the engine hot. DOH! Engine cranker has gone to bed so it'll have to wait until tomorrow. But the readings are 95% of each other so it can't be all that bad. It does suggest that the PO did do a rebuild. So I'm hoping that the readings will come up tomorrow or I will have other things to consider, like did the PO really rebuild this engine? If he did then why does it have a low compression with new rings??? It does have a chunky ground cam in there though...maybe that has something to do with it. It is a L24 block running a E88 head. The PO told me that the head had been shaved but I don't recall by how much, so I am thinking that the combo of the two might result in a lower compression. Still no more leaks. Rad level remains unchanged. Oil levels also remain unchanged. Any ideas? Should I be checking else where?
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240z Body Trouble
My advise would to take a terminal screwdriver or something with a fine pointed tip and start poking around the places that 2manyz's has stated above. It is amazing how much rust can be hiding behind a postage stamp size bubble of rust. After you have identified all the rust locations, make a list and price the parts, add labour and then reach for the phone to book your heart bypass. No one wants to see a Zed on the junkyard but sometimes the cost of removing all the rust is more than the cost of a rust free one to start with. I don't want to kill any ideas that you may have of rebuilding your Zed but maybe do the sums before you start. If you did decide that the car was too far gone to restore, then you will have a parts car for that rust free Zed you'll be getting next. I have a 71 series 1 Zed and it minimal rust in all the hard to find/get places. I am commited to removing ALL of it and ready for the cost. I am also trying to keep it on the road as much as possible while I restore it...this is the hard bit.
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Parts Score!
I have a hand throttle in my Zed. It was imported to NZ from Aussie. It is not connected and by no means will I re-connect it. It must the the single most dangerous device ever put in the Zed (except for the wife after she finds out much this thing has cost me...er...us). MDBrandy - your avatar shows some nice wheels...what are they?
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p90a head on l24 block?
Iy will fit but I'm unsure that the compression ratio will be what you are after. There is a link to a compression program somewhere on this site. Try doing a search function above....or maybe someone could place the link on a reply. For memory the P90a was used on turbo L28 ZX's of 83. So it is my guess that the compression ratio will be low.
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Aussie owners "panels"
Welcome to the world of Zed. You are in very small group of yonger drivers whom have seen the light and purchased an early series Zed. Most front panels are available, however parts of the "rear end" of the Zed's are not...only a few rust prone areas like rear deck lid. I live in NZ and I don't know of any Aus suppliers that can help. This site has many Aus Zed owners so I'm sure that they can help you. I do know that a company in the US called Victoria British may have what you need. You'll find them at www.victoriabritish.com The site it not all that but order a free catalog and you will see that they do have lower rear quarter panels and inner rear wheel arch panels to. Good luck and try to stop smiling when your in 3rd at 3500 RPM...go-on...just try.
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Trying to trace footwell water leak
Cheers 240Z in OZ... It WAS the airgrill drain hose. After I took off the LHS guard, I noticed that the drain hose was split. No a silly question....can you get new hoses from somwhere? Cheers and remember.......
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LHS underfender rail rust
Spotted a small bubble in the underseal on the LHS chassis under the wheel arch. Just behind the TC rod connection. Poked at it with a screwdriver with a nervous push and horror....through it went....into stale air. So after removing the guard it gain real access, I poked some more. There is what seems to be a factory strenghting plate there (maybe there to strenghten the TC rod mount??). The reason I say factory is that the whole area shows no signs of damage, the paint is matched and the underseal has not been touched. It was spot welded on and then underseal sprayed over it, got out the wire wheel to clean it up and IT turned up just fine, but it had holes in it. Anyway, I have removed all the plate as under it the metal was micro thin. I now will have a easy patch to put back in there but I put a double plate back in to be double sure. Looking down the exposed inside of the chassis rail, I see fisholine everywhere with great looking metal. I also see a opaque (probably clear when new) plastic bung on the pasenger fire wall. Pulling up the carpet I see it there and wonder if it is also a factory standard item to inspect the chassis rail internals or a PO add on? Any ideas. The whole area would have been rust free if at the factory they had not rushed to spot this plate in. There was a slight ripple in the front of the plate that water entered, and tracked down the panel to eat away merrily. So....check your Zed to see if you have the same little problem. So I'm going to POR the entire internal rail before and after the plates are back in. The resto remains.
