Virto

Yhea, that combo is pretty disgusting.

Sounds like a time-trial rally, which isn't really common here in the states, but I've seen a few of them done on a local scale. Essentially you have a set destination and you have to follow a specific route and you are awarded your points based on how close to the target time you are. In other words, you have to calculate distance and traffic (most of these are on public roads) and then adjust your speed to aim for the target time. It's actually pretty enjoyable if you like thinking while cruising.

Hmm. If you're planning to go to bare metal, you probably would rather use a stripper than sanding it off. It would take forever to sand. For a repaint, sand the paint down rough, wash and dry it and then just prime over it. I think it'd be best to go to bare metal only if you're looking for hidden surprises or if you know there's an area you need to repair. And I hear you on the flaking paint. My car started blue, ended up yellow and then was resprayed again by the PO in a muddy gray shade. You can see plenty of yellow flaking through, especially around the side trim and pillar emblems that weren't removed before painting. Of course, the inside of the hatch under the carpet...all blue.

Some people have run a clear over the paint, but most do not. If you read through that link to the mopar site (it's a huge, huge read, but many experiences and pictures are included) you'll come across some folks to refer to clearcoats. You're right about the depth of paint issue. That's why rustoleum requires 7 coats or so - it has to be put on quite thin to prevent runs and bubbles, and because it takes so dang long to fully cure. A few people note that a single unthinned coat failed to cure after two months in 70-80 degree weather with fairly low humidity. Brightside and some other marine paints go on thicker and self-level, and people were seeing quality results after 2-3 coats versus 5-7. For me, that amount of (potential) time savings is worth the price of the paint, which is 2-3 times more expensive than rustoleum in the same size cans. The benefit to rustoleum or similar is that there is a far greater variety of color available - but I like the basic stuff.

Courtesy shipped out today - they have some back in stock if anyone is looking for a federal emissions EGR tube.

You make up the price with the labor. It's all about how much your time is worth. I don't have much spare cash, so my choice is easy, . Under the right circumstances, I'd prefer a sprayed pro-level job over something like this, but I can't afford it and my existing paint is horrible - spotted and gritty. It needs to go. The main issue that I'll be dealing with is that I share a 3-car garage and my upstairs neighbors are, frankly, idiots. I'll need to hang plastic roof to floor to avoid them stirring up dust and crap.

I didn't follow your link - the work firewall doesn't like it. I'm assuming that it's a roller job, based on the fifty dollar price quote. Here is a link to the biggest thread ever that seemed to have sparked all this roller business and was discussed in detail on hybridz. It's a mopar site, but the info is great. It's a HUGE post and will take you a long, long time to read - but you probably should go through all of it before you decide on technique and paint. moparts: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44............ I'll be doing a roller job in white using Interlux marine paint. Unfortunately, the shop will have my car for at least another couple of weeks while I wait for my new EGR tube, so it might have to wait til next year. It's also worth noting that it will cost a fair bit more than 50 bucks in total. 50 for paint sounds about right, but rollers, mineral spirits, sandpaper, sanding block or power sander, polisher, polishing compound - it adds up. I've decided on Interlux paint because Brightside does in 3 coats what Rustoleum does in 7 - it takes longer to cure, so I'm hoping to manage a coat every other week. We'll see how it goes once I actually start on it. Edit: Actually, I think I've seen the page you're pointing to while I was doing my research from home - if it's the car with the blue stripes, that's the one that really got me thinking about this as being viable. It takes a lot of time and elbow grease to achieve what he managed, however.

And I should stop looking for parts and such, but I never listen to my own advice. The biggest issue is the body rot. Headlights and what not can be replaced. If its solid as a body shell, it's worth looking at if you're OK with buying a project car. If you want a turn-key driver, you're going to spend plenty more than that. Radiator isn't a hard job. Dizzy is easy, exhaust isn't expensive depending on what's missing. If you like it, look at it. Get under it and check the floors and such.

Don't happen to have any 280Z hood vents, do you?

As long as the clutch isn't slipping (and badly, at that) there shouldn't be any wear from using engine braking. My daily driving with manual transmission cars always yielded longer brake life than similarly sized automatics. Even when I took driver's ed...17 or so years ago...they didn't really teach true manual transmission driving or technique. There were "simulators" that could be used to demonstrate a three on the tree, but how likely was anyone to run across on of those in the 90s? I remember them from when I was a kid, but I've never driven one. Anyway, don't worry about engine braking wearing out your clutch. Obviously you won't want to downshift from 4th to 2nd or anything, you'll risk over-rev if you're going too fast. Just try downshifting from 4th to 3rd or 3rd to 2nd while you're slowing down for stoplights. You'll get used to it and it'll be something you do mindlessly before long.

