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strangethursday

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Everything posted by strangethursday

  1. I poked around with a test light yesterday & found some strange $^!# goin on. With the combo switch, hazard & ignition off, the flasher still have power on both poles (1 pole will flash the test light). At the fuse box with the combo on, all the fuses for the lights have power. The heavy white/red & the heavy red wires that come in on top of the combo always have power (regaurdless if the ignition is on or not) have power which I think is normal. However, no wires on the bottom of the combo do. I'm thinking the hazard switch is done & probably the combo too. I'm gonna try the hazard 1st tho. BTW I found the fiberoptic lighting for the hazard switch & lighter pretty interesting. I've never seen that on a car b4! Haha
  2. Forgot to mention the gauges that still work & the parking lights like to come on with the ignition now regaurdless of the possition of the combo switch
  3. While driving my car the other night (73 240) the connector for the ignition wire coming off the solenoid disconnected (it's in bad shape). Anyway, the car died, I found the prob, reconnected it & it started back up fine. My problem now is the lights went all wierd. 1st all exterior lights worked & all but the temp/oil gauge inside. I turned the lights off then on again & it started working again. Then within a matter of minutes ALL exterior lighting went out. Also all of the gauges except the speedo & volt/fuel are now out. The T/S & hazzards also. What is goin on? I thought it might be the combo switch & went to swap it with another I have but, it ended up being the earlier 1 so I can't use it without mods ( my wipers only work on 2 settings anyway so I might just end up trying it). In my manual it says to test it by bypassing the switch, can some1 link me to a 73 combo switch wiring color diagram? Thanks
  4. strangethursday posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    I have a 72 with an L28 w/ close ratio 5spd swap & I have a couple of issues. The 1st is 3rd gear, when I'm driving in 3rd I hear this noise that almost sounds like electrical crackling for the shifter area. Any ideas what this is? The 2nd problem is at least 80% of the time I get grinding or a crunch when I shift into reverse. I just replaced the clutch master & slave cylinders & I think I remember seeing some extended rod kit for the MC. Is that what's goin on here?
  5. Thanks every1. I got it fig'd now. I uncapped the drivers side 1 & I'm gonna route it into the top of a vented catch bottle I have the valve cover hooked up to. As far as the other 1, I'll be getting another 2way banjo & hooking that up. Where is the stock expansion tank located? Up near the filler or do 71s not have em?
  6. What kind of pressure you gonna run the return line regulator at?
  7. Sorry. I'm not sure about the fuel pressure. It looks like a stock electric pump of some kind. Similar to the 1s in the haynes book
  8. I thought about the venting issue too. I'm gonna check all the on tank fittings & the surge tank. Any idea about the capped tube I was talking about? The 1 near the alt was leaking fuel but there's 1 on the drivers side rail that's capped too that I think is the return. I plan on doing a return anyway. The I've only been able to find a diagram for a 260 in the haynes manual. I have a 71 with a L28 swap. Are the factory service manuals still available?
  9. When I got my car I noticed near the alternator a hard line with a deteriorated rubber cap on it. It was leaking fuel slightly. I figured it was a return line for the stock setup (car came with tripple DCOEs). The DCOE setup doesn't have a way for me to hook the return back up. I just put a new cap on it & left it alone for the time being. My new problem comes when I park the car for extended periods of time. The system builds pressure until fuel starts coming out of the filters. Now I have to open the gas cap when I park which is working for now but, I don't always remember to do it. Last time I left the cap on over the weekend & when I opened it a big gush a gas spewed all over my arm. Is this caused by the lack of a return line or is it something else? I'm thinking of replacing the 3rd fuel line banjo with a 2 way one, routing it into a small catch/ expansion tank & then back into the return line. Any help with this?
  10. Are any of the clutch master cylinders interchangable or atleast the resiviour on top? I'm replacing mine soon & I've seen some that the top actually screws on instead of just sliding in & I prefer that.
  11. strangethursday posted a post in a topic in Parts Swapping
    Thanks. That's what I was lookin for. Wow.... I didn't think to look in ratio....
  12. strangethursday posted a post in a topic in Parts Swapping
    Thanks guys. I have those book marked. The 1 I saw had an actual photo of the 2 side by side. Problem is I use a hiptop to go on the net right now & those are too small on here. I just gotta find it or get to a computer somewhere
  13. strangethursday posted a post in a topic in Parts Swapping
    I found somewhere a page that mentioned the difference between single eared/tabbed 5spds & the double but I can't find it now. Any help?
  14. Thanks. It goes behind the diff to the rear of the car. If you saw this car you'd seriously doubt the PO painted or coated this.
  15. I guess it doesn't really matter. The construction is pretty good. A lot better than some other headers I've seen lately & for $22 HAHA! Thanks
  16. I found an equal-length 6-1 header for a square port yesterday. Which companies make these & how do I tell the difference?
  17. I was at the wrecking yard yesterday & found a 73 with a yellow rear sway bar. Who makes their's yellow? I'm tryin to figure out what it is.
  18. There are no hoses on my manifold. I have triple webers. It has a heat shield but it's just thin sheet metal. I don't know how effective it is. I have to make a new 1 or wrap the top anyway cuz I just got a heade. Thanks guys.
  19. Actually I plan on doin my headers. The reason I'm asking is because the SU manifold (my Z came with webers) is kept roughly the same temp as the coolant through the connections & cooler, denser air blah blah blah (we all know the advantage). I have 2 cars with the intake & exhaust on the same side. My spitfire has a cat right there & the intake manifold can burn you even with the heat shield
  20. Hey everybody! This is my 1st post. Are there any issues (due to the fuel maybe) with ceramic coating the inside of an intake manifold?

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