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Under airgrill rust
Pulling my Zed to bits and finding hidden places where the rust monster is hiding. Impossible to spot when I first looked at the car as you will read. Took off the airgrill panel and found some surface rust in only two spots. While there are lavish amounts of Fisholine used, it appears that it is not enough....or is the rust caused by a PO additon. Did the factory install some white (off white now) foam cushioning to the underside of the airgrill, directly in front of the drivers wiper pivot? (Sorry, but my digital camera is out again.*&^"£$^%!) I have killed it but just wondering if this foam is standard. BTW, I have cleaned all the fisholine off and wow....as good as new, I'll be re-applying that good old fish oil again...unless someone can suggest a better solution. Cheers
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newbie wanting general info?
Lightest cars made were the first 12000 out of the factory. Hard to find one but they do come up from time to time if you look hard. They also were the best at rusting (I know, I have one). I think weight was around 2000lbs. US laws just kept adding weight and thus slowed them down...until the turbos thurned up, however they did get kinda ugly there for a while to. Can't beat the classic lines of the 240Z's. If all out speed is you thing then either put in V8 or a Nissan GTR- RB26DETT engine. The RB26DETT is a 2.6litre twin turbo injected straight 6. Might be a little hard to find one in the states though. There are a few members here who have converter the L series to the RB. Just type in RB into the search function.
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question about my rear end
I think 280ZX fever was referring to the title o fthe post. "Question about my rear end" In Aus/NZ we call your "rear end" an "arse" So...a question about your arse eh? I see 280ZX fevers point...maybe better in the funnybone section. HEHEHEHEHEHE So sorry, I don't have any knowledge about the diff area in the 240 so I'll leave that to someone who does. But a good question is at what speed do you hear the whine....70mph?
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Help?
CZCar, Sounds as though the line you have on those 2 HS30's might be the same as I had a nibble at. Might be wrong but here goes. I placed a wanted ad on T&E website. The guy said that one is RED. Has number plate of REDZED. It failed a warrant sometime this year due to rust. The engine in it came from the rolling shell he also has for sale. Rolling chassis has all the body parts/nuts/bolts/everything labelled up in bags and also on excel format files. He told me he was offered $10K when the red zed had a warrant. He said to me that he was going to email me some pics (as I am in CHCH), but never did. Strange that this guy replied to my ad but didn't follow it up...I wonder why. So.....for a mint "RUSTLESS" shell with full inventory and a rusty parts car with original engine and box from the shell car......he only wants $100's....then jump at it from a 10 story building...that is the bargin of the century. Me...I wanted a car that I could drive while restoring. I find that I lose the faith if the car is off the road for too long. No I have a running Zed that keeps my fever down. Go for it, or at least if you don't want it then I'll grab it for parts. Let me know.
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Water leak at no. 6
Spark plug looks great. No water in the engine oil. I'll do a compression test tomorrow. Weird. Maybe as you suggest Keith. Don't really want to rip the head off but it might just have to be. Should I retorque when hot or cold?
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101_0132
Looks like the same colour as mine. What is the paint code. This can be found on the radiator label.
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Water leak at no. 6
I always check out the Zed before taking it for a spin. Noticed last weekend that the block has rusty water stain on the left hand side (LHS). Traced it to the back of the head, right behind no6 cylinder. Then noticed that the stain is on the RHS of the block as well but not as much. Check rad for water and......heart lept out and stopped for the 5 seconds......CRAP....it was dry. I put 1.5 litres in it to get it up to level. Started it up and a very small trickle emerged on the LHS. Let it warm up and checked again....nothing....dry...no leak.....hmmmmmm. Took it for a mild drive, stopping and checking LHS every so often. Dry each time and also RHS. It could still have a leak and the heat of the block will be evaporating instantly. Checked levels today and all OK. Did exactly what I did last week in checking after start-up and when warm but no leak. Rad level still OK. Cleaned all the rusty trails off and took for another drive. Zip...no new trails....what the? Rad level OK after the run too. I was thinking of re-torqing the head as the PO has rebuilt this engine some 1500 miles ago. Head as been shaved and it was a lumpy cam in there also. Any ideas? I have a new head gasket and I'm thinking of pulling the head to make sure that it isn't serious....last thing I need is a warped head. Your input/ideas/help is appreciated.
