hmsports

My Wife just got a catalog from a company called Betty's Attic - they sell memorabelia toys. Anyway, right on the cover is an orange 240! Here's the photos and copy from the catalog: Die Cast 1972 Datsun 240z Item No. 25482 Known as the "poor man's Jaguar" for its long, flowing lines, the 240Z, produced by Nissan for the road rally circuit, won its class in Sports Car Club of America competition three years running. Our die cast metal and plastic rendition of this automotive classic features opening hood and detailed engine, opening doors and detailed interior, moving steering wheel and tires and opening rear hatch. Colors may vary, our choice, please. 1:18 scale. 8.75" long. Their web site is: www.bettysattic.com They say the color's vary and are their choice - maybe if a few of us order them and then we can swap to get the color of choice...

All this talk about tranny's, straight 6s, V8s and swapping... I'm not going to be able to surf at work any more :classic: The great thing about America is freedom of choice - if you want a V8 in your Z - go for it.

When you were fiddling, did you adjust any of the screws or knobs on the carbs? Also, are the choke cable screws tightened back down? Move the choke cables through their full open/closed settings and make sure the nozzle underneath the carb moves down when the choke is open and up when closed. Remove a couple plugs and see if they are really wet with gas too. If they are, remove all the plugs and let things air out for a while.

Late 60's and early 70's muscle car from Chevrolet...

What head casting is on the engine? I'm looking for E31. Are the carbs three or four bolt? What is the intake manifold casting number? I'm also interested in an R180 with 3.7 or 3.9 gears. Thanks, Rick

Is your car bone stock or souped up? Consider the HP/Weight ratio of your car to the car you are racing and be realistic in your expectations. A lot will depend on how much you feel like tearing up your machinery. There's a definate power band for your car... in each gear. Best thing to do is find a safe place to do some experimenting. Rap up your car in each gear to learn the sound of the engine and the feel of the pull. You can tell when the engine gets flat and is no longer in the power band. Try shifting up at different RPMs (say in 100 RPM increments) down from these realistic maxes for each gear. Listen and feel how the car accelerates from each of these shifts to determine the optimal max RPM for each gear. Never slam the gear shift. Cup the shift knob in your hand - don't have a death-grip on it. Practice counting in your head... 1 as you disengage and go through neutral and then ...2 as you slip it into gear - this will help you get into a rythm - almost two distinct motions. I've been taught to treat the gear shift knob like it was an egg. You will be surprised but as in all racing - smooth is fast. If you have a good clutch - and don't mind a lot of wear on the tranny and engine, rap the car up and dump the clutch. Practice this to find the best RPM where you don't end up just spinning your tires. Be careful not to slip the clutch too much. Again, be smooth. Remember... racing is hazardous - not just to your car, but more importantly to you and others - and should be kept on the track. Now, this is just my opinion - that, along with $3.25 will get you a small Starbuck coffee - so take it for that. You will get a hundred different opinions on this one...

I'm looking for front and rear fiberglass fender flares or complete flared fenders - they can be used if in good or repairable damaged shape. Or if anyone has a good source - Japco and Arizona Z Car seem to be out of the Z car fiberglass business. Thanks, Rick

I have an extra rear suspension that is just sitting around from a 72 240. I'd be happy to send you the part you need if you give me some more information (maybe a picture) of what you need - free of charge - you pay shipping. Thanks, Rick

There's a new place near St. Louis called 100 Acre Wood where they started holding rallyes. There weren't any Z cars entered, but it is pretty new around here. 100 Acre Wood

Seems that an early 240 (69/70) in near perfect shape would easily fetch $3900. Do a search in the forums area - there are a lot of threads that explain what to look for. One in particular is titled "I want to buy a 240z...what should I look for?". There are a couple of responses about rust. If you are not worried about a perfectly stock Z, you shouldn't have to worry if the suspension replacement parts are aftermarket. Good luck and welcome to the wonderful world of the Z

according to the parts you can get from VB and MSA, all the strikers/rubber/hinges/window trim/glass are advertized as 70-78 as the same part number. Also, MSA shows the tailgate for 71.5-78 as the same part number - for $688.08 (wow). Let me know.

