hmsports

I installed one on my 71. It was pretty easy. I haven't had a chance to get things started yet -- I need to get my fuel pump installed.

Alan, I always read your posts with great interests -- your knowledge of the Z and it's history is amazing! I'm interested in a set for my E-Production race car. The ones pictured above look just like what I'm interested in. Thank you. Rick

I don't know what the fuel filter would do except make sure the spilled fuel is clean :classic: (sorry, couldn't resist) Racer Parts Wholesale has check valves specifically for this use (just thought about it and looked in their catalog). It's a 1/2" vent check valve that offers positive shutoff. Uses -8AN fittings. Catalog number FSS-ITV08 @ $12.75 each. You may be able to find something similar at a local speed shop that uses push on/clamp fittings so you don't need to adapt to the -8AN fittings.

I've had similar issues with my fuel cell -- usually only when it is full or near full. My vent line runs along the top and down behind (I have cut out the spare tire well and installed the cell low and have a sheet metal firewall above it). I wouldn't think evaporation would account for any large amount of fuel through the vent. Try looping the hose up (maybe inside the fender well) before it goes down and out. It may be enough to keep any slosh from running out the tube.

I'd love to know where to get a set of these too, please...

Take a look at the head you may swap it out with. Look at the seats of the valves that are open -- and you can turn the cam with a large adjustable wrench (just make sure to support the ends of the head on 2x4 so you don't hurt the valves). If they are looking mushroomed or rounded then it could only help by having new seats and a good quality valve job performed. You can also see if there are deposits on the backsides of the valves (indicative of oil leaks and other internal problems). You can change springs yourself -- once the head is off the car. New springs from Nissan are less than $100 I think. It's so hard to guess at what a freshened head would cost. You can get a rebuilt head from MSA for $450. I would think it'd be hard to beat that at a local machine shop.

I would recommend replacing the head gasket. I think they compress when torqued and you may not get a good seal if you don't put a new one in. I don't remember what my rebuild book says about this. I've had rockers pop off from missing a shift and over revving the engine. Usually only if the valve springs were old and softer.

I've used both PPG paint and Omni on my race cars. The Omni is quite innexpensive compared to the PPG. The difference is that the paint guy told me Omni is more of a Tractor paint. It is less costly because it isn't as good. It looks fine when it is applied - especially if it is done with good surface prep and by a qualified painter. But it isn't as hard and I don't think keeps as nicely. If you aren't building a show car but just want a nice looking Z, I would think the Omni would be fine -- especially if you are on a budget. And yes, my first race car was painted with 10 cans of Krylon primer under 11 cans of Krylon John-Deere Yellow - looked great for a month until the sun faded it -- the corner workers used to call it the Butterscotch Turd.

If you replace the alternator, make sure to charge the battery with a batter charger, NOT the alternator as this may (most likely) burn out -- or cause damage to -- the alternator. They are made to keep the battery charged up, not charge a dead or severely weak battery.

I'm just guessing about any other differences, but I would think the only thing would be that the lever to adjust the back would be on the inside, not the outside.

Maybe you could give her a ride... or should I say a lift :classic: Dual friction clutches are quite pricy - about $450. If you aren't racing -- true racing -- I wouldn't spend the money on one. Get a CenterForce clutch pack for about $280 -- that has everything you need. ...and if you aren't rebuilding your engine at the current time -- including balancing -- I wouldn't spend the money on an aluminum flywheel. Of course, it's just my opinion. Spend your money on something else... maybe on a nice dinner for that lady... oh, and don't forget a few dollars for a dozen horses.

First check to make sure the slave is adjusted correctly. If it has been slipping, you have have glazed the disk and it would need to be replaced.

Check to make sure the points are opening when the engine turns over. If the hold down bolt has loosened, they may not be opening.