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78 280 help..ALAN?
Gidday Ivan, The cars where in Danniverke (sp?). The 280 woth L28 was black and the 280 with L20...don't know. From memory it was a parts car. He wanted $1500 for the L28 and the L20 was free. My thoughts also where that it was a ZX not a Z. Any news on the Aussie move? Hows that beast? James
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the front air dam
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Hatch Vents leaking water?
I have battles with my PC and digital camera at the moment...I'll post some pics as soon as I can. Where in Hants are you? I used to live in Crookham Village near Fleet. Aren't Portmouth doing well!
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Triple 45mm Webers on L28 ?
Once you get your 240, swap the L28 into your 240 less the injection and there you have an extra 30BHP just like that. Keep the ignition and maybe rejet the SU's. Nice drive then.
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What motor is this?
280ZX Fever, The P30 that the guys are stating refers to the type of block that the L series engine has. Check out a good Zed website for the differences at http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html
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Hatch Vents leaking water?
Thanks Abas...I'll add this to the ever growing list of "Oh my God...give myself plenty of time to sort that out" jobs that are ever mounting up. When I got my Zed the rhs rear hatch grill was in the glove box with no possible way of mounting it (broken). My guess is that it must have some sort of pin to attach it to the hatch. The 2 screws that unscrew from the hatch have a hole in the middle of them. My guess it that the grill has 2 plastic pins that fit into these screw holes and that's it. I'll RTV the grill back infor now and wait until I have reason to fix it for good....probably when it gets new paint.
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Triple 45mm Webers on L28 ?
If you are looking to go and build an all out race engine then you will need 45's in there as you will be pulling high rpm. So after all your cam, head, ignition and exhaust mods you will need to go to 45's. No they won't go out of tune every week but you may notice a change in atmospheric conditions can effect your tuning. Hot day vs cold day, altitude does make some differences also on jetting sizes. Classic case for atmospheric changes happened to me when I was racing a 125cc Kart in New Zealand. I bought the Kart in one city and then moved to another. When I first used it in the new city, it would flood on tight hairpins. Turned out that the main jet was too big by a knats gonad and that was all due to the fact the air was less dence (humid). Popped in the next size down and what a difference. The jet size change was minimal. Yes a small change but it didn't half kill any slim chance I had of be competitive. For what you will be spending on buying and setting up triples properly, you might well be better to invest in a upgrade ECU for your existing injection. You will get better daily driver use. Maybe even get a ZX turbo engine in there and really notice the difference. Triples aren't cheap. Good luck :classic:
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Triple 45mm Webers on L28 ?
45's will be a little big for a standard L28. You would be better of putting a set of 40's on there. You will notice a difference in gas mileage and noise (lovely "gorp" induction tones) if you do choose to go with triples. However, if you have a wild L28 then absolutely put them on. I still think you are better keeping the EFI as starting triples in the middle of winter can be a PITA. Once you have set the 45's up then they shouldn't go out of tune too much. To get them setup properly you should really put the car on a dyno to find out the best jetting combo. Maybe someone here has already used 45's on a L28 and can give you a head start. Good luck
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Hatch Vents leaking water?
I've tried to get mine off but stopped as it got a wee bit hard. One grill is broken off my Zed (still have it), so I don't know how to take off the other grill.....any ideas? I too have taken off the inner cover (those plastic rivets are a PITA aren't they) and looked at taking the pockets out. Mine are held in but a still soft black sealant. I'm guessing that that is all they are held in by...just lined up. If anyone knows if this is wrong then please post it as I don't want to break an already UV brittle pocket. Is there any new ones available???
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Has anybody had a look at this one?
My advise to you when buying a ZED is to see it for yourself in the flesh before parting with any money. Zed's rust and although this car is from Southern California you still won't be sure it's totally rust free unless you use YOUR eyes. Replacing parts in these cars can add up very quickly and with it does the price. Good luck and if you can talk to the seller before bidding then all the better.