hmsports

How about: - Inline hydraulic brake system lock - Removable steering wheel - Master battery switch with removable key - Inline fuel line cutoff

When I was living in Colorado Springs in 1991 I was a member of the Ordinary Average Guys Precision Lawn Mower Drill Team. We won some kind of first place award. It started as a joke but ended up being the hit of the parade. We had about 16 guys all dressed in jeans, white t-shirts and baseball caps with our Ordinary Average Guys name on them. We were marching with (non-running) push mowers and performed numerous drills including mower-tip-cross-overs, a pinwheel, arrow-head and flying-x. It was amazing the cheers we received.

You mean there are things to read in Playboy? :classic:

Quad-Turbo V12 Concept Car from Chrysler:

1426 on my brake pedal. Nothing on the clutch.

Maybe I'll make patterns from my cage when I build it next month so I can custom make some weld-in kits for you guys. They would include excellent triangulation for the rear and NASCAR© bars. $650 plus shipping. Also, $50 from each sale could go to Mike for site upkeep. Thoughts?

What are they charging for a u-weld cage kit?

In two years they will have to deal with me

I guess then I should have said that a 240 was the first loser :classic:

Don't forget tomorrow on Speed the EProduction SCCA Runoff race - 2pm (EST) - 240Z comes in second!

Good advice 26th-Z. Once things are up to temp some guys will alternate between low and high RPM sessions during a single on-track session -- 10 minutes at 3000 and then 10 minutes at 4500 and then back down to 3000 for another 10 minutes. My engine builder says that is not neccessary. He recommends simply running it for 30 minutes not to exceed 5000 RPM. He said that if you keep things at too constant of an RPM the rings won't seat as well as they could. With my last engine -- full IT prep -- I simply went out for my first practice session and took it easy. The engine is still really strong and shows no signs of leak-down problem, unexpected oil usage or shavings in the oil. Slightly askew: Question: Do you know how to break in a new manure spreader? Answer: Take it out in the field and run the crap out of it :classic:

Looks like he got a little too excited while he was driving!

1997 Season at Gateway Dave, Me, Allen

Waited for the temperature to get low and then I used a ball peen hammer to bang on the floor to pop the material off. In less than an hour I was done -- without any scraping, chemicals or flames. I didn't hit things too hard so I didn't leave any dents -- just a couple of little dings that I could easily pop back if I wanted. I found about five areas of rust in the floor. Total about 1 square foot area. See all 9 pictures at EP-Build

Hood release assembly : $15.00 Pedal assembly: $20.00 of course they both are Or-Best-Offer

Remember to wear safety glasses when you pull the C-clips off as they have a tendecy to fling off at a high rate of speed.

He probably meant a CV joint -- which Zs do not have. I have used the same set of Spicers for years of hard racing (over 50 race days) and didn't break one until my cart-wheel acceident where the whole suspension was ripped out. I would highly recommend them.

That of course if because I'm reusing some stuff from my IT car such as: Engine and carbs Old header and exhaust Gauges and senders and I'm not going with fiberglass parts -- which saves another $1200 or so. The major cost savings come from not having to build a $12,000 competative EProd engine. I figure I'll spend a year or so getting used to racing slicks and also making the car handle well before I put more power to the ground.

My son's soccer season is over this Saturday (I'm the manager/head coach) so I've got until Thanksgiving to get the final gutting complete and the cage built. I'm working on a sponsorship proposal now also. The plans in place! I'll be posting pictures and all the details on my web site at E-Production 240Z Build. The link also includes my estimated cost calculator :disappoin

Probably one of the hardest things you will ever do -- trying to get sponsorship! There are a lot of books out there on the subject... try a google search or check out amazon. Some of the things you need to do are: - Figure out what type of companies you will target - Work up justification on why they should give you money/parts and more importantly, what they get in return - Detail a schedule of events you will be attending - Detail how many spectators they can expect at each event - Detail how their company/product will be exposed at these events and during off-time. - Explain why 'you' would be a good spokesperson for their company/product - Work up different levels of sponsorship -- Major, Title, Partner, Associate... each with a set cost and amount of signage on the car/suit - Present a professional apperance and attitude Take all this information and create a package that you can distribute. Don't get your hopes up too high on cold distributions at you will get less than a 10% callback ratio (most likely less than that). A short video -- kind of like an action packed commerical would be neat -- maybe even burn it to a computer disk that someone could run on a laptop. The best way is by word of mouth. Have a pamplet made that briefly outlines what type of racing, who you are, the different levels available, how many events and how many spectators. Make it clear and concise but professional with action photos. Have these handy to pass out everywhere. You need to get people excited about the type of racing you do. Talk to everyone about it. I've been racing for close to 10 years and over that time have had about 10 different sponsors. Most for about $500 - $1000 each. One was for $2000 and one for $7500. Total sponsorship income over the 10 years has been about $13,000. Not enough to run a great operation without a lot of personal out of pocket expenses but it helps. Best of luck

Try Spicer joints -- they are pretty bullet-proof

Panasport KSpeed <-- Prefer these guys... Mid-Atlantic Motorsports

Big difference I see is that the car is much shorter up front -- maybe they just had a 2 cylinder in-line engine :classic: Kind of looks like my first wreck...

Most of the aluminum radiators you can get are about $180 -- they do require you to fabricate some type of mounting brackets. Try Afco-Behrents... they have about the best prices I've found. The radiators are about the same width, but are taller by a couple of inches.