hmsports

Pagasus Auto Racing has those types of switch covers for $12.95 each. You can get a complete switch panel that has the toggle with the cover and a push button start switch for $36.90. Here's a shot of it... Racer Parts Wholesale also sells another brands, Rebco. They are just a tad cheaper. Pegasus has real good quality stuff but they are usually higher. Racer Parts Wholesale is a great place to buy from. The only problem with those covers is that they are a bit touchy as easy to flip off. Sucks when you are cranking along and you flip it off by accident.

pun intended? :classic:

I will make some dubs over the next few days... If one of you guys from Australia can coordinate making copies and distributing them down there, send me a PM and I'll determine the shipping charge plus $1 for the tape. Derk and FinalAngel, also PM me and I'll send a copy to you -- shipping plus $1 each. Anyone else can PM me with you address and I'll get the shipping costs. You can add in $1 for the cost of a tape.

I called my Wife from work when I saw this thread and she PVR'd it from our dish. I can make a copies. If there is someone in England that wants a copy, I will make one and ship it off -- then maybe you could send it around or make copies over there to save on shipping from here. Same offer stands for you guys down under. And anywhere else that can handle VHS too. Let me know. Rick

Owenk is the (soon to be) proud owner...

This is my planned budget -- so far -- for the winter build of my E-Production racer. Not included was the $400 I paid for the car... Koni Adjustable Shocks -- 4 @ $180.00 = $720.00 Panasport Rims 15x7 -- 8 @ $180.00 = $1,440.00 Rims 15x7 steel (rains) -- 4 @ $75.00 = $300.00 Header -- $450.00 Adjustable Front Sway Bar -- $475.00 Braided brake lines -- $56.11 Button clutch/pressure plate assembly -- $450.00 Lightened Aluminum Flywheel Southbend Clutch -- $450.00 Tilton Brake/Clutch Pedals (dual-long) -- $199.00 Tilton Master Cylinders -- 3 @ $59.95 = $179.85 Tilton remote bias adjuster cable -- $44.95 Griffin Aluminum Radiator -- $169.00 Quick Release Steering Coupler -- $39.99 Oil cooler and hoses/connectors -- $200.00 Materials to build control arms -- $300.00 Used Front calipers 1980 280zx -- $40.00 Front rotors 1980 280zx -- 4 @ $44.95 = $179.80 Used 280ZX 5-Speed Transmission -- $100.00 Misc Bearings/Seals -- $100.00 Lexan for windows -- $100.00 Paint and materials -- $140.00 Rollcage tubing -- 100 feet @ $4.50/foot = $450.00 Kirkey Racing seat -- $106.00 Rollbar pad 15 feet @ $3.50/foot = $52.50 Transmission Blanket -- $80.00 Muffler pipe 2-1/2, Y-collector and 3" turndown -- $100.00 Goodyear racing slicks -- 8 @ $150.00 == $1,200.00 Hoosier rain tires -- 4 @ $165.00 = $660.00 Rallye/sport EP L24 engine -- $10,000.00 Total: $18,753.20 I'll gladly accept any sponsorship :classic:

Dude, There's no reason to get testy over this -- no body is trying to discount anything about physics here -- or what you are saying. We are all just adding our experiences and thoughts to the discussion. Good day.

I'm going to have to agree with 2ManyZs. Stay away from spacers if at all possible. They WILL load the bearings more and exert forces on the suspension that they were not designed for. pparaska's point of the contact patch being the same is valid - it should not change the roll-center or bump-steer. But changing the track by moving the tires out will affect toe and ultimately, bump-steer. As you move the mounting face farther away from the bearing and ball joint, regardless if the tire patch stays the same, you will be puting more stress on those components. Same principle as taking a longer grip on a wrench (spanner). You could argue about physics and theory all day... but as a racer I wouldn't use them. I've know several guys who do and they are constantly replacing bearings -- I only do at the start of each season -- and my old ones still look fine. For a daily driver, you would probably be ok. Especially since they might be your only choice to get the killer rims you want.

Go into a program like Microsoft Photo Editor and save them as a JPG file but set the 'quality factor' to a lower percentage. This will make the file much smaller. Try a few different values, like 50% or 25% to see which is the smallest but still looks good.

Be careful when shopping at Harbor Freight. They have a lot of cheap prices, but a lot of what they sell is cheap stuff. I buy a lot of expendable things like nitrile gloves. Most of their tools are on the lower end of the quality scale, but if you only use them periodically for shade-tree mechanic work, they will last for a long time.

