hmsports

You need to keep most of the rubber. I've updated the picture to show the only part to discard -- the grey portion. The remaining 3/4 of the rubber is used to glue the windshield back in -- using the black silicone (shown in red). Once that has cured, create a fillet on the front as noted in blue (or purple -- I'm color blind so I don't know which it is). That's why I mentioned to be careful and not cut too deep. The yellow portion needs to be kept or there will be nothing for the windshield to hold on to. You can get rid of the silver trim -- it's the first thing I pull off my race cars. You can look at my photo album for some other photos of the car. The car was trashed in August of 2001 and I don't have one built yet to get another close shot -- sorry. Rick

If you are using this as an IT car you can do what I do... Take a sharp razor knife and carefully cut the outer half of the weather stripping around the windshield. Be careful not to cut too far in so you don't go through the back. See diagram: Make sure things are clear all the way around and then carefully, with the help of someone else, push the glass out. When you are ready to reinstall, simply use a caulking gun and some black silicone. You can make a nice bead around the outside. I always use 2"x1/4" aluminum tabs -- three across the top and one on each lower corner -- to help hold it in:

Do a search for previous posts on this topic. There are many.

Maybe try tightening hose clamps around the sway bar -- one on each side of the bushings. Or take a piece of 1/8" x 1" flat stock and bend it into a U shape. The ears will need to be short enough to not touch the sway bar and bolt it between the frame and the bushing perpendicular to the frame. The diagram below shows and end view without the bushing bracket: If it slides out too, you may need to weld a tab on top of the U bracket to capture the frame rail.

Found a Nissan commercial on the Z Association of Cleveland web site... Paul Newman Z32 Commercial

I guess then why should anyone spend a few thousand on an old Z that has old outdated technology? Its all in what you like. Oh, and many hardcore Harley owners would say "I'd rather my sister be a prostitute than ever ride a Honda"

I have a couple of brand new sets of racing springs. I can check the length... I know they are 450#. I think I also have a set of slightly used 400#. I'll let them go pretty cheap and I'll donate 10% to the club.

I would just need to buy some new dies for my bender. They would be specialty ones since I usually don't deal with anything larger than 1.75" for roll-cages. Dies cost clost to $200 each. I charge $45/hour for custom fabrication work. Depends on how many tubes and the complexity. If I only had to buy one new die I would eat the cost for that. Rick

I can bend 1", 1.5" and 1.75" pipe... send me the specs and we can discuss the details... I also can MIG weld... Rick

2Many -- I think a major difference is that our folks gave us love and attention... ...instead of showering us with money to keep us happy. And I guess we can look at it this way -- they are helping to keep the economy going! :classic:

Here's a question... If a married couple from Arkansas move to the Ozark Moutains in Missouri and get a divorce... ...are they still legally Brother and Sister?

From what I've been told, the HP to weight ratio of the 240 makes it more competitive than the 260. The 240 even dominates over the 280. I don't know from experience how much faster a 240 is than a 260 because I've never seen one at the track. I hope I didn't ruffle any feathers as my comment wasn't a personal slam toward the 260...

...I'm a little concerned that you know how much a penile implant costs... I've noticed here in St. Louis, especially the I-70 corridor into downtown, that things are getting closer to the way they were in Mad Max! And most people here act as though stop signs with white borders around them are optional...

Here's proof that even the Rolls-Royce isn't imune: And check out this Porche:

The 240Z has been one of the dominating cars in the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) Production and Improved Touring racing for 30 years. There is a Ton (or 907.19 kg :classic:) of information on suspension mods that can be done and how to tweak them to out perform Porche, BMW, Mazda, Honda :sick: and just about any other car out there in road racing. As long as you can put in at least a 6-point weld-in roll-cage and a front strut bar, the chassis is great. Lower the car to 5" (or lower) ride height, add some 2-way adjustable Konis, 2-1/2" x 10" springs (275# front, 250# rear), heavy (preferably adjustable) front anti-sway bar, rear anti-sway bar, camber plates, limited slip rear diff, urethane bushing, air-dam and have some fun. For a car that is as old -- well, I should say seasoned -- it does great! Oh, stay away from the 260 for racing -- the power to weight ratio is not as good as the 240.

...pony up $160K and buy one of these... 0-60 in 3.5 seconds Top speed - 200+ braking 70-zero in 149ft weight - 2200lbs -- MT900S Web Site --

Raise the right front and turn the tire by hand: - Maybe the brake pads are rubbing on the rotor if the rotor has some runout. - Maybe the baffle plate is bent and rubbing against the rotor. Check for anything around the engine pulleys that may be bent.

Who noticed the car when you had Daisy Duke to keep your eyes busy? Ok -- here's the General Lee: I believe they are called Vector wheels and you may be able to find some on the official (well maybe not official) General Lee web site... They have a message board with some for sale... General Lee Site Disclaimer: I have only ever seen the show two or three times when I was a kid. I just had some free time today so I thought I'd search the web.

I don't think their web site has been updated for a while. Try calling them in the evening.

Very clean and super fast looking!

St.stephen, I'm sure there is an F1 team that would be happy to sell you one of their cars

Try Doug Piner with Japco -- I know they had stopped for a while but were going to start making things again. From what I understand, you can buy all of Arizona Z Car's molds -- for about $30K.

Sorry for the obscure reference to a Todd Rundgren song... I got so frustrated once with my rear drums that I finally took a 12 pound sledge and gave a good whack right in the middle where it centers on the hub. It popped right off with no damage. I cleaned/sanded everthing and used some Molybdenum grease to keep it from grabbing hold again.

MSA in California has them either in clear or smoked for $49.95. They ahve the black rubber gasket and require no drilling do install. (800) 633-6331 or Motorsport Auto

But most snobby Porche guys (or any other power car for that matter) are dealing with a problem with their manhood -- or lack of. We all drive Zs because they are a true sports car and we love them... and we don't have to compensate for stamina that matches a top-fuel drag car's 1/4 mile time!