strangethursday

Cool! Hope they cost less than mine. Speakin of money, I gotta get that money order out to you after work

Zs-ondabrain did you ever find air horns? I tried jam they didn't have any left. I gave up & bought them from pegasus racing. Kinda expensive but I was fed up. I did find some pipercross anodised aluminum 1s for a lil cheaper than what I bought but they're for 45s

Thanks

Did you ever find that receipt? $70 is cheaper than I ever found & I need some too.

Thanks. I kno of some volkswagon spot. I'll check it out. Maybe some hardware stores too

Of course I have. All I've been able to find is complete rebuild kits

Any1 kno where I can get a gasket only set for weber dcoe carbs? I got a banjo that's leaking

Ok so I got a spectre regulator & gauge on now & the car runs fine with no excess fuel spillin out. My new issue is this. When I have the regulator set at 4psi, the gauge reads about 2psi or less. When I have it set at 5.5psi, it reads about 3psi. Don't kno how accurate it is but the car seems to like it there. I'll just leave it until I get a decent regulator & gauge. Found Jeg's own gauge for $18 but what about a regulator? I want 1 with a return but, any recomendations?

With any carbs (maybe not with a returnless system) I'd think you'd want the flow rate as high as possible while keeping the pressure right. Although don't hold me to that

Any recomendations on a regulator? I have 1 that looks like the same as in the VB catalogue layin around. Maybe a spectre brand 1?

ok I got a fuel pressure gauge on. it's this lil spectre pos & while i never thought it was precise, it always seemed about where I thought it would be on my spitfire. anyway if it IS, that pump is puttin out about 8psi when its supposed to be about 4. defective pump?

You don't think that would be exciting? Jk Ur probably right. I'm gonna pull the gauge & regulator off my spitfire & see. There are other people runnin this pump but I don't kno about the other mods

Top end was reffering to when used with webers. Check the link I posted

No it's the 1 top end performance say "DOES NOT and SHOULD NOT" need a regulator. http://www.racetep.com/webfuelspark.html That's the reason I bought it

I have a 73 w/ L28 & tripple webers & have always had a lil problem with the fuel supply being unstable. The pump just went out, so I replaced it with a carter 4070. Come to find out the pump that was on there (I thought it was original) is a mitsubishi pump. Did mistubishi even have a performance carb'd car in the us? Anyway I put the carter on yesterday & the car had more power & didn't bog or stumble at all. This morning on the way to work it kept flooding to the point it would stall. I have a switch for the pump & had to turn the pump off for a min as soon as it started to bog (all the way to work). I'm sure it needs to be tuned now but, the second it stalls, fuel pours out through the air filter. Mainly from the 3rd carb. I've been meaning to change the banjo on that carb to make the system back to having a return line. Any help?

Oh sorry. It's a 73 with a L28 w/ electronic ignition swap. I haven't seen a comparison of internally & extrernally regulated alternators but, something about the back of the 1 on there has me thinkin it's internally regulated. Theres so much half-assed wiring that I'm not sure what's goin on tho

thats what i thought. what would cause it? i havent been able to determine if my alternator is interally or externally regulated. im thinking it is externally & the regulator isnt working. i was thinking it was an internally regulated alternator but they left the old regulator there. theres also a very low rated inline fuse that looks spliced into a wire off the external. thanks for the help

any ideas why my car keeps drying out batteries? I was having charging issues a few weeks back where the battery kept drying out. I replaced the battery cuz it was old anyway & today the new 1 is dry. It's only at the most 3 weeks old so I'm thinking it's the car.

As far as getting a flat. 1 of my tires exploded on the freeway lastnite. I don't think the slime would help maybe krazy or gorrilla glue... 1 hell of a puzzle tho. haha

I didnt get a good look at the pump b4. the wire thats not connected to anything comes out of the harness above the pump. I fixed the pump problem & wired in a switch so I can turn the pump off while Im trouble shooting the lighting prob

I plan to take the fuel pump off whatever circuit it's wired into & use a switch instead. I have a question tho. The electric pump that's been installed looks stock. There appear to be 3 wires. 1 on top which has never been connected to anything & 2 around the center of the body. 1 that looks like it grounds to the body of the pump & the power supply (which is hooked up of course). Any idea what the top wire is & what I should do with it?

I didn't notice the amps when it happened. I don't have a fsm & can't buy 1 (or really anything for that matter) until my lights are fixed. I can't get to my 2nd job anymore so basically the only way I'm eating right now is the food at my 1st job. To top it off, this morning while trying to get to work, the wiring for the fuel pump started acting up & blew 2 fuses. Luckily I got a ride. Everytime something electrical goes wrong & I track it down, it's either an added on circuit or a moddified 1. Any1 in rancho cucamonga? I'm officially puttin a hit out on the PO! Haha

I checked power everywhere & finally reached the headlight sockets. There's power there. I went to the rear lights & 3 of the dual filiment bulbs were exploded. The sockets themselves no longer have power tho. I only found 1 ground at the front so far. I also found that the fuse for the tail lights was a 30a instead of a 20a so I switched that out. What should I do?

Is this the right order? power source > combo > hazard switch > fuse box > relay > lights?

I pulled out the hazard switch & opened it up. The contacts had bearing grase on them so I cleaned them up. Didnt work. From the looks of it, the switches cannot just stop working right? the wires & connectors look good. as do the switches themselves. possibly a relay? the flasher wouldnt cause everything thats happening right?