hmsports

Picture of the 1971 Picture of the 1972 Picture of the 1965

A friend of mine just installed the ATL well-cell into his ITA Civic (about $360). The only thing with that is you can't move the center of gravity down like you can with a 'standard' style box cell. As far as the legality... all the GCR says is that a fuel cell that is exposed to the driver's compartment must have a metal bulkhead separating them. Most of the guys I know use aluminum for weight savings. That's what I plan on using. Another requirement is that it be mounted where the lowest part of the cell is no lower than six inches from the ground.

I've seen some guys use small diameter twisted wire cable to make droop keepers (looped them around and used crimps) for their springs so they stay on the perch. Dale Smith's E-Prod car uses them to keep the springs at the top so the caps on top that have bearings and the like for his camber adjustment don't come apart. He doesn't have to worry about the bottom because the perch is simply a flat plate without the stock style cup.

And the brake boost is gone too -- I'm going to use Tilton brake pedals and master cylinders that mount on the inside of the firewall.

The line from the fuel pres. isolator to the gauge inside the driver's compartment is filled with anti-freeze. This keeps all of the fuel inside the engine compartment. The isolator has a rubber bladder inside that transfers the pressure reading. The line from the isolator was much too long, that's why it's coiled up on the way to the regulator. There is a spin on adapter that threads onto the block where the oil filter goes. It has two fittings where I run one line up to the remote filter and then to the cooler and then back to the engine. On my E-Prod car I'm going to do things more neatly -- and use braided lines for the fuel lines too. Much safer than rubber.

Check out my ITS engine -- you can see that all I have left hooked up for tubes are: - From the manifold tube to the brake assist - From the valve cover to a dump can - From the crankcase breather to a dump can

Also check to make sure the push-rod between the slave and clutch arm is adjusted correctly. I've had mine feel like it needed a new clutch where all it needed was to have the play tightened at the push-rod.

I was layed off last Decemeber and was lucky to start a new job in January. I'm in the IT field in St. Louis and took a 35% paycut. That's the main reason my Z's are sitting there collecting dust.

"No, this isn't a legitimate quotation from the Quran (or Koran), the sacred text of Islam. The chapter and verse citation quoted above is a leg-pull, an obvious play on the USA's (the Eagle) launching of military action against Afghanistan and Iraq (the "lands of Allah") in response to the September 11 terrorist attacks on America organized by Osama bin Laden (the "son of Arabia awakening a fearsome eagle"). That the chapter and verse selection match the date of the terrorist attacks (9:11) is another giveaway to the joke. Depending upon which translation of the Quran one uses, the section corresponding to chapter 9, verse 11 actually reads something like this: But if they repent and keep up prayer and pay the poor-rate, they are your brethren in faith; and We make the communications clear for a people who know. "

I purchased a MillerMatic 175 this spring (to replace a 20 year old Lincoln 220 unit) and couldn't be happier with it. Another thing to consider when looking at a welder is duty cycle. The 220 units usually have a greater duty cycle and depending on what and how much you are welding comes in handy. As far as thickness, the 110 unit will work perfect for carts, stands etc. but if you plan on doing any heavy fabrication such as trailers, the 200 unit is a much better option. I ran my own 220 from my basement to a new box in garage and then to an outlet for my welder. It is a dangerous proposition if you haven't work with electricity before -- especially 220. Many experienced electricians have gotten bit -- and badly hurt (or killed) -- by 220. Figure several hundred dollars to have an electrician run a line for you. For a beginning welder like yourself, the 110 unit will be the best bet. Plus it is more portable and once you get proficient, you may be able to make a few bucks. Oh, whatever model you get, spend the extra money to get the infinately adjustable voltage control and not the one with the five position switch as you can get better control of the power.

Granted mine was a race car and as long as it fits the 50/50 rule it was fine. It took 6 cans of primer and 11 cans of color. Looked pretty good... for about a month and then the sun faded it terribly. Changed from bright yellow to butterscotch. Go with quality paint or else you will have to sand it all off and do it again later.

For SCCA Road Racing in ITS you need at least: - Six Point Roll Cage - 5lb Portable Fire Extinquisher - 5-Point Harness (not with Y-Style shoulder harness - shoulder straps must be separate) - Main Power Cutoff Switch - Window Net - Working Brake lights - All lights (except brake) must be taped over - Front and rear bumpers - Remove steering lock For E-Production you need at least that for ITS plus: - Fuel Cell - All lights must be removed (except brake) - Bumpers optional - Front and rear window clips - Front window cave-in straps

Replacing the hose and bleeding is exactly like it is for the brakes. About the hardest part is breaking the fitting loose from the original hose so you don't round off the 10mm nut. Make sure to flush the master and lines real well while you have the hose off too.

