hmsports

I'm not sure the best grind to get, but make sure to get a solid cam, not one that is drilled, and make sure to have a cam oiler installed on the cam towers. The drilled cams are not as stout and can twist at high rpms which results in the rear valves getting a bit out of time. I'm not sure how much of an effect this really has, but my engine builder is pretty adamant about this.

Jerry, I've always run a solid rear diff mount on my road race cars. With all the other high performance suspension items you have, adding one will not make the car ride any harsher. It will however keep some extra strain off your u-joints (I recommend Spicer u-joints btw). With a rubber mount there will be unnecessary extra movement in the joints -- which can only cause faster wear and possibly premature failure. I think it is the only way to go -- plus you won't have to replace the rubber ones as often. As far as the R200... I've been running R180s (have to because of the SCCA rules) and have never had a failure or any problems. My friend who runs a 280Z has had many half-shaft failures -- until he had them shot-peened. My R180 is a 4.11 from the front of an 84 4x4. It was welded into a full locker. I've been running it for six years with no problems and no maintenance other than replacing the gear lube once each season.

>Michael I tried using them after someone recommended them to me but the results always came out crappy... >Escanlon Thanks for the great and detailed information!

>Mike, That's exactly the point I was trying to make... a little more subtle though :classic: >Datzun76 For a light car like the Z, ArmStrong power steering will give you a much better feel for the track and what the car is doing... or is about to do over true power steering. Racing is all in the feel... it is amazing how subtle the inputs through a solid-coupled steering column can be. Much of that would be lost when you introduce a buffer like power steering -- at least on a road race car. I can see how a heavy NASCAR stocker could benefit from power steering -- mainly to fight fatigue -- but we all know circle track isn't true racing (no need to flame here.. I'm just kidding). The feel is also a reason why racing shoes have a very thin soft sole -- so you can feel the pedals.

Just got back from our family vacation to Florida. On Sunday, we ventured to Kenedy Space Center and met a 'real' astronaut... ok, I was just as excited as my four year old son. Anyway, someone asked if NASA buys all astronauts Corvettes like they did during the early missions and he fessed up that he has always owned a Z car... first one in 1971. He just confirmed what we all know -- Z's are out of this world!

The SU's have an aura of voodoo. They are not difficult to deal with. I know that ZTherapy does a wonderful job of cleaning, replacing bushings and the like, but I've found that taking the carbs apart and giving them a nice bath in carb cleaner and a good cleaning with a toothbrush... then replacing the jets (I don't use the grosse jets - just stock ones), adjusting the floats, replacing the float gaskets and fuel hoses (I purchased some aftermarket hose from a motorcycle shop in town) will do wonders. I purchased the rebuild kits from Victoria British (Ok guys, don't bother flaming me about VB, it's been done before) and just used aftermarket hoses. The rest of the stuff is fine -- and cheaper too. Just take your time. It's very rewarding. Rick

I was fixing my Son's swingset the other day and some yellow jackets had built a nest inside one of the legs. Well, my banging things around ticked them off and just like in a cartoon, I watched as this bee came flying out and head right for me. Before I could react, BANG, it got me right between the eyes. My Dad had an interesting bee story. He was a surveyor and one day while working in the woods in upstate NY, he tripped over a heavy vine that was hanging from a tree. Well, the vine was the anchor point for a very large paper nest -- about 18" across. My father froze and within seconds had the whole nest of bees (1000s) crawling all over him. After about an hour they calmed down and went back to fix the nest. He slowly got up and walked away with only about three stings.

Jeff Winter rallye/sport 7102 Raleigh St. #3 Westminster, CO 80030 303.427.0510 He builds some incredible race engines and is an expert with Nissan engines.

Phred, Wow, an H-Prod Bugeye -- didn't you need an extra quart or two of oil piped in from the cockpit during a race? :classic: (Sorry, just giving you a load -- those are quite beautiful cars) My crew chief has been a professional mechanic for several decades and has a personal friend who is an engineer at Mobil Oil. His recommendation, for my Z race engine at least, is to run non-synthetic 20w50. We change it after each race weekend -- totals four 30 minute sessions -- or about 125 miles -- mostly at 6500rpm. I know a lot of guys that run Redline and other high performance lubricants but I know I can't justify the cost. Our engine shows no sign of wear after eight weekends. I run 10w40 non-synthetic Valvoline in all my street vehicles.

That's a very nice and tight fitting cage. The only thing I would do differently is add a horizontal bar between the main hoop behind the seats as well as a diagonal that goes from near center/top of the main hoop to the lower passenger side main hoop. The horizontal will eliminate side crush and the diagonal will keep the cage from collapsing in the case of a side rollover. Quite impressive though on how tightly it fits the window frame and a-pillars.

You might be able to use the air from a service station. What you need is a tip on the air line similar to: . I'm sure a reputable place will let you borrow the air line or even do it for you -- if not free, for a couple of bucks. I've never tried any other way to get the piston out. This has always been the easiest. Check in your chiltons/haynes manual to see if it explains the process. Rick BTW - Sounds like you're a car guy's dream come true!

Ed, Even in road racing for open cockpit cars you are required to leash your arms to your harness. This is to keep them tucked in just in case you turn over.

