Virto

I was just wading thru my Top Gear collection and started watching an older episode where Lionel Ritchie was the Star in a reasonably priced car. Jeremy Clarkson mentioned that Lionel has never sold any car that he's ever bought. Lionel remarked that he still has his very first car that he bought. Any ideas? Lionel Ritche's first car was (is I guess) a Datsun 280Z 2+2. Kinda neat, just figured I'd share.

You might not be seeing spyware, but just some tracking cookies that the websites you visit are leaving on your computer. If you keep seeing the same exact things, this is a good possibility. In my experience, the AOL spyware/adware/virus scan/blocking software is pretty poor. Here is what I would do in your position: 1) Install Lavasoft's Ad-Aware. Just search Google for adaware. It's free for personal use, is updated frequently and can catch a lot of things AOL misses. 2) Check your PC for active viri. Using AOL or Internet Explorer, do a Google search for Panda ActiveScan. It's a free on-line virus detection/removal program that runs in Active-X, so you need to use Internet Explorer. 3) If you log in via AOL, but do most of your browsing via Internet Explorer, you might want to consider installing Mozilla Firefox. It's based on Netscape and is arguably more secure than Internet Explorer. I've used it for a considerable amount of time and can vouch for it's ability to stop pop-ups as well as reduce the overall amounts of spyware that get installed, since the vast majority of spyware is written to get in via Internet Explorer, as it's the most used web browser. You can get Firefox at www.mozilla.org. Hope this helps.

So get them fully repaired and then slap the rail caps on...cool. Thanks man.

Not to hijack the thread, but are these rails good to replace the existing front frame rails? I know that my driver's side rail was ground down and patched by the PO. It's a "good enough" job but will not last forever. Are these a good option, or is it best to just have a shop remove all the bad metal and just fab some replacements?

You can probably just pick up an oil temp guage from autometer and tap the oil pan. That would probably give you the best overall indication of temp.

Some backyard mechanic starter button perhaps, wanted something a bit different. Next time you go to drive the car, turn the key to on and press the button. You might be able to save your wrists the horrible strain of twisting the key and holding it for 2 seconds.

That's exactly what that is. Longer than 8mm, and you'll probably hit something inside the case, and they want to avoid that, obviously.

Don't know how many Americans know him either...he was primarily a Chicagoland icon. But man, he made tossing a ping pong ball in a bucket a darn good time.

I always thought it was just covered by the bumper. Now you've got me wondering...

Here's the article. Good read. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19034

ooo...sounds sooo good. What kind of exhaust you running?

that's awesome.

Yhea, but he's giving you both seats plus one mounting bracket.

I'd love to have a high res export of that...it would make an awesome wallpaper. Been a long time since I've done any CAD...my architecture studies were years ago.

I have one in my garage. MSA doesn't even list them, but I think they were OEM, like the one for the rear bumper, which is on my car. I'd put the front one on but the plating is pretty torn up, and the PO labeled it with masking tape which, over time peeled off some of the chrome. I like that one though...now I wish mine looked better.

I also have a 78 280Z and I love the car. It's true these cars are rust nightmares, and with rust under your battery, you need to be VERY certain you check the frame rails. Battery acid can drip down onto the rail, and frame rot in these cars can be very severe...and not all to fun to fix. Also, the 280Z came from the factory with an L28 and fuel injection, so this car has been modified to run with carbs. That could create some oddities, but the people here are pretty experienced, and more than willing to help. You might want to go scope the car out, taking a lot of pictures if you can, to upload here. That way members from all around can tell you what they think of the condition. Make sure you get pictures of the frame rails. The floorpan is easy to fix, the spare tire well can be harder to come by, but frame rust is one of those hair pulling things if you can't find someone who can do the job right.

Might have more than one VIN, , if that dash came from a 280. Check the firewall stamp and let us know, we'll get you straightened out.

...yhea, it sounds odd, but from experience, it's probably a piece of gravel in the treads.

Tires, like all forms of rubber, deteriorate with time. It's possible the car sat for a long time and the tires flattopped or rotted out. If the owner is trying to sell it, it's a lot easier when the car is in a driveable condition, or even towable as opposed to trailer stock. Plus potential buyers often swoon when hearing what "new" parts a car has. Makes it sound well maintained. (Or maintained, at least).

The auction says it's for 70+ Z cars, but don't 70-71 cars have a different clutch? I thought that because of the metal fan they had a different clutch to handle the weight. Not really on topic, since the car in question is 76, just satisfying my own thirst for knowledge.

Love it love it love it. Keep the updates coming. I'm really enjoying following this restoration.

Like K&N or Fram? They do work a bit better, since they're generally better flowing than OEM paper or cotton filters. They are, in a lot of cases however, pretty expensive, in the range of 50-100 bucks depending on the application. Overall, you won't really see much of a benefit unless you're running WOT at high RPMs. Straight intakes and to a lesser degree, drop in high-flow filters tend to produce benefits at high RPM, and there's often times a reduction in low end torque. However, depending on how dusty/nasty your climate and daily miles are, they can be worth the money just because you can reuse them after cleaning...although in experience, when you choose to clean them, don't plan on going anywhere that day because they need to dry completely before you oil them.

I think galleries are still offline from the site update...but i've been wrong before. It looks like I can't even get to the main photo galleries, so I'd imagine it might be another couple of days before everything's back up and running. EDIT: Yup, I'm wrong again. The galleries are back up, but it looks like you have to actually go to the member galleries' section and choose the member now. Here's a link to Jackhammer's gallery. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=7601

Combo switch or turn signal switches will run about 250 a pop. There are several threads on testing the circuits and cleaning contacts in the switches before you do anything drastic. You'd hate to buy a new switch and find out you have a short or a broken wire somewhere. If your hazard flashers aren't working, I'd imagine you've probably got more of a wiring problem than a switch problem.