Virto

Lets just make sure we all remember WHY we rebelled, and never forget those freedoms laid upon us by those who fought for something better. Americans have had thier freedoms squeezed and contorted lately, and it goes largely unchallenged. The latest attempt was a flag burning ban...and while it pains me to see the flag burned in protest or hatred, as an American I WILL support every other American's RIGHT to burn that flag. Thank you to our troops, from now and then, who have fought, struggled and died for our basic freedoms. Lets hope we can get some leadership that helps preserve those freedoms that countless men and women thought they needed to DIE to protect. Happy Independence Day, America.

I'd just rock the car. I know when you rock my 280, you can hear gas slosh around, even if there's less than a gallon in there. The sloshing sound becomes pretty pronounced if there's a lot of gas in the tank. Sombody could have dumped a ton of sugar in the tank I suppose. It doesn't dissolve in cold gas, and the mythbusters determined it isn't enough to stop a car from working just fine.

A/C too. Wish my Z had been free.

My 280Z doesn't have that kind of covering, although my floors were replaced by the PO. I know a similar coating was applied to the floors of the Datsun Roadsters, so it might very well be factory.

Sounds like a fun time under the dash. Glad you got it sorted. My car HAD A/C, but it's pretty much all in a box now. I'm not interested in fixing it simply because the car desn't get enough use (hence the fact that it's sitting with locked rear brakes), but it's excellent that you got yours running.

It's only good to 120 degrees too. Makes me wonder if it can stand up to a baking hot summer day in the sun.

Well you're in a good place to start. You could have any number of problems, from bad fuel, clogs in the fuel lines, bad injectors, bad plugs, bad wires, an off or damaged dizzy...the list goes on. You might want to run a search on "stalling" or similar problems. If you can't find anything there, create a new thread in HELP ME and the good folks will help you sort it out.

Mine is currently owned by a cadre of spiders which are apparently better organized than the US military. That's a good long sit it's had, so chances are you'll have to do some dismantleing of the drivetrain.

Maybe if they were just barely rusted together...how long did the car sit since it last was driven? Chances are the rust is severe (or there's another problem) and you'll have to drop the transmission to see what needs to be done. If you've got the pedal to the floor and crank the engine, if the car jumps, the two are probably rusted together.

Like you can't even move the gear lever? Clutch or otherwise, you should still be able to slamshift the car into gear, not that it's healthy for it. You might be looking more at transmission trouble rather than clutch problems.

Looks nice, welcome aboard.

The only limited edition I know of in 1980 was the 10th Anniversary ZX, usually referred to as "Black Gold" due to it's paint scheme. There came almost entirely optioned out (so lavishly appointed, there are virtually NO options, was the ad-speak). Another, much less common anniversary color scheme was available, black and red. There were 3000 Black Gold's made and I think less than 2000 Black and Reds...based on that, it's undoubtedly a Black Gold 10th Ann car. Options were the same other than the color. I THINK all 10th's were 5-speeds...but don't quote me on that. The only other limited edition that came to the 280ZX was the ZX-R package, which was made to legalize a new whaletail spoiler for racing. 10th Anniversarys aren't so uncommon, and mint examples don't usually sell for impressive figures. ZX-Rs are less common but the 280ZX in all its forms really doesn't attract high prices. Engine output was the same with your car, Bane. It wasn't until the turbo that there was really a difference beyond options and colors. It's probably on here somewhere, I but have a clip of the Super Bowl commercial when the 10th Ann was launched I can email you. The car in that ad is 2543/3000. Let me know. It's worth it for the guy's mustache alone.

I actually went out to the garage and had a siesta on the floor, which apparently is the sole supplier for the continential USs spider supply, and located the front differential mount. While fighting off legions of multi-legged attackers, I determined that it will certainly require two people to position the jack properly...one sliding it in from the side, and one watching from the back. The fuel tank prevents the lift handle from raising high enough. I didn't get much of a chance to look around, aside from hunting for the differential mount, but I did notice that the springs on each terminating end of the ebrake cable, where they meet the back of the drum, appear to be somewhat compressed, based on some pictures I've seen of other people's brakes. Of course, things do differ between models and individual vehicles, but at this point it looks as if the brakes have rusted to the drum and are preventing the cable from retracting, and because I had the brake set pretty tightly, I have little doubt that those wheels won't be anxious to spin once they're off the ground. As an aside, is that the 280ZX service manual, or owners' manual? I really do need to get ahold of a service manual.

Good old scissors jacks. If I can't find a suitable place for my floor jack, I guess I'll go with the old tried and true. Thanks bane.

Bah, sounds like this will be quite a chore. Good thing it's only 95 degrees out, and 110 in my garage. I've done some more searching, and I'm trying to find a good spot for my floor jack to lift the rear. I know I can put the jack stands on the frame rails at the back, but I need to know where to put the jack to lift the car in the first place. Some posts mentioned the front differential mount. Anyone have a picture of this location? I don't want to punch thru sheet metal or smush the differential while I'm at it.

I had the car garaged over the winter, and have picked up a new battery so I'm about ready to pull her out. Work has been killer, so this didn't happen two months ago like I wanted. During the storage time, I had the parking brake set, as my auto tranny's park gear doesn't work. I should have just used a cinder block, but hindsight as they say, is 20/20. Anyway, when I put the brake handle down, there's little of that "feel" to it. I can't push the car in neutral so I imagine the brake rusted in place while the car sat. What, in your opinions, would be the best way to release the brakes? I'd like to avoid taking the wheels off just because I'm lazy, but it's not out of the question...I am however scared of drum brakes, ever since I tried to do the ones on my Tercel about 10 years ago and the springs went flying everywhere. Never could get them to work right after that. Bonus Question - What automatic transmission fluid would you recommend?

My tunnel gets plenty warm on my automatic, and if the outside temp is over 95, it can be pretty unbearable. However, as Walter mentioned, I have an exhaust leak in that area. I would be worth checking out on your car as well.

We lost my fiance's father just under a year ago. I know exactly how sudden it can be, and it's never easy for anyone involved. Godspeed Carl. Show those angels what a pull to redline can do.

Welcome aboard!

Just the brake lights or the brake lights, running lights and turn signals? Does it effect the back up lights? If it's just the brake lights, you might have a problem with the switch that contacts the brake lever under the dash. You might want to clarify for the more experienced members and check that switch while you're at it.

You need to check and see if you're getting current to the switch before you do anything else. If you don't have power going to the switch, then you certainly won't have it leaving the switch, no matter how well you clean it. When I got my car, the running lights worked, but not the headlamps. I had a dirty switch. This is probably more severe, so you should start at the beginning. Run a quick search, I know there are threads that tell you where to test. I'd run it for you but I'm scooting out the door. Good luck.

One would like to think... but you're right, maybe they don't have TVs. I just saw a cop show where the crooks had a 60" plasma hanging out the side door of a Corolla. And they wondered why they got pulled over...

Check Hybridz, more people there do the swaps and can direct you...and I think there are a few posts with full lists of required parts. I'm sorry I can't tell you, but you might be able to find it there faster than waiting for a post.

The norm at idle is ~36 PSI, so it sounds like you're pretty much on target. Have you checked the plugs for fouling, or the dizzy for any cracks or other wear? Make sure the air cleaner is also firmly attached to the AFM, and that all electrical connections are secure. I suppose you could have a gunked up filter or pickup in the tank, but your pressure seems ok, so we should check all the basics first.

Yhea, good idea. It's might even be cheaper than buying a new lock.