hmsports

Looks like a super fun track!

The buckets and notcher have been spoken for...

I think it was for a pre-heat duct from the headers for cold weather.

Also sold... 1 - Rear hatch and door rubber Here's a deal... Who wants a low-buck tubing notcher for FREE (you pay shipping)? First response gets it. It also includes the angle iron feet and the handle. This can be used to notch tubing to make a cleaner fit for welding. Also for FREE (again, you pay shipping) the two headlight buckets. Better in your garage than in my trash! Thanks for helping out. Rick

See pictures of many of the items at 240Z Parts For Sale. Prices may not be firm on all items -- so make an offer. 1 - Toyo Proxes 225/50/R14 full tread tires -- less than 1 mile total on them -- $400 (includes 14x7 rims and new lug nuts) 2 - Hood hinges and springs -- $20.00 3 - Air conditioning radiator -- $15.00 4 - Three stock radiators -- $15.00 each 5 - Trouble light -- $20.00 6 - Pedal assembly -- $20.00 7 - Complete hood release assembly -- handle, cable, outside -- $20.00 8 - Mustard visors -- both in very good condition -- $20.00 for the set 9 - Ignition with key -- ignition has been broken but the tumbler may be able to be swapped with another -- includes both door locks and rear hatch lock and one key -- $40.00 10 - Blinker switch and light/washer switch assembly -- $20.00 11 - '72 light/washer switch -- $10.00 12 - Gas tank, straps and vapor tank -- $20.00 -- needs to be de-rusted and coated 13 - '71 Wiper motor and internal wiper arm assembly -- very strong motor -- $35.00 Thanks, Rick 314.785.2661 (7am-2pm CST) if you have any questions

Not sure if I want to part with them (or what they are worth) but here they are... all metal except the round hood emblem. The rear deck 240Z has some dings on it and the paint on all of them needs to be re-done. The two fender emblems have all the pegs complete. The hood emblem's pins (plastic emblem) are about half long and the rear emblem's pegs are missing.

I'm getting rid of just about everything but the shell... just ask -- I may have it for sale...

No dents or dings, just dirty...

I'll post some tonight

I'd have to agree with 2Many. You want to get the exhaust out of the system as quickly as possible. It sure looks like the cork-screw shape would create a bit too much back pressure -- it's more of a gimick than anything -- in my opinion. While Z cars require a bit of back pressure, too much will choke it. I'd stick with a flowmaster or another proven muffler.

$10 and it's yours. Good condition

The reason DOM is more expensive than ERW is the process by which it is made. ERW has a seam that runs down the length and during heavy forces -- such as a major rollover -- it can split at the seam. The SCCA mandates that ERW tubes used in rollcages must be 1 3/4" by .120. You can get by with DOM of 1 1/2" by .095 to get the same -- or better - strength. Just a comparison. Find out about the horizontal bar the is behind the driver's seat. Is it straight across or does it have some bends so it extend rearward? If you are tall, it is nice to have a little extra seat room. The rearward bar also sometime can provide an easier place to mount your belts to. Another thing to find out is the height of the horizontal bar behind the seat when bolted in so you can make sure the belts as they run over your shoulders at mounted at the proper angle. Enjoy!

I don't know if they are made by AutoPower. Call I/O Port Racing at 1-800-949-5712. He has bolt in cages so I'm sure he has roll-bars available too. Also try Kirk Racing Products at (205) 608-1156. I'm guessing it will cost close to $300 for one. Let me know what you find out. I may be able to make a custom bolt in bar for a little less. Plus I'll donate 10% of the price to help Mike with the cost of this site.

MSA has them for sale.

What about fuel pump? At higher RPMs the carbs need quite a bit more fuel. Maybe the pump isn't keeping up?

