hmsports

The clicking is most likely your starter solenoid - the smaller cylindrical object on the top of the starter. This acts as a relay to send the high voltage to the starter. When you have this, and you've checked all the wires, sounds like you need a new starter. You can take it out and have AutoZone (or a reputable company - sorry personal opinion here) run a test on it.

This is the same as in my 72 - although mine is a bit sun faded and not as shiny

I'd guess it's the valve springs. They are a very weak point and if they are soft, your valves will float at higher rpm and keep you from revving. Try setting your advance to about 17 degrees at full rap and see if that helps.

They have E88 molded on them... the balance bar has some fittings missing and the water tube is missing. Free to who-ever wants it - otherwise it's going in the trash.

I think on the English 240-007 this was the villian (spouse) ejection lever :classic:

owenk, Is this what you are looking for? It is in my '71...

Well, for a '71 it will cost at least $1000.00:classic: I may have one for a 71 also - the whole thing? Let me know - same terms, free - you pay shipping. Rick

Do you need just the black top or the whole lever? I've got it all - let me know... btw, you can have it for free if you pay for shipping!

I've had good luck with mine by simply using some very fine emery cloth as long as the pistons and sleeves aren't too badly pitted or rusted. Try to run the emery cloth around the walls and not up and down. As long as the rubbers can keep a good seal, you will be fine. The $12 rebuild kits from VB work great. Take your time and do a good inspection first. I don't know of a good site, sorry.

Do a search in the forums for wiper motors/arms - there are a lot of posts about how to unhook the arms to make sure the motor is working and then how to lubricate them - probably your best bet.

If you have access to one, either an air or electric impact works pretty well too. You don't need to use any armstrong bars. I've also seen a unit that is a flat piece of steel plate that has a tooth cut into it and a hole where you can bolt it to one of the transmission mount holes and it will capture the flywheel. I remember it having some tabs that bent back to keep it from spinning. Here's a crude attempt at what I remember it looking like - should be pretty easy to fab up:

Looks like one from MSA without the air intake cutouts

I think what you will find without them is that on hard cornering, when your suspension loads, you will get an undesirable amount of excess toe in on the front wheels because as the control arm moves up, the tie rod in essence gets shorter. This will make your car understeer (push) through the corner. By adding the spacers and getting the steering geometry back to normal, you will keep the amount of bump steer to a minimum. On the rear, what you want to avoid is excess toe out as this will give you an oversteer (loose) condition. Since you don't have tie rods on the rear, it isn't a problem that gets worse with lowered suspensions. Just make sure the rear is even or about 1/16" to 1/8" toe in to help tracking. For racing, I run my rear toe even. The front I usually keep even for long tracks (fewer turns) or add a tiny bit (1/16" to 1/8") of toe out if there are a lot of corners - helps with getting the car to turn in and follow through. BTW - I ran for three years without spacers and my car is lowered to 5" ride height (measured at the lowest part of the rocker panel) and I had a lot of problems with understeer - even after working on all other variables.

Again, 2Many is right on with his knowledge... You know, I'm looking for a new crew chief :classic: Anyway, here's a very good explanation from LongAcre (at the Racer Parts Wholesale site). It explains what it is, how to measure it, how to trouble shoot it and how to correct it. It also has a great picture at the bottom.

Congrats on your new Z! Check the following for the carbs: 1 - Pistons move freely and smooth - and the damper oil is filled 2 - Choke mechanism works (it lowers the needle housing/tube at the bottom) 3 - Linkage isn't binding or gummed up 4 - Open the floats and check the jet to make sure it isn't clogged (or blow thru the inlet) 5 - Check the condition of the fuel delivery tube from the float bowl to the carb 6 - Check/clean the cylindrical filters in the banjo fittings on the float lid If these items are fine, I think you can skip the rebuild for now. Make sure you replace any fuel filters. Sounds like bad gas to me.

There's a lot of differing opinions on the subject of running a thermostat or not. Their main purpose is to allow the engine to come up to quickly, and stay at the optimal operating temperature - especially in cold climates like Rochester. Not running with a thermostat, some people believe, can make the coolant run too quickly through the engine block and radiator such that it would not transfer heat efficiently. Many people say that the 'too-fast' theory is a load of malarky. In racing, we take a stock thermostat and remove all the moving parts and simply use the housing as a restrictor. I would not recommend running without a thermostat in a street car. Have you checked the gauge and all of it's electrical connections? What about your water pump? Also check to make sure the belt is adjusted correctly. I don't think you could have a clog in the system if the temperature comes back down to where it should be. You shouldn't have a problem with intermitent 210 temperatures. It ususally will take more than 230 to hurt the head. (Not saying that the problem should be ignored).

Steppenwolf Born To Be Wild, 1968 Words and music by Mars Bonfire Get your motor runnin' Head out on the highway Lookin' for adventure And whatever comes our way Yeah Darlin' go make it happen Take the world in a love embrace Fire all of your guns at once And explode into space I like smoke and lightning Heavy metal thunder Racin' with the wind And the feelin' that I'm under Yeah Darlin' go make it happen Take the world in a love embrace Fire all of your guns at once And explode into space Like a true nature's child We were born, born to be wild We can climb so high I never wanna die Born to be wild Born to be wild

Front: Everyone Loves My Z... Back: Just Ask Your Girlfriend

I'm sure you checked/replaced the rubber hose that feeds the slave cylinder and bled the slave. The master cylinders are actually quite inexpensive. Make sure to check the adjustment of the nut on the slave cylinder too. Do you see movement down there when someone else presses on the clutch?

They will improve your daily driver handling if you drive the Z like it should be :classic: by eliminating any flex in the towers. Under extreme cornering the outside tower especially will deflect which will change your camber some. I'm not sure you would be able to feel it a lot, but it will stiffen things up. They are very inexpensive to build as long as you have someone to do a couple of welds.

V8-240Z, Those are some great pictures! owenk, I've always built mine with threaded spherical ends, one left hand thread and the other right hand thread. This allows me to tweak the strut towers in or out to allow for a small amount of camber adjustment. I use a straight piece of stout 1" round tubing which I weld nuts on the ends to accept the rod ends. Since it is straight, the ears that I weld to the strut tower have to be raised enough to allow the rod clear the valve cover. I grind two flat spots oposite each other in the center of the rod so I can use an adjustable wrench to turn it to make the adjustment.

EScanlon is right on with the purpose of the air-dam. You want to keep as much of the air from getting under the car as possible. A vertical air-dam with a horizontal plate, of at least an inch, going forward works best. It will force all the air around the car so none spills under. It is also important the the contour of the air-dam is extended far enough out that it directs air around the front tires. It is amazing how much flat frontal area a tire has that can cause a lot of air flow disturbance.

I've not seen any aftermarket cages that will place the knee-bar behind the dash. In order to do this, the a-pillar bars must extend further forward before angling down. The knee-bar goes just above the steering column. The bracket on the top of the column bolts to a plate welded to the bottom of the knee-bar. The ends of the dash as well as some of the supporting structure within needs to be gutted. I've build several cages in Z cars as well as other types. I'd be happy to discuss any custom cage ideas with you. You can see a sample of one of my cages at Hanson Motorsports Cages. I also build my cages with NASCAR bars.

I'm interested in seeing what they bend up for you. Do you know what type of steel tubing they are using? I build cages and am always curious as to what the other guys are doing. I've built quite a few for other cars as well as Zs so if you have any questions on some of the better ways to strengthen the chasis using a cage, I'd be happy to help you out.