hmsports

Toyo makes a 225/50/14 or a 205/55/14. You can get them delivered to your door from Vilven tire near Chicago for about $125 each.

I've heard good things about the Falken tires also. For the price they may be the way to go. I have a set of Toyo Proxes that I like quite well (Z rated street tires). Another option are Kumho. Like the Toyo, they wear well. I really like the look of the Falken tread pattern. On a side note... can you guys down under get Hoosier tires? Once you race on those you won't want to run anything else.

Well, for computer geeks like me, VB (Visual Basic) is bad because it is a Microsoft product :classic: But for Z guys, well at least some purists, the parts may not be up to par. Most, if not all, are aftermarket parts. I've seen complaints about their rubber seal kits. I have had good luck with them though -- and their prices usually beat MSA. Except it is wise to compare with MSA since they do offer a 10% discount for members of Z clubs. I usually order about 1/2 of my stuff from each -- although some of what I get comes from the local auto-parts store (not AutoZone or Napa), the locally owned store -- I always check them first.

MSA (800) 633-6331 has them for $34.95 including the boot. Call your local auto-supply house and see what they can do for you too. I know I'll get blasted for recommending Victoria British, but they have ball joints for $24.95 (800) 255-0088

Have you checked to make sure the nozzle below the carb is not stuck open such that it would be in a choke-on state? I know these can bind open sometimes. Is the front float adjusted correctly? There's not a lot that can go wrong with the SUs but if you have another one sitting around, give it a shot (swapping the front one out).

I'm trying to get my budget filled out for my race car and may have to sell my 71. It is rust free but needs an interior -- it does have some minor surface rust -- and needs a paint job. Has a clean dash cap. I've installed new rear wheel cylinders, new front rotors, bearings, grease seals and rebuilt calipers. New brake hoses all around. New master cylinders for both brake and clutch. New clutch hose and clutch slave cylinder. I've installed a Crane XR-3000 electronic ignition and Crane PS-91 performance coil. I've cleaned the carbs and it has new oil, filter, wires, cap, rotor, hoses. I'm don't really want to do this but I'm in a pinch -- but that doesn't mean I'm going to let it go for nothing... I'm in St. Louis. If you want to see some photos, check out the bottom car on my build page...71 240 I can post some other photos if anyone is interested.

Mike --- correct, I'm the goofy looking one in the racing suit. The guy in the blue duds is Dave Prokopf of Advanced Automotive. He is my crew chief -- well, this year, I'm his crew chief since I don't have a car and he is running a Toyota MR2.

Search for companies that preserve artwork or antiques. Much of the old paper that was used contains acid which over time self destructs. I believe there are ways to neutralize the acid. Maybe you can contact one of the larger libraries and get in touch with someone there that is in charge of preserving books. Laminating (called that in the US too) may also help by keeping the air from accelerating the acid. The only issue here is that it will not be original now. They make plastic sleeves for comic books -- maybe once you get it neutralized, you could keep them in there. You can still see them but it will help keep the oil from your hands off too. Best of luck.

I've raced on Yokohama tires -- it was about 7 years ago so I don't remember what model. They had great wear and very good performance for a less expensive tire. I don't think you can go wrong.

with Dave the Crew Chief

I like ToTheMax -- kind of gives a metalic feel to the site. Not quite sure about the colored tabs... The site is easy to navigate and you are doing a great job with it!

I contacted them and they don't make an LSD for the R-180 -- they said they have a plan to do so... someday.

I have an MSD-6AL in my race car with an old Allison optical trigger. It works very well. My 71 street car has a Crane Fireball system that I purchased from MSA. It was easy to install but I haven't put in the electic fuel pump so I dont' know how it will perform.

There's a crack-down at work for internet access and also the boss is being a Male-Member with Ears so I can't surf as much as I would like to.

Thanks for the plug 2Many! Here's a look at one of my custom cages... Civic Cage Problem is I'm in St. Louis. I can offer any advice as far as good design/engineering for a cage. Rick

If activating the turn signal switch either direction lights the lamps, it would indicate to me that the switch is fine, but the relay may be to blame. Have you checked/replaced the blinker relay? Consult your service manual for it's location and procedure for replacing.

I got mine from JCWhitney. You may also be able to get them from Courtesy Nissan in Texas. Remove the front fender. Remove the door. Remove the kick panels and door sills. Once you have the new one, use it for a reference to see how far they extend forward and aft. I used an air chisel to break the old one lose. You could also get some spot weld drill bits from a company like Eastwood to keep the cutting down. The hardest part is where they tie into the a-pillar up front. The rocker is behind them. I chose to cut my rocker and butt weld it so I didn't have to get into the a-pillar. If you are making a show car you may want to do it right. Once the old one was removed, it was simply a matter of welding the new one in. They fit quite nicely. Oh, it was time consuming and frustrating.

I must agree with Michael. I have searched past threads many times before I ask a question. Sometimes saves me creating another thread.

'Blood, Sweat and Beers' The shade-tree mechanics credo

My head was out of whack quite a bit too... but my therapist took care of it :classic: Seriously, my E31 was warped .025 and my machinist was able to heat it and clamp it down to get it perfectly straight again without any machining. The company is here is St. Louis and they specialize in repairing heads. In fact, many dealers around the country send their problem stuff to them. Give them a call... maybe you can send it to them and they can take care of it. JCM Machine Shop 5655 Old Highway 21 Otto, MO 63051 (636) 942.4567 The owner's name is Charley. Be aware that they are usually quite busy... He did the machine work on my block and balanced everything for my race engine and built my E31 -- did a great job. Rick

Kind of looks like a really early Corvette

Have you checked the u-joints in your drive shaft? If they are going out or have been damaged you may have some of the same symptoms.

Have you checked/adjusted the valves? Maybe an intake valve is loose and not letting in enough fuel on the intake stroke -- or maybe the exhaust valve is not letting the gases evacuate. I had a similar problem once and when I took the valve cover off, one of the intake rocker arms had popped off -- very simple fix. Caused by soft valve springs and over-reving. Maybe a long shot but check for blockage in the number one intake manifold runner. Do you have the ability to do a leak down test? I'm not sure if that will show anything. What about a burnt valve or maybe a leaking head gasket? Just some ideas. Rick

Ash, Check out Quaife. They may be a good place to start. Also, Taylor Race Engineering is a specialist in many types of gearboxes. Hewland is another brand to look at. Best of luck, Rick

I have a pair of vice-grip pliers that works wonders on stuck line nuts without buggering them up. It looks like this: Just make sure they are clamped on tight and go slow.