hmsports

I'm building an EProd using an ATL 12 gallon cell. The support frame is simply some 1" square tubing welded between the car's frame under the trunk area that has been removed. See pictures Here. I am going to bend some 1.5" roll-bar tubing that will hang down and get welded to the vehicle frame. This will protect the cell from a rear impact. I'm also going to weld some braces from the tubing forward at a 45 degree angle to the vehicle frame. This will help keep the rear bar from collapsing. With the larger cells I have seen guys mount then higher in the trunk area. That's about all you can do to get the ground clearance. It does raise the center of gravity a bit though. Good luck. Rick

My EProd car isn't even close to being complete so I'm renting a 1975 280Z for this Saturday's Regional SCCA race at Gateway International Raceway in St. Louis. I'm picking the car up tonight. It is a car I used to compete against in ITS. It's been three years since I've raced so I'm pretty stoked! I'll try to post some photos and maybe a couple of in-car video snippets.

I'd swap them -- 275 front and 250 rear. Also, try the Koni inserts. They are $155 each from True Choice. I think they are the 8610-1149. I wouldn't waste the money on the super expensive three or five way adjustable. They are only good for the last few tenths and you can better use the money on tires or track time. Just my opinion.

I'm going to weld them in. Much cleaner of an install I think. The GC plates I had were aluminum and had so many little bolts it just looked sloppy.

The machinist who was going to make my plates for me retired so he couldn't manufacture them on 'company time'. I found a place online called eMachineshop.com that has some nifty software to download that you can CAD draw your part. You then simply submit the order and they will build it. Just ordered four of these plates: Plate Design Delivered cost was about $95. I'll let you know in two weeks how they came out.

The E-Prod cage was designed for chasis stiffness and safety. I've been involved in two major accidents and my cages didn't incur any damage -- nor did I. The NASCAR bars on the passenger side will be replaced by an X bar. The tripple vertical bars within the driver's NASCAR bar will not extend to the sill. The bars that extend to the front struts are there to triangulate and eliminate chasis flex. The cage will use close to 100 feet of tubing. I'm using 1.5" by 0.120" wall DOM tubing. It weighs about 1.5# per foot. As far as tie-in points up front, it is best to weld the mounting plate to the floor and bend it to extend up and weld it to the inner rocker.

Here's the proposed design for my new E-Production cage. It is already changing some but mostly it will be like this: E-Prod Cage Design Here's the main hoop with rear bracing drawn in: Main Hoop Here are some pictures of a cage I designed and built for an ITA Honda: ITA Honda Cage I will be happy to offer design advice and answer any questions you have. Rick

Born in Kailua, Hawaii Moved to Maui at 2 Moved to Castleton, New York at 5 Moved to Boston, Massachusetts at 18 Basic training in San Antonio, Texas at 21 Tech School in Biloxi, Mississippi at 21 Station at Scott AFB, Belleville, IL at 22 Moved to Colorado Springs, Colorado at 26 Moved to Swansea, IL at 28 Moved to Hazelwood, Missouri at 29 I guess I 'grew up' in Castleton so I'm 1049.49 miles from 'home'.

I have raced using the same tension rods for more than eight years with the aluminum/delrin bushings and never had any sign of failure or fatigue. When I smacked the wall hard the tension rod simply bent to about 90 degrees but no 'snap' and no sign of cracks when I inspected it (before tossing it in the trash).

Worn rings make the piston a bit looser in the cylinder but then the piston can wiggle around. I've had this happen on my of my engines and you can see very uneven wear -- indications of more friction.

Yes. It is pretty much like the manual bender on the page you linked in. I have three sets of dies. I can do 1", 1.5" and 1.75" tubing. Takes a while to get used to the measurements and where to start bending from. My first attempt several years ago took three tries to get a good main hoop. I would love to get the degree wheel option and the hydraulic drive.

No, this bender is of the $500 variety that makes smooth bends with no distortion of the wall. The tubing is drawn around the die through a mandrel block, not simply pressed like the HF hydaulic benders.

Sorry, no gas tank. And the front bumper has been sold too.

For sale from my '72 -- Pictures Here - Rear lights - $10 - Rear bumper - $50 - small kink/dent near left bumperette - Front bumper with overrider - $75 - very good shape. - Rear hatch - $50 (horizontal lines -- some are missing) - Front grill - $20 - Hood - $40 - Left front fender - $50 - Right front fender - $25 - Doors - $50 each or $75 for the pair (with glass and mechanism) - Quarter windows - $10 for the pair - Fiberglass headlight buckets - $50 for the pair (right front has a small hole) - Front valance with lights - $80.00 Thanks for helping before the city takes it away... Rick

Complete L24 with E31 and round tops. Includes stock exhaust manifold. Needs points. Turns over effortlessly. Has not run in about five years. $600 or best offer. You pay shipping. I'm in St. Louis.

All 240z 1972 - ITS - wrecked 1972 - ITS - wrecked 1970 - #3601 - Sold 1971 - Building to EP 1972 - Shell (for sale)

Found this photo in a box of my Wife's Uncle's belongings when we cleaned out his house. Don't have a clue who it is but thought it was a neat photo.

I was going to cut out the offending rusted metal and weld in new patch panels. It won’t be up to ‘full restored show’ quality but it will be repaired with quality metal and full welds to racing safety standards. I won't be able to get to my storage location for a while to get more pictures as it is snowed/iced in. If you are interested I can also install a custom full ITS legal or E-Production legal cage for: ITS cage: $800 E-Prod cage: $1100

Must part with my 72 shell. Has been gutted in preparation for an E-Production build - $200 Good glass No wiring No dash No seats Basically a good solid tub Rust: - Fender well below battery tray - Frame rail below battery tray - Some floor pan. Repairable without replacing I will repair these areas for $200 extra if you wish. See some pictures Here Please help before the City hauls it away!

The Learning Channel Big Miniature Tue, Jan. 27, 2004 9 p.m. and midnight ET/PT Jay Leno will be with us when it's unveiled. It will happen on the celebrity-packed 35th anniversary of a little car named Hot Wheels. The celebration will feature the showing of this car; a car that we've watched in the making: a full-size version of the best-selling Deora, a Hot Wheels collectable that will be big and drivable at this wild and colorful festival. But the Deora won't be the lone special guest at this unique bash. West Coast Customs, the leader in car customizing for the hip-hop world, will also take a miniature favorite and make it full scale for the birthday — their custom Escalade will be a color-matched sister car to the Deora, a new and radical design that will stand in stunning contrast to that other grown Hot Wheels car at the party. But before the party, we'll watch these vehicles being made, seeing what it takes to scale up from tiny to full size, to drivable and powerful. In the case of the uniquely shaped Deora, we'll see what kind of luxury car has been chopped up, rearranged and retooled so that it could provide the basis for this giant version of a pop culture classic.

I started working on my cage last week. After checking with the SCCA on the legality of my main hoop I'm going to get some more work done this weekend before the ice storm. Pictures of my plans, tubing bender/notcher setup and main hoop work can be found at the bottom of the page at this link: EP Cage Build

On of my friends who races a 280Z in ITS was breaking his half shafts on a regular basis until he had them shot peened. Hasn't broken one since. Thanks for the technical explanation Phred!