Virto

Did you buy a new factory unit? Aftermarket units are notoriously crappy, and you can grab a factory unit from CoutesyNissan for like $55 US. You might also have a faulty new unit. Disconnect the lead from the sender and ground it to the chassis. Turn the key to ON and the gauge might rise to the top slowly. This indicates a faulty sender. Could also be a broken gauge. It's been known to happen.

Rear end clunk is pretty common in these cars. You might be in the early stages. Try a search...there's about a bajillion threads on it. Hope you get it figured out.

You can try giving MSA a call and see if they have any in. It's not a part that anyone produces that I know of, so it's kinda hit or miss. Ebay's a good place to check too for NOS parts.

Check with MSA, they offer quite a few styles. www.zcarparts.com or better yet, order a catalog. The online store doesn't have all the products available.

http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=11-3063&Category_Code=SFC02

1978 Production Year 280Z - HLS30-454423, 3/78

oooo....(somewhat dirty) white interior too! All together it looks really nice. My envy level is rising. Can't help with donations though...gotta keep the bank off the title for the old house...money grubbers.

That's just plain freaking cool.

Crap. Just when I think I know what I'm talking about. Well...take that picture and mirror it in photoshop, you'll get the idea....

The engine info plate is here:

Sounds about right. I know clutch kits from www.autobarn.com for the 280Z cost from 140 to 170 depending on the brand. You should try offering it for sale for a hundred bucks or so and I bet someone will snatch it up.

Bah, I just need an automatic :paranoid: Not that I can afford one right now anyway...besides, all that doesn't work on mine is Park.

I use Firefox 1.0.6 and rarely have a problem. Most of the times the problem arises, there's an oversided picture or link in the thread...something that can't be split apart like a sentence. Of course, other times, the forums just have a hiccup.

We're required to test in Illinois too, but since the car is old enough, it's just a test at idle...no dyno run. The limits are similar to Ohio's it seems, but like my new cars, all I have is a card that says "Pass."

There's a dark brown 280Z (or 260, it has lights in the grille) in the 1985 movie "Fletch" with Chevy Chase. It's in the highway scene where he's running from the cops after stealing the Alfa roadster. You on'y see it for a couple seconds, but you can keep catching glimpses of it as the reuse the same footage over and over during the high speed chase.

Definately time to test the circuits then and see where the fault lies. These cars aren't known for having fabulous wiring, and it's not uncommon to have to do a tear down and replace portions.

Yay! Nice to see more turbines. Seems not too many people have them. At first I didn't like them on m car, but they've grown on me.

Some kind of electrical failure, I'd imagine. You know, I haven't tried flashing the brights with the switch off, I assume it's a flash to pass feature just like practically every other car. If that's the case, you may have a worn out headlamp switch. Try flipping the switch back and forth 10 or 15 times real quick to see if it clears some crap off the contacts. Otherwise, there's a guide you can search for here for taking apart and cleaning the combination switch, which is the stalk the headlamp and wiper controls reside on. Edit: You can test the headlamp harness for current with the switch on if flipping the switch several times has no effect. This is probably a bit easier than pulling the combo switch if you haven't narrowed down the problem.

No, it doesn't show how to restore any switches or anything of that nature. It basically expects that you'll know how to refurb something or that you'll buy/salvage a replacement. The book is very good to have because it gives great direction on how to get to parts of the car and what order to take them apart in, and how to put it back together.

D'oh, you're totally right. That's what I get for acting before thinking. I'll have to dig up the owners manual and plug in the numbers.

Looks pretty nice. Nothing for poor automatics like myself.

My hazards worked fine, but my blinkers didn't work because I had a tail lamp burn out. When I got my car, my headlamps didn't work either, although the parking lamps did. Try flipping the headlight switch about 20 times on and off real fast. If there's built up crud on the contacts, that's a good way to give them a temporary cleaning. There is an article on here about removing the entire switch and cleaning the contacts. This is probably a good place to start, although a rewire in your case (ie, car plauged with electrical demons) is probably a good idea.

Looks like there might be some rust starting around the breather badge...but it also looks like they filled in the breather. Looks like a 260/280 rear end. The car's neat, having been owned by Evel. It's more a piece of his history than Z history, so it'll most likely just go to another collector of Evel stuff rather than a Z head. Still, neat to look at.

Eep! Well, I guess if you've got money to burn and you're looking to restore absolutely everything to new condition.