It ended up being the same price from Courtesy, so I made the call to go with them. I've got that auction on watch, though, so I may still go that route. Thanks, fellas.

Dang, Courtesy processed my order, but apparently they don't have any stock, because it shows as parts on order. Hopefully they can come across a few this week, or else I'll cancel the order and get one from whoever can supply it quickly.

Yep, it's this little waste of design. Courtesy has them for 65, so they're cheaper than MSA (75) and much cheaper than ZCarSource (85) but 11 bucks to ship this thing. That's the problem with estimated shipping costs. You could toss this in a priority mail envelope and get it here in 2 days for 5 bucks...

Alright, order placed. Hopefully stuff shows up by the middle of the week so I can drop it off at the shop. The good news is that the rest of the brake setup looks good - no leaking, no rusted or damaged lines. This EGR tube seems like a pretty stupid bit of design in being both inaccessible and prone to corrosion. Looks like they're getting harder to come by for federal emissions cars, as well. I was hoping to have it back this weekend, but I guess it's not in the cards. I've got to get to work on the fender rust and I was hoping to have the car sanded by the end of the month. Might have to push that date out a bit. I plan to try roller painting the car white using Interlux Brightside paints. And maybe I'll paint the bonnet bulge a different color. Or maybe I'll just try not to get too far ahead of myself for a change.

New is fine. I'll order one from Courtesy - I was really concerned about ordering the correct one. I'll place an order tonight. Thanks much.

Sounds good, thanks Carl. It looks like the EGR tube is NLA, but Courtesy has some, but I'm not sure if the part is 14120-N4701 for Federal, or if it's N4702. I've run into conflicting reports. Edit: I went ahead and ordered a new MS. Nobody had one in-stock in the area, so I'll have to wait a few days before I can drop it off at the shop. I could have had the shop order one, but this way I know what I'm getting.

The Z is at the local shop for exhaust and brake work, and the EGR tube on the manifold is rotted out. (EGR Tube A - Federal Emissions) Since Illinois requires emissions testing, I don't think I should block it off - Courtesy has it listed as NLA, and MSA wants 80 bucks - Zcarsource wants 85. Anyone have a used, good tube for sale, or know another place I can look for one? My brake master cylinder is also shot. The vacuum booster is ok, but the MS will need to be replaced. I know some people swap to a larger MS, but this car is casual street driven only. Is there anything specific I should look for in a replacement? I could probably just have the shop order an aftermarket part for it, but I'd like to know if people think that's a good enough option.

I'm kind of with Blue, honestly. A Z car shooting brake could be really cool.

The more I see of the interior, the more I love that car. I do have a soft spot for the tan interior, but to see it done custom aftermarket like that is just cool.

Is it wrong of me to actually really love the paint it had on it? Congrats with the car, and it looks like you're doing everything right. She'll be pretty when she's back together.

Mine does that too, and I can't help but laugh at it sometimes. Bzzzz...Bzzzz...bbghghzzz... Sometimes it sounds like it randomly gets tossed into a bucket of water and it's drowning.

First things first - get it towed home. If you don't know how long it's been sitting, don't drive it - don't even start it. Once you have it home, drain the fuel tank and look for any rust or particulate. This will tell you if your next step will be dropping the tank and having it boiled or if you're safe draining and re-filling it. As mentioned above, adding a small in-line filter between the tank and pump is a great idea. The little buggers are only a few bucks and any insurance is good insurance. Tank gunk and rust will clog the fuel pump inlet screen and you'll potentially experience a rainbow of different issues with drivability. I know all about this, personally. Change the under-hood fuel filter and any of the EFI fuel lines if they are worn or cracking. Make sure you get EFI rated fuel line. It's around 6 bucks a foot or so - if the parts store gives you a cheap price, it won't hold up to EFI pressures and then you'll have some serious issues to deal with. Replace all your cracked or worn vacuum hoses as well (another personal experience). Pull and check the plugs and replace if needed. Just keep coming back with questions and updates and we'll give you a hand.

Floors at a minimum. I was going to say rails, too, but I realized on a second look that it's your BUMPER that had pinhole rust, . I'm not that observant. You're making great progress. Keep it up and we look forward to seeing the results when the shop is done.

Yes, although it should be white from the factory. Here's a link to a reddat sale that's overpriced but has a picture. Datsun 260z 280z Positive Battery Cable Fusible Link Wire Nice | eBay

Rewinds, in graphite - awesome choice. MSA carries them in various sizes. Motorsport! Konig Rewind Graphite 15x7 Wheel Kit, 70-85 Z/ZX - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts I would happily pay you 100 bucks for that set of wheels plus the shipping if you really want to sell them. I want to get rid of my turbines - one of them slow leaks. Those slot mags often sell for around 200 bucks a set on eBay.