You are correct about routing a hose to get the freshest, and coolest, air from outside the engine bay. Check Race Parts Wholesale for their neoprene hose in different diameters. 3" at 10 feet for $49.99. Part Number: THENN-300. They also stock the NACA ducts that make a nice funnel style input area behind the grill. Although you can use dryer hose, just get the best quality you can so it will last.

I've read over the years some articles and discussions about ram air and the SU's. It seems that what benefits the SU's the most is simply a fresh 'cooler' air supply. There seems to be no benefit, and some say it actually hinders, using a ram-air setup.

I purchased my 4:11 from a local salvage yard a few years back for $150.00 -- from a 4x4. It is an exact bolt-in swap -- simply remove the rear cover and turn it 180 because on the 4x4 the diff is installed upside down compared to the 240. You also need to swap the flanges for the half shalfs. That's it -- the housing is the same.

There are a couple of things to consider when pre-prepping a car to build a race car... but most importantly is safety. I've seen Z cars raced where there was virutally no repairs performed on the rusted rails/inner fenders and you could see where the front cross member was pullling away from the rail. It was just a matter of time before a major failure could happen. As far as dipping/stripping, that is a matter of preference. Two advantages of starting with a stripped car is that there is not 30 years of crud stuck to the bottom. The second advantage is it is much easier to determine where a fluid leak is coming from. I guess if you were able to weigh the crud and original paint you strip off a car and compare that against what you put on you might save a few pounds... although sprung weight isn't the most advantageous place to save weight. Since there is a fairly good chance of crunching and dinging when wheel-to-wheel racing, it isn't really worth spending a huge amount of money on a primo prep and paint job (although I've seen those kinds of cars out there -- usually the guy has more dollars than sense). A good way to judge is by using the 50/50 rule. Does it look good at 50 feet and 50 miles per hour? To get back to your original question, I have always found the most solid tub I could and repaired any rusted floor and frame rails. On my second car I had to replace the whole right frame rail with a new one and do about 40 hours of floor pan repair. Ended up being the best and fastest car I had.

These should work well. A bit pricy but worth it ($75 each or so) I used the stock trumpets off the orange air cleaner backing plate by cutting them out.

What part exactly are you looking for? The face plate or just the mechanical controls/cables?

See pictures of many of the items at 240Z Parts For Sale. Prices may not be firm on all items -- so make an offer. The following parts were installed on the car but never used. The hydraulic components have never had fluid through them: - Crane XR-3000 Electronic Ignition. New. 70-73. $80.00 (MSA sells them for $144.00) - Rubber brake hoses. All four wheels. $30.00 The following parts are original and still on the car: - Side marker lights. 71. Excellent shape including rubber. All four corners for $30.00 - Fuel door with 1/4 turn latch. $5.00 - Chrome door frames including chrome strip on door. $25.00 - Chrome window trim for rubber and drip rail. $25.00 - Quarter windows. Both for $20.00 - Door mechanism. $30.00 for the pair - Wood rim style steering wheel. No center cap. $5.00 - Full wiring harness and gauges (minus speedo). 71 - manual transmission. $40.00 - Wiper motor and mechanism. $20.00 - Hood release mechanism (complete). $15.00 - Pedal Assembly. $15.00 - Toyo Proxes 225/50/R14 full tread tires -- less than 1 mile total on them -- $350 (includes 14x7 rims and new lug nuts) - Hood hinges and springs -- $10.00 - Air conditioning radiator -- $5.00 - Three stock radiators -- $10.00 each - Trouble light -- $15.00 - Mustard visors -- both in very good condition -- $10.00 for the set - Ignition with key -- ignition has been broken but the tumbler may be able to be swapped with another -- includes both door locks and rear hatch lock and one key -- $20.00 - Blinker switch and light/washer switch assembly -- $10.00 - '72 light/washer switch -- $5.00 - Gas tank, straps and vapor tank -- $10.00 -- needs to be de-rusted and coated internally - Door/hatch hardware strikers -- $5.00 for all See pictures of many of the items at 240Z Parts For Sale

I have a tank from my 71. When I flushed it, there were some larger flakes of the paint that washed out. I'm not sure about how rusty it is but I'm letting it go for $10.00 including the plastic vapor tank.

I am selling a never use rebuilt 72-76 master cylinder -- $25.00.

You can usually 'rent' these for free at the local auto-parts store. It may -- most likely will -- ruin the rubber boot just so you know.

Just springs and rubbers is all that came in mine. Was for a '71. Never did get the bottom half of the piston out. Had to replace it with a '72 rebuilt master and swapped the lines.

It is actually a 12 gallon ATL cell. A local ITA Civic racer here uses the new well-cell and seems to like it. Doing it the way I did allow you to drop the weight down and more to the right side which will offset the driver as well as keep the roll-center lower. I went with the 12 gallon in anticiapation of running some enduro races some day. For the local ITS races, I usually run around 6-8 gallons.