Ok then, how about these items to check in the rear... Mustache bar bushings Half shafts for play Differential carrier bearings worn Rear wheel bearings Brake drums out of balance - maybe some fins are missing or the counter-weight plug is missing Toe is off Check the screw-in cap on top of the right rear strut - maybe it has worked out and the strut insert shaft is wobbling Check strut inserts to make sure they good Control arm busings for wear Half shaft u-joints Maybe if the half shaft were out before the mounting plate where they mount to the pumpkin or wheel is cocked a bit Check that all bolts holding the control arms are tight If there is a rear sway bar, make sure it's mounts are good - and that it isn't binding Check the strut-mount insulator There's not much else that I can think of.

I thought 240-280 had the same body - so if a 72 240 rear hatch will fit, you can have one for free - just been sitting around - you pay shipping. It is in excellent shape... Rick

If you aren't worried about killer performance off the line, the 3.36 is a fine ratio. And you will get better MPG and lower RPM while cruising. Is your 4.11 a limited slip? If so, would you like to part with it? Do you have a 3.36 to replace it with? Thanks, Rick

You are too darn good 2Many! I forgot about the throw-out bearing :stupid:

Has the shake gotten worse recently? Or has it always shaken the same since you got it? Is the vibration felt in the steering wheel or where? I'm not sure all the things the shop checked, but here's a list of items that could make a shake in the front end... Ball joints Tie rods - both inner and outer Tension Control arm rubbers worn Steering rack rubbers worn or lose Strut tower topper may be worn or lose (not likely) Control arm busings Spindle nut lose Wheel bearings worn Incorrect toe I'm sure you've rotated your tires but maybe it's a bent/out of round rim. Was the car involved in an accident before you purchased it? More details may help. Rick

At least you know it's not a bomb :classic: Couple of questions... 1 - Is the car driven hard? 2 - Are the shift smooth or are they slammed? 3 - Is the gear lube level up? 4 - Does the gear lube smell burnt or is it discolored? 5 - Can you hear the tick in third and fourth - or just first and second - or can you not hear it because of engine/road noise? Things to check... First check the gear lube level and condition. While driving in frist and second, lightly move the gear shift lever fore and aft (without chaging gears). Does the ticking change tone or get louder/softer? If so, it may be bent shift forks. It doesn't sound like bearings. It could be bugered up gears or synchronizers. About the only way to check is to tear it apart. Now, it also may be something with the clutch. Make sure the slave cylinder shaft is properly adjusted for free-play. It could be something on the clutch that is lose - maybe a spring or pad rivet. Hard to believe but you never know.

I'm also bored at work so I thought I would make your picture a little more ZCar Club Friendly... (please ignore that fact that your calendar now shows each week having eight days)

Ok, you can call Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies at 800-688-6946. They carry the Borgeson splined steering column universal joints that range from $61-$95. You can also contact Borgeson directly - they may be able to provide you with more options and maybe a better price. 2Many's suggestion of a local farm implement store may prove to be your most cost effective method. Hope that helps a bit.

I'll check some racing catalogs I have - but i have seen some of these for stock cars and other custom built racing cars... will post the numbers later.

The Eastwood company makes a vinyl eraser attachment for an electric drill, part #37023-A that makes removal of the stickers easy. They are at Eastwood

From what I understand Arizona Z Car is selling all their body kit molds too - $30K buys it all.

The stock air cleaner assembly has built in air horns. I've seen aftermarket horns but they are very similar to the same size and shape - just more rounded all the way down. I don't know if you would notice any improvement - it is most likely one of those you could only measure on a high-dollar engine dyno. This of course is just my opinion - I am no expert in air flow dynamics. I use two separate aftermarket air filters in which I have taken a stock backing plate and cut out the air horns and bolted them inside.

I got so fed up once with one of mine I took at 12# sledge and cracked it good - popped right off! Now, I wouldn't recommend this - unless you are replacing the drums.

As long as you don't extend the intake beyond the bodywork and make any new holes in the body or frame, you can get away with it. Always a way to push the limits :classic: