240znz

I got all the bolts, washers, screws, hose clips and various other bits back from the platers and the results are amazing. However, I did a lot of prep. The more you do the better they will turn out. My process. 1. Gave them all a soak in the parts cleaner. Kerosene and solvent. 2. Removed surface rust and remaining dirt with a bench grinder mounted wire wheel 3. Treated any hard to get to rusty parts with rust killer and used a tiny wire brush to get it in. 4. Gave them to my local Datsun club "good bastard" who works at the platers. 5. He wasn't happy with how some of them turned out so he re-plated those. Good luck. James

Solved.

I changed from some directional tyres to normal once and the car became very light at over 65mph. I put the old tyres back on and problem when away. Just the tyre choice I made and yes they were cheap.

I made a blunder in that I didn't record which bolt goes where on the rear diff hangers. I now have all the bolts back from replating I'm looking to install the rear diff mount back in soon. But I really do need to be sure that the right bolt goes back in the right hole. It's a "I may as well as I've gotten this far" type of thing. So can someone crawl under a car and let me know what number is stamped on the bolts that secure the hanger to the body. Also is there a flat and spring washer. Also ID the bolts that secure the inner A frame axles. Front and rear end please. It's been a while. Cheers James ps, hope whoever's image I used is OK with me using it.

I took a box of every hose clamp, shims, nuts, bolts and cleaned them up with a wire wheel. Dropped them off at the local platers and they came back 3 days later in amazing condition. All that for around US$25. It did help that the guy working the bath was a fellow Datsun owner. He went the extra mile. Magic.

a 1jz in a low vin HLS30 = it will hate you. Please keep it Nissan. Plenty of pics is the key. Post them up and let us at them. If you are able, get it up in the air and get pics of the pans and rails.

Nice video. At rally sprints, we used to put a professional SONY broadcast cam and Fujinon lens about a foot behind one of the rear wheels at the start of the gravel hill climb. It made for some fantastic television as you can imagine. To stop tens of thousands of dollars worth of damage, we built a frame with a slot in front which new thick lexan was dropped into. The frame was out of shot. Cost about $10 a start....one of the cheapest TV effects of the day.

Like it yes, would I buy one of I had the money and wanted a 2 seater sports, no. But a way lot better than the 350z was. Can't wait to see what the Japanese tuning houses will do to them.

Wrong, next step is to stop and order the DVD from Z Therapy and learn how to sort out these carbs.

Welcome to the club Nate. You are hearing the common theme of yes it is recoverable no matter what the damage. It is a difficult decision to make. Take your time, be realisitic as you can. I suggest that you ask for some help in assessing the state of your shell now before you start making decisions. I'm sure that there is someone in this club local to you who could be asked to have a look through it for you. Although you can read as much as you like, it's my opinion that only after pulling a S30 completely to bits, do you gain enough knowledge on what to really look for. Above all, look the car as a whole in conjunction with what you want to end up with. A nice daily driver, a weekend fun car, a pride and joy that was many rebuilt parts, a period correct rebuild. There are many other catagories that you could think of too. A word of warning. As it is a low VIN and could be missing parts, you may find it very difficult or cost preventative to replace them. Have a look and work out what you do and don't have. All the best and try to post up some pics soon for us to oggle at.

It will be the same starter I suspect as a left hook 280zx.

41 I am. Saw first zed when about 11ish I guess. Thought is was one of the coolest cars and as it was owned by our neighbour, I got to hear it heaps. Never got a ride in it but peering through the hatch at the centre gauges is burnt into the mind.

The NISSAN factory triple fuel rail does not have a return. I have run new lines anyway but will just block off the return at the frame rail so that I can run the original carbs if I get sick of the 44phh's...fat chance.

It should have a badge on the back with Nissan Fairlady280Z. It is what we all call a ZX. There are plenty of ZX's in New Zealand as the government of the day deregulated the car industry which allowed cheap JDM imports into NZ. So we have a mix of NZ new and JDM here, not sure how many differences there are but I bet there are a heap. If you need any bits, you could try Dave at Zparts Auto Ltd in Auckland. His email is z-mann@ihug.co.nz. He has new and used parts for all zeds. http://www.angelfire.com/nf/zcars/ Good luck

Prolapsed disks take time to heal. My wife Amanda prolasped one in her neck before Christmas and still is recovering. The specialist said "be at ease with your body" which is the best advise. That means take it easy, no lifting of any kind for the next month at a minimum. Take some votarin or stronger for a week only as the swelling will be gone after a week and after that they are just pain killers, so move to paracetomol. Amanda has a CT scan and it showed up very well that her disk had burst and leaked fluid. Somehow the body repairs that damage by itself 99.5% of the time. So far she has been lucky. I hope you are too. You do not want surgery if you can avoid it. Pity you don't live here. We have a great health care system. All treatment was free apart from the first doc appoinment which was about US$10. So that is all drugs, CT scan, four specialist appointments, physio therapy and home help once a week to do ironing, cleaning etc. Plus the occupational health service went to Amanda's work place to see what the hospital (she's a nurse in angioplasty) could do to help her get back to work. They have purchased light weight lead and lower tables for her. Oh and she was off work for 2 months on sick leave on full pay. Not bad for 4 million people.

The rebuild of my 240z saw the entire underside of the car stripped by using a torch and scrapper. Then sand blasted, rustphos, etch primer, stone chip protective paint (leaves a texture), primer and body colour. Wheel wells got the same treatment but double the stone chip paint as did the petrol tank.

Had the same exact issue on my firewall. Body shop fabricated a patch and welded it in and applied plenty of modern seam sealer to the inside of the cowl. Trust me here, getting the sealer in is a PITA. Big cracked Kiwi hands are no match for small japanese hands for getting into tight places.

Easy, you caught the Zed illness that so far has no cure. Good luck with the fever that normally follows within a few days of diagnosis. We all share your pain but we offer no sympathy.

There is a small internal steel bracket that transfers some of the load to the oposite side of the frame rail. You should get you body guy to carefully cut away the rotten section till he finds good steel, then weld in a patch. I'd be getting him to fabricate a patch first, drill the holes, fix it to the internal bracket and then weld it all up, grind is back smooth and then it will be in the right place. Just a thought.

You need a larger master brake cylinder as you are pushing more fluid with the larger pots. If you have access to the stock drums, it might be easier to convert it back as rear brakes are there really only to stop the rear from drifting. Unless you are all out racing, not sure if the conversion is worth it in the first place.

I would recommend Autosol as a good polish for all metals.

Congratulations on the safe arrival.

No need to buy new trim. You US guys are lucky that there are plenty of wreaked HLS30's in junk yards. As the trim is made from stainless steel, all you need to do is find an old set, remove them with a razor blade and take to them with your favourite metal polish. They will look like new at a fraction of the price of a new set (if they are available).

Noooooo, please don't hack a gigantic sunroof in the poor thing. The roof is an important part of the cars strength being of a unibody design. Put some after market AC in it then at least you'll keep cool.

1. Put the striker on with the top screw only. 2. Slip the spacer behind the striker. 3. Line the springy thingy up on top of the lower two holes of the striker. 4. Insert the two lower screws and tighten. You'll notice that the springy thingy has a spacer spot welded on the back.