hmsports

There's a great article in the latest SCCA Sports Car Magazine about the useful life of belts. Sun has the foremost effect on belts. It seems that belts can lose more than 50% of their elasticity in just 6 months with direct sunlight -- especially when it is focused through glass. I know that I'm going to carry a towel in my car to cover my belts. If you want new belts, the guaranteed lowest price can be had from Racer Wholesale. They have 5 point harnesses starting at $59.00.

2Many is right on as usual here. The rail looks to be plenty strong -- the fact that it is sectioned and welded is of no concern as long as the welds are good. Yes, 2Many was talking about the weld to the floor which is more important because that is what hooks the rail to the body and needs to be strong to transfer and carry loads correctly. Over time as the body and rail flex a two sided weld will stay together but the single sided weld can seperate.

From the dash back (rear harness). Needs one new connector for the right rear side marker light. Other than that it is in very good shape. $75.00 (rear harness only) This is for a 1971, manual transmission 240Z. I may have the dash harness and the engine bay harness available also. Make me an offer on all of it. rick@hmsports.com

I don't think you could fabricate something like that on a stock Z tranny. You could spend between $5K and $15K on a sequential transmission from someone like Quaife or Hewland if you are so inclined.

Pull the valve cover off and see if a rocker arm has popped off. I've also had valve keepers pop out and then the springs and hat were rattling around with the valve just dangling in there getting pummeled by the piston.

Sounds like your floats are not adjusted correctly or the jets in the bowl lids are stuck open. Take off the float lids and check the jets to make sure they are free and not stuck.

I've always simply run a long bolt through a large diameter flat washer then through one of the end links of the lifting chain and lastly into the rear-most header hole in the head -- and at the other end, replaced one of the fuel pump bolts with a similar set-up. Done this at least a dozen times without ever hurting the head or threads.

A coilover is simply a name for springs (coil) that fit over an assembly like the Z strut towers. Most race cars -- and many street cars -- use adjustable coil over kits so they can adjust ride-height, corner weights and easily change spring rates. Here's a picture of a Tokiko coil over setup: Tokiko Illumina are simply a brand and make of strut inserts (shocks). Another (better) brand is Koni.

I haven't started working on it yet but since I'm mounting the seat to the cage and I can shift the steering column to the right about 4 inches, I think I shouldn't have any clearance problems. I'll keep you posted.

As the 'slow' build progresses, I will be posting complete and detailed pictures on my web site. I'll post the link once things get rolling. One of the first sections will be dedicated to the roll-cage build -- I'll be sure to include many pictures.

You know that MOPAR started out as the engineers saying they were going to build a car with <I>MORE POWER</I>, but the southern drawl quickly changed that to <I>MO' POWR</I> and then it was much easier to say <I>MOPAR</I> :classic:

Always been partial to Miller myself -- good ol' Rusty (the crusty dude)

Just got my Kirkey Ultimate Road Race Seat today. Here's some pics of the excellent quality throughout... Back detail. Some billet machined aluminum and the rest is punched/beveled aluminum sheet for extra strength. Very comfortable! Side with lower mountings. All billet machined aluminum. My Jr. road racer -- 4 1/2 years old -- (can't get too mad at him for his choice of drivers)

For sale - '72 heater blower assembly. $25.00

I managed to scrape up a small bit of money so I'm starting to build my 72 E-Production car :classic: Ordered 100 feet of 1.5" x .120" DOM tubing for the roll cage, 25 feet of 1" x .120" Chromoly tubing for my custom control arms and my new seat (I needed the seat first so I can make sure my cage is built to fit). I purchased a Kirkey Ultimate Aluminum Road Race Seat from i/o port racing in CA. Next step is to take my new Millermatic 175 over to my crew chief's shop to build the cage. I'll post pictures as I progress.

I always use an aluminum Griffin radiator -- as 2Many states, the Chevy version so the water ports are in the correct location. Check with Afco-Behrents -- they have the best prices - $179. I have never had cooling problems with my car -- even at 6800 RPM for 40 minutes at a time. I do run a small oil cooler which helps. My water temp is always less than 200 degrees.

One of the most impressive Rue Goldberg's I've ever seen!

1. SCCA SportsCar 2. Grassroots Motorsports 3. Wheelspin - St. Louis SCCA Region's Newsletter 4. About a dozen racing/parts catalogs -- I read them like magazines because I can't afford to order anything from them :classic:

It was a ZX! Not a 240 -- so that's ok

Contact Courtesy Nissan in Texas. They have the complete frame rails and will give you a discount for being in a Z club

Repair panels. New. Door skins each $15.00. Rear quarters each $25.00

Some nicks - one with 710 cap :classic:. $10.00 each

Off a '72. Dirty but in great shape. $5.00

Two pair of slightly used Blue Coil 10x2.5" racing springs. One set is 500 pounders, the other 550 pounders. I also have two pair of brand new in the box 450 pound springs. $50 for each pair of used springs and $75 for each new pair.