I just got off the phone with Eddie from South Bend Clutch in Indiana. He gave me the skinny on button clutches... They are also called 6-puck or puck clutches. They will handle much greater HP and torque than standard type disk clutches. The problem with them for daily drivers is that they can cause excess wear on the flywheel and pressure plate -- especially if you slip the clutch at all. The clutch pedal throw will be about half normal too -- this allows for quicker shifts when racing. They make various levels of these types of clutches. Some are race only, some are ok on the street if you have a high HP engine like this car seems to have. Just don't slip it too much.

They do work very well. The second link you show is for the over-kill version for heavier cars. The first set would be good for you. Harbor Freight tools sells the same ones for $80 for a set of two. The only drawback is that you have to have your wheels/tires on the car. If you want to support your car on stands, it won't be mobile. Depending if you want to use them just for storage or to work on your car... I build stands that can be used either way. You can support the car on them by the tires, or place a jack stand on the roll-arounds and support the car on the frame so you can remove the tires and work on the car. You can see mine at Rollers. My design has changed since this photo was taken. The base is now a flat piece of 1/4 steel measuring 10x12" with a lip around the edge so the stand doesn't slide off. They are rated at 1000lbs per stand.

I've got this old surface rusted 6-into-1 MSA header with a slight flat-spot on the bottom -- agricultural racing incident. Free to who wants it. I have the 3-hole flange welded to a 2-1/2" pipe. I can include that too if you can't find one at a local auto shop Standard stuff - you pay shipping...

Welcome to the wonderful world of the 240! Spend a day reading through all the forums here and you will see that there is an infinite number of performance mods you can do your Z. You will be able to determine from them which direction you can and want to go. Also pay close attention to the threads that explain what to look for in the way of rust when determining if the car you plan to buy is worth it.

Need them? Let me know...

Free front and rear bumpers from my '72. Pretty good shape - I will get better pictures if anyone is interested...

I had a problem once with the fibre sock that is in the tank over the end of the fuel pick-up. It had deteriorated and was clogging the pick-up -- some times.

I took some shots of one of these custom built air dams... Installed Spare

My last 72's right t/c rod mounting point was completely rusted off. I purchased a replacement rail from Courtesy Nissan and cut it just forward of there. I cut the original rail off the car from that point back and welded things together with a sheet metal patch over the seam. I also had to replace most of the passenger floor - under the seat came from a donor car and was welded in - the foot well area was patched using 26 gauge sheet metal. Also had about 150 sq. in. of patch in the driver's foot well. Left rear quarter was replaced too. About 40 hours worth of work.

Z Used to be a club or restaurant in downtown - closed now Z One Thousand Seventy Seven Hip-hop radio station Z's Layouts Design Graphics

Which of the six tubes are turning color? If they are on the same bank of three cylinders, that carb may be too lean. If they are the #1 and #6, both carbs are probably too lean by a bit - these tend to get the hottest.

I've got about three or four sets sitting around. I can take a look for the best one that I would be ok with selling. We can discuss a price. Rick

See, that's the problem with having a welded differential. Thanks for pointing that out Royce. I guess you could get two friends to help spin I guess when I went to the junk yard to find my 4.11 it was on a shelf and I was able to spin both output shafts together.

Support the rear of your car on jack stands. Put a mark on the rear flange of the driveshaft then have someone turn a rear wheel one revolution. Count how many times the driveshaft goes past your mark. You have to kind of guess-timate from here. If it is just under 4 times, you probably have a 3.90 - if it's 3 3/4, then is a 3.70, over 4, then a 4.11, less than 3 1/2 - 3.36 - right at 3 1/2, its a 3.54. This will save the time of pulling the cover and the mess too. Not as accurate, but will give you a pretty close guess.

According to the GCR: Comp Ratio limited to 12.0:1. Cylinder head prep per I.T. specificiations except that the head may be milled to achieve max compression ratio (I.e. no porting, stock valve job, no chamber mods). Valve Life: .500" max. It can also be milled to utilize O-rings to replace or supplement a cylinder head gasket. You can change the cam, rocker arms, valves (must be stock diameter), guides, seats and springs. The bottom end can use a cylinder block from any model from the same manufacturer which is dimensionally identical. Can also have a billet crank, Corillo (or any type) rods, aftermarket pistons 1.2mm larger, aftermarket flywheel (same diameter - but can be lightened), any clutch assembly except carbon. Can use any oil pump including a dry sump. Also can use any type of windage tray and/or accusump. You can also remove the disty and change to a crank fire system. Someone gets a beer on this one... I'll buy the first round!