Virto

Signed up! This is pretty awesome.

Assuming you have a 280ZX, MSA sells factory speedometers that don't have the federal 85mph limit. Not sure on current price or availablity. As for swapping in another, as long as it fits the cluster and keeps the same pace, I don't see a problem, except maybe for your state's laws regarding a non-original odometer. Not sure what you can get a donor from.

NOOOOO! The trucker's insurance is covering it right...or did they slap you with it for some stupid "blind spot" violation? In Illinois, it's illegal to drive ANYTHING in the fast lane unless you're passing (new law, very stupid) but that doesn't stop rigs or anyone else.

I've got a pair of MSAs 280Z vinyl side stripes in black that the PO bought when the car was yellow. Since they painted it grey, the black won't show up so well, and I'm not interested in respraying the car. If anyone's interested in them, I'd love to trade for a Datsun hood emblem. The PO lost it last time the car was painted and the holes haven't been filled. Anyone that's interested, let me know. -Kelly

You might have a plug somewhere in the fuel line, or a damaged line. Leaving the key "on" is forcing the fuel pump to push fuel to the engine...if there's a blockage or restriction, that could explain why it takes several minutes for enough fuel to reach the injectors to combust. Maybe the pressure from the pump is OK, but it could be having trouble maintaining the pressure over time, hence the start/sputter/die thing. Replacing the fuel pump might still be viable path to follow.

Good to know. I think it would be really cool of you to write up those other articles.

Looking forward to hearing what they have to say.

...mine do the same thing. The left signal works fine and the right one lights solid and stays on. I haven't had the car long enough to really try and figure it out. Hopefully you'll get some info that can help us both. Good luck.

Gary, I am sorry for your loss. Gary makes an excellent point. Too often people fail to realize that the public road system is designed for and used by exactly that...the public. Here in the Chicago area, fatal crashes are quite common, and more often than not are the cause of a careless or speeding driver. You may think you're a good driver (this is for everyone alive, not trying to single anyone out) but you never know when you're going to face a blowout...or have a steering failure...or have someone's pet or loved one dart out in front of you. Everyone, PLEASE everyone, lets keep the high speeds confined to the circuits and tracks where they belong.

I certainly don't know of any mounts on the car...but perhaps I've overlooked something. I'll see if I can get a photo of the louvers tomorrow and maybe then you or someone else can say if the mounts are of that variety. Thanks for the help!

Anyone have any experience with Motorsport's rear louvers? The catalog says that they require no drilling, but beyond that, doesn't do much of a job explaining anything. I do have a set of aluminum louvers that came with the car, and they have a pair of metal hinges with two holes each at the top...looks to me like they would need to have the car drilled...which I'm not willing to do. Just wondering if anyone could enlighten me. Replies are appriciated. -Kelly

Here's the full size for you. :knockedou

Good god, yhea...this one is the worst. Hopefully everyone got out of the car ok on this one. Sucks too, by the look of the engine bay, she was well cared for. EDIT: White interior too!

The "factory original" hood emblem that Courtesy Nissan sells looks plastic to me. Since all the other emblems are plastic, it's safe to assume it was too. The difference the the texturing they did to the plastic. It really does look like metal until you look at the underside.

Well, I found the screws, and it seems adjusting them shouldn't be a big deal...but... ...my headlights stopped working again. I tried the "rapid movement" of the switch, but to no avail. They worked great two days ago. Fuses still look good, but I haven't picked up a meter yet to test them. However this does rule out that the bulbs are toast. Guess I'll have to see about pulling the whole switch out and checking the contacts. A dirty switch I can deal with, but hunting down wiring issues isn't exactly my cup of tea. ARRGH!

Will do! Thanks a lot!

I tried to search, thinking I'd seen something about this before, but I could be wrong. I finally got my headlights working, but one was obviously installed with the intention of blinding low flying aircraft. Can anyone tell me how to adjust the vertical alignment? The owners manual says "take it to the dealer" and I don't have a factory service manual yet. Your help is appriciated!

Thanks for the concern. The two holes are still present, which is why I'd like to fill them with the emblem. If they had been puttied and painted, it wouldn't be so big of a deal, but instead of having two holes in my hood, might as well use 'em. One thing I don't have are the original hood vents. The PO had the current ones made from sheet metal. They don't look bad, but they aren't original. Anyone know where I can find the stockers?

WHOOOOO! Tonight is the night of miracles. Got bored, decided to go try the "flip the switch real fast back and forth and hope for the best" technique, and to my amazement, POP, two wonderful beams of (not exactly well aligned) light! The bulbs seem plenty bright (for the standards of the day) and the bright toggle works too. I need to bring the left lamp down a bit, but heck, now I can SEE! The car might actually be out to make a fool of me. The little lady came out to see what I was doing and saw my happiness when the lights came on. While sitting there, I commented "too bad this doesn't work" and flipped the map light. Boom. Instant light. This car is out to get me. Unfortuneatly, the same method doesn't seem to work with the windshield wipers, so I'll need to check further into that. I'm still going to try and get those contacts clean...obviously that was the problem. Thanks for the help everyone. Now I'm just waiting for the money to get the car registered and insured so I can take it around more than the block.

Yhea, I got the part number I posted above from courtesy. I think I'll order thru them because they have the fuseable link covers I'm missing in stock, and it's easier to order all at once. Plus, I think they have the hood emblem I'm missing as well. Anyone have a detailed disassembly written up (or photographed) for getting at the headlamp switch. I'd like to clean the contacts on the switch, and make sure all the wires are still soldered on. I'll certainly be picking up a new multimeter. I can't find mine, and it's pretty obvious I'm gonna be needed one. :bandit:

I've popped the brights toggle a few times, just to see if maybe the highs worked and the lows didn't. I don't get the "brights on" indicator either way, but since my brake warning light doesn't work either, I'm not all that surprised. I'm starting to wonder if the headlamp position on the stalk isn't making contact...it's just odd that both the headlamps AND the wipers don't do anything. Here's a couple more pics for all. Edit: Oh Hrududu, this car began life in the same beautiful shade of blue as yours. The PO changed it to yellow and then to grey. Looking at yours, I wish they hadn't done either.

Just to clarify, what I'm looking for is: Oil Pressure Switch - 1970 - 1978 - 240Z, 260Z, 280Z 25070-S30 Is this correct?

Arrgh. :ogre: Well, late night curiousity has taken the best of me, and I replaced the headlamp fuses with 2 known good ones, from the radio and lighter, specifically. Still nothing to the headlamps, dim or otherwise. Are the headlamps available at auto retailers, like AutoZone or Murray's? I'd hate to have to order a pair, and I'd hate it even more if they didn't fix the problem. I know the car sat for quite a while before I got it, so I certainly wouldn't be surprised if the bulbs were just busted. I might feel better if none of the lights worked. At least then I'd know something was really wrong. Arrgh. Stupid payday far away.

Wow...two replies and two different Garys. . Thanks for the input...bookmarking now.

Thanks Gary...updated my info so now people can see where I'm at. I'll see if I can find my meter...haven't needed it in a while. May even just grab some 10A fuses, that's cheaper than a new meter if I can't find it. Didn't see the oil sender on Zcarparts. Any other good places to take a look online, or should I start calling up scrapyards?