The following have been sold: 1 - Both bumpers 2 - Front rotors 3 - rear wheel cylinders 4 - clutch hose 5 - clutch master 6 - Window regulators

See pictures of many of the items at 240Z Parts For Sale. Prices may not be firm on all items -- so make an offer. The following parts were installed on the car but never used. The hydraulic components have never had fluid through them: 1 - Brake Master Cylinder. New/Rebuilt. 72-76. $30.00 2 - Clutch Master Cylinder. New. 70-78. $20.00 3 - Crane XR-3000 EI. New. 70-73. $100.00 (MSA sells them for $144.00) 4 - Rear hatch body rubber. New. Has a small tear (see photo). $20.00 5 - Two Rear wheel cylinders. New. $25.00 each 6 - Rubber brake hoses. All four wheels. $40.00 7 - Rubber clutch hose. $10.00 8 - Front rotors. $25.00 each The following parts are original and still on the car: 1 - Rear Bumper. 71. Very good shape. Rubber still good. $75.00. Includes all mounting brackets. 2 - Front Bumper. 71. Straight. Has some surface rust and one spot (4" diameter) that is rusted/flaked through the chrome. Rubber still good. $35.00. Includes all mounting brackets. 3 - Side marker lights. 71. Excellent shape including rubber. All four corners for $40.00 4 - Fuel door with 1/4 turn latch. $10.00 5 - Chrome door frames including chrome strip on door. $75.00 6 - Quarter windows. Both for $40.00 7 - Wiper arms. $2.00 each. 8 - Left door rubber. Excellent condition replacement. $15.00 9 - Two right front light buckets. $5.00 each 10 - Window regulators. $30.00 for the pair 11 - Door mechanism. $75.00 for the pair 12 - Wood rim style steering wheel. No center cap. $10.00 13 - Full wiring harness and gauges. 71 - manual transmission. $75.00 Misc - Tool 1 - Lo-buck tubing notcher. $10.00 Misc - Other 1 - Door/hatch hardware such as strikers, latches, etc. - make offer See pictures of many of the items at 240Z Parts For Sale.

No end links or bushings, just the bars... 1" Front : $30 3/4" Rear: $25 Thanks, Rick

Another good cleaner for gummy stuff is Denatured Alcohol (also known as Wood Alcohol). It isn't as harsh as others.

One thing to think about is the amount of force exerted on shifters and the strength of a bolt or threaded rod used to extend the shifter. Use at least a grade-8.

You would be best to contact the folks at the two places I mentioned to find out about what to really get. Because of the dimensions, I think you will need struts made specifically for the Z. I think they are interchangeable between the 240/260/280. If you are looking at doing autoX or simply just street driving you would probably be okay with Tokikos -- they are less expensive than Konis but don't last as long.

I've seen guys take shifter levers and heat them red-hot and bend them to the shape they need.

Selling my 72 shell -- $300 or best offer (located in St. Louis, MO) I was preparing this to build a new race car but have changed my focus to another car... Rust: - Right front frame - Repairable floorboard rust (does NOT need new floorboards) - Battery tray/inner fender needs repair (not bad) I will repair the rusted floor and frame areas for an additional $300 if you wish. Car has been gutted for the most part: - No dash - No electrical harness - No marker lights All of the glass is in good shape. The body is straight with only a few small dings. One of the fiberglass light buckets has a quarter size hole in it. No engine (well, it has a rusted up block in it). *-*-*-*-> More Photos <-*-*-*-*

You need to get the inserts first. Some of the inserts such as Konis are a real tight fit so you have to be VERY careful of making sure things are straight when you weld the housing back together. For Koni inserts or more detailed information, contact True Choice or Ground Control. Each brand of insert may have a slightly different length.

Craig, I've used my Blue pump for about four years of racing. Each race lasts about 30-40 minutes. I guess there have been more than 25 races total. I have not had it fail or faulter. I do plan on running a second blue pump on this car that will be manually switched in case I do have a failure. This will require a T-fitting and some one way inline valves. I plan on running all my lines within the car -- including brake lines -- since my car will have limited ground clearance and I don't want to take a chance of pinching or tearing a line when I do any 'agriculture racing'. The SCCA states that any fuel, oil or brake lines that pass through the driver's compartment must be at minimum braided. They recommend, and this is what I will use, is solid metal line.