hmsports

Use a large pipe cutter and remove the desired amount from the housing about one inch down from the threads at the top. Carefully weld the pieces back together so the housing is perfectly straight. Use Tokiko or Koni inserts. I'm sure others will work also. To determine the amount to remove, take the new insert and place into the housing. Place a piece of masking tape on the insert rod at the housing cap. Lift the insert until it hits the housing cap and place another piece of tape on the rod. Measure the distance between the two peices of tape.

Measured, cut and ready to go Final setup before tacking Clamped in and ready to weld Installed. Ready to drill holes and bolt in.

Looks like Mad Max is closer to reality than thought :classic:

My tools are mostly Crafsman because I started collecting when I was in the Air Force and had little money for tools. My Dad gave me a few he has had since the 50's and even when I broke his 18" breaking bar a quick trip to the local Sears store and I had a brand new one for free. I do buy some cheap-o (Chicago Electric) tools like my 1/2" electric impact wrench. I only use it about two or three times a year (at most) so I couldn't justify spending several hundred on a quality brand when this was only $49.

I purchased my cell from ATL about four years ago for around $360. I know you can get Fuel Safe brand from racer parts wholesale. One note on installing the cell for SCCA racing -- the rules state that you must have a metal bulkhead between the cell and the driver's compartment. My cell will hang below the deck where a single sheet of aluminum will completely cover the cell. I will be puting a flapper door so I can get to the filler. Another thing. Since the pick-ups in the cell and hoses are quite large diameter, you will need to get a Holley Blue pump (around $100) to get the fuel out and up to the carbs. The pump comes with a regulator to get things down to about 6 pounds which is what my carbs like. They have modified needles.

Usually the equation: Vehicle + Beer + Torch = Darwin Award Winner! Luckily I did remember to remove the fuel tank first :classic:

Here's a picture of the one I'm installing... It's a rubber bladder inside of a metal case. There are foam blocks inside the bladder. The metal case helps to keep everything safe in case of an accident. If the metal case distorts or fails, the rubber bladder is supposed to keep the fuel inside. If it fails, the foam helps to keep the fuel from splashing about. ATL (Aero Tech Labs) which made my cell makes them for cars, planes and even space craft.

Started by cutting out the spare tire area. Will build the cell box this weekend...

I just purchased 100 feet of DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) tubing at 1.5" diameter and .120 wall thickness for my EP car. I could (if I read the GCR correctly) gotten away with .095 wall at 1.5". Oh well. Anyway, ITS and EP rules state that a 240Z can run 1.5" at .095 wall tubing (because of the weight)

Complete set -- front, rear and drip rail chrome trim that came off my '71. No kinks and with a little bit of polish and some minimal elbow grease they will look like new. $50 for all. Thanks, Rick

'71 tank with plastic vapor tank and inner fender metal cover. When I flushed the tank out there was a fair amount of scale from the paint on the inside rusting off. I'm sure a good cleaning and coating would take care of it. You pay $30 plus shipping from St. Louis (which is usually less than $20) Thanks, Rick

Let me clarify that 2Many... A FOUR wheel drift is desirable... a two wheel drift is not (just a lot of fun). I also love racing in the rain -- but I've never been able to afford rain tires so I have to slide around on my Toyo or Hoosiers. Makes for some interesting times -- espeicially like you said -- with a locker!

Always drifting during road racing. Great on Hoosier tires!

Sounds like you may have dropped a valve. Maybe broken a stem or lost keepers. The valve may be just dangling and being pounded by the piston. Pull the valve cover and take a look.

Isn't that because all of us Americans are so rich we don't change the oil, just buy a new car :classic:

I use four ratchet straps. I always 'X' them at both ends -- right front of car to left front of trailer and so on. You can get them for the best price from Race Wholesale. They also have a pretty good PDF file that explains how to tie down a car at Towing Instructions It is best to attach to the frame of the car. I use the cross-member up front to hook behind. I know it isn't optimal, but I hook to the control arms in the rear. Thing to remember is just keep things tight.

Aren't we all odd nuts?

Camber plates allow you to adjust the vertical angle of your tires. Positive camber is when the top of your tire lays outward and negative is when the top of the tire lays in. As a car corners, the chasis will roll to the outside. This changes the camber angle of the tires. Most performance and racing cars have between 1/2 and four degrees negative camber. This helps during corning to keep a greater area of the tire patch in contact with the road surface -- which helps to reduce understeer and extend tire life. It also may increase fender clearance on larger tires.

Several sources: Arizona Z-Car Motorsport Auto Ground Control ... Good luck.

I have managed to salvage the dash harness as well as the forward harness. All three harnesses (rear, dash and front) complete for $100.00. There is one contector for one of the rear side marker lights that needs to be replaced and one of the front light connector blocks needs a wire re-patched in. Other than that it is in very good condition. I also have a complete set of gauges to sell. Oh, I also have the flasher switch and other toggle switch too.

When you have the car started and in gear and let off the clutch, does the engine bog and die? Start by jacking both sides of the rear of the car and placing safely on jack stands. Try turning each wheel by hand and inspecting the half-shafts underneath. This should tell you pretty much where the problem is.

Toe-in 1/8 --> This is fine. It will help you track straight. Any toe out is usually bad as the car has a tendency to wander. Any more than 1/8 toe in may cause excessive tire wear Camber left -1 right -1/4 --> This is inconsequential for the most part. At least it is negative camber (top of tire leaning inward) which is better than positive camber. You may find that your left front tire may wear on the inside edge slightly faster than the right front -- or the right front may wear on the outside faster -- solution -- rotate tires every 3-5K. Caster 3 1/4" --> I'm not quite sure about this number -- as far as it being how far out of spec -- sorry.

How about 'pay some else to do it' for a choice:classic:

I always use a socket wrench on the crank and set the engine to top dead center -- including the cam to top dead center. Then I adjust the intake and exhaust for number one. Then I turn the engine using the socket until the valves for number two are both closed -- then adjust them. Keep doing this all the way back.

Here's a very good PDF file with complete instructions from G-Force on the correct way to install harnesses: Harness Installation Instructions