My first experience with racing was as a crew chief on a 72 Camaro that we built to run at Colorado National Speedway -- a 3/8 mile paved oval. Talk about fast! It was pretty exciting to see some of those late models crank around there. But, my true love is road racing. With oval racing its... gas, lift, left, gas, lift, left ... repeat ad nauseum. At least with road racing you have to be able to shift and heel-and-toe and think about more than just four turns.

If the PO in fact opened the caliper (taken it apart), that isn't good. I've ready that you should never do that. You can get remanufactured calipers from MSA for $62.34 each side -- or $59.95 from Victoria British. Or you can get used ones from the junk yard for a few bucks and rebuild them with a kit that costs about $12.95 that does both sides. As long as the pistons and bores are not pitted or worn excessively it is a good way to go. You will need some compressed air to get the pistons out.

These are very good ratios for road racing especially. One of the biggest advantages you can have is getting the jump on someone coming out of a corner. I've been running 4.11 and even with a less than killer engine, I can out power many cars in the corners. I agree that they may be a bit much for the street.

Search for the thread titled 'Brake Bleeding - Do it yourself'. There is a good discussion of how to bleed your brakes...

I've found that spending the money on suspension before an engine prep is a good thing. A car with a great suspension that is tuned will take a car with a less-than great suspension but with a killer engine. I raced for four years on a $75 engine I swapped out of my friend's street car. I spent the time and money making the car handle -- installed the ground control suspension -- and I was running top ten overall every race -- and have at least fifteen top three trophies to show -- and three first place. Once I got my car handling and felt comfortable driving, I dropped about $3K into a prepped engine and exhaust. I was able to out power a lot of cars now -- but the suspension (and my driving ability) was there too. I wouldn't spend the money on a ground control set-up again. You can find the parts you need from other sources cheaper. The coil-over kits are available from a lot of circle track catalogs. The camber plates are about the hardest thing to find. I had the ground control set and I didn't care for how they bolted in. I'm going ot use weld-in plates from now on. I would go with the two-way adjustable Koni inserts. The Tokicos don't last if you have stiffer than 200# springs -- or if you have a tendency to take a few off-track excursions. A good adjustable anti-sway bar is a must when you start getting competitive. They aren't cheap, but will help get things dialed in. For starters to save money you can get used non-adjustable bars. I used to use the Performance Friction brake pads (one of the Porche models fit if you oblongated the holes). They aren't available any more -- too bad because they were great. I've tried Porterfield and not had good luck. The Hawk blue pads are what I use and seem to do ok. They get soft after a while if you don't duct them well. Replace the T/C rod bushings with the aluminum/delrin set. Replace the diff mount with a solid one. Upgrade to Spicer u-joints. Have fun!

A friend of mine has a new Mini. He likes it a lot -- except the shifter linkage problem that they have recalled the car for. Seems that it breaks easily. He's owned a ton of cars -- used to race a 240 back in the 70's. Has a Mercedes 300SL (non-gull-wing version), a BMW 2002TI, has raced Porches... anyway, he knows performance and handling cars. With all that said, he thinks its a great little sporty ride.

I'll only talk about my street car budget -- not the race car's... I purchased a clean '71 for $750 here in St. Louis -- absolutely no rust -- it was sitting inside an auto repair shop for about four years after sitting outside for about four -- car was left there after a brutal divorce -- the husband wanted to spite his ex-wife so he gave the title to the owner of the shop. Anyway, the interior is missing with the exception of the seats and dash. My budget has included just parts to get it on the road: Clutch master and slave, brake master, caliper repair kit, rear wheel cylinders, all four brake hoses, clutch hose and Crane XR3000 EI with PS-91 coil. All the hoses, fuel lines, plugs, cap/rotor and wires were replaced by the auto shop before the big battle. So far I've spend about $400 on parts. Oh, plus I'm using a spare Holley Blue fuel pump -- normal cost about $90. Eventually, I'll replace the seats and put an interior in it -- right now I just want to get it running.

My experiences with Auto-O-Zone have always been horrible. I think the folks that couldn't get a job at Taco Bell end up there. My Napa experiences are usually favorable. But as of late, I frequent the local parts store as they are friendly and if they don't have the part, they can usually get it same day. Plus I would rather keep those guys in business so they don't put in another pawn shop or pay-day loan.

How much?

I've used a standard 1/2" ratchet from the top -- but then I'm not running the stock fan. Try coming in from the driver's side. You may have to support the car on jack stands and get it from below. I usually end up with some nice cuts on my hands from the radiator fins.

Looks like you have your own version of a 'fair-lady' on your avatar (I may be using the term Lady pretty loose here)

There is a 26mm bolt on the crank pulley - the bottom most pulley on the engine -- and use a long breaker bar. The fan is on the pulley for the water pump. The crank rotates clockwise -- looking from the front of the engine. The distributor rotates counter-clockwise. Just for fun... The firing order is: 1-5-3-6-2-4. A cylinder fires every 120 degrees of rotation. 1@0, 5@120, 3@240, 6@360, 2@480 and 4@600 And hey, we all started somewhere -- and yes, some of us are still dufuses :classic:

I've always just carefully popped a corner piece off and then lifted an end out with a screw driver and then pulled it out. Pull outward, don't try to slide it out the end. The chrome piece thats goes on the drip edge is a little tricker to pry off without putting little dents in your roof. Take your time.