HANSON Motorsports was too long for people to type for a web site when I registered it many years ago, so it was shortened to -- hmsports

Engine: Stock L24 (can be bored 40 over - stock style nissan pistons), stock crank and rods, any 240 head - stock. Stock valves, springs, rockers, cam. No porting/polishing. Can be balanced. Stock SU's - can modify the needle only. Any header/exhaust. Any radiator. Can remove fan. Stock alternator, flywheel, starter. Can add a fuel cell. Can run any stock style oil pump (most run one from a turbo), can add an accusump. Any air cleaner assembly (no forced air induction allowed). Chasis: Lower to 5" ride height measured at bottom of rocker panel (not including vertical welded lip). Any anti-swaybars, can shorten strut towers and install coilovers with racing springs. Can install camber plates (or slot upper mounts). Can install excentric busings on front and rear control arms. Interior: Gut with the exception of the dash. Keep stock windshield, rear deck glass and small side windows. Can remove driver's door glass only (if roll cage extends into the door) Driveline: Stock transmission, any R180 rear with open, limited slip or locker. That's pretty much it in a nutshell

The nice thing about racing SCCA in the ITS category is that you can get into for a relatively small investment... as long as you don't expect to win. The intent of the IT (Improved Touring) class is to provide a way for low budget (or No budget like me) to race. Here's a quick breakdown of what it would cost to just get out there... Bolt in roll cage - $400-$600 Seat belts (5-point harness) - $85 Fire extinquisher - $20 Helmet/Suit/Undies/Gloves - $800 Tires - $600 So, for about $2000 you could be on the track. But one point of caution... This is a VERY addicting hobby. "The quickest way to end up with a million dollars in racing... start with two million!"

My first 72 240 was street legal (loosely used here - no horn or emission control stuff) and SCCA ITS prepped (again, loosely used - stock suspension). I used to drive it to work on nicer days until I replaced the suspension and added a full-locker rear. Has since been retired (crushed). My second 72 240 was SCCA ITS only. Also retired. My third 72 240 is being built as a an SCCA E-Production race car only. My 1971 is being finished up to use as my daily driver. Will slowly convert to daily driver/SCCA ITS racer. I don't plan on ever taking this off the street.

I averaged the cost of the five 240s that I have purchased over the last 10 years... 1 - $2500 - 1972 2 - $400 - 1972 3 - $400 - 1972 4 - $750 - 1971 5 - $50 - 1970 Total: $4100 Average: $820

Check the cable that runs from the transmission through the firewall and into the back of the speedo. It could be broken or the gears in the tranny might be stripped?

Si|v3r72> Instead of sending the fumes to be reburned, they are allowed to vent to the atmosphere (oh oh, here come the environmentalists). You could leave the vent line open, but you run the risk of getting dust/dirt/grit into your engine. This keeps that from happening. smg1404> You are correct that even though you aren't running in a dusty environment, you will still get dust and dirt particles into your engine which can over time cause excessive/premature engine wear. Your engine is simply an air pump that will suck up everthing it can -- right into your cylinders and then into your oil where it gets distributed and deposited throughout your engine. IMO, I'd spend a couple of bucks on a filter to save a couple hundred/thousand on an engine rebuild.

I'm 38 -- feel 48 -- act 28

This guy is one of the best... Jeff Winter 303-427-0510 (MST) 7102 Raleigh St. #3 Westminster, CO 80030 If he can't help you he can point you in the right direction.

Racer Parts Wholesale has K&N crankcase vents - they are $13.99 and come in sizes to fit 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and 1" vents. Call them at 800-397-7815. They are 2" O.D., 1-1/2" High. And yes, the fumes are supposed to go into the air filter box -- for emission control purposes.

In my opinion... unless you are always running in first, or very close to it, adjustable strut inserts are not worth the money. There are so many other things to do first that will make your car handle better. About the only time I've ever adjusted my shocks was when we raced in the rain -- then were softened all the way -- otherwise, they were always on hard. And yes, I've always run at the back of the front pack. Some day when the rest of my suspension is up to and I start running up front, then I may invest the money in some $400 each multi-adjustable inserts. Again, before I get bashed... adjustable shocks, especially two and three way are VERY important for tweaking those last few tenths out of each lap. Single adjustable inserts are a way to go from smooth-street to autocross/track day ready easily. Just my half cent worth.