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Ksteve

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  1. Ksteve replied to NismoZ's post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    The regrind Delta did for me was a 280/280 duration (230@.05 lift). I had read a lengthly debate either here or on Hybridz about using resurfaced rockers vs. new, and to me it sounded like resurfacing was a safe way to save some of the parts expense. I have put over 5K miles on my engine since with no cam or rocker wear problems. Steve
  2. Ksteve replied to NismoZ's post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    I had Delta regrind my cam a couple years back to the same .460/280 spec. I have been happy with the change, noticable diffrence from 3500 and pulls hard to 6500 now. Idle is a bit rough and had to be increased to 1000. This was on an L24 with N42 head at 9.5:1 compression. They will regrind your cam and resurface your stock rockers for about $120, which I think is a bargain. They even got it back to me in about a week. The resurfaced rockers will require slightly thicker lash pads which can be ordered from Courtesy Nissan. Mine took a combination of .180 and .190. Hope this helps, Steve
  3. Ksteve replied to westpak's post in a topic in Help Me !!
    I should probably add that you want that cam lobe pointed strait up when you do the above, and when you make your final lash adjustment.
  4. Ksteve replied to westpak's post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Actualy the bottom larger nut is the lock nut, the top one is the shaft itself. Just loosen the lock nut by turning it counter clockwise, then you can rotate the shaft clockwise to lower it all the way down. Then you can remove the rocker by prying it over the top of the pivot shaft. This will alow you to put your lash pad back in position with the rocker out of the way.
  5. Ksteve replied to al'z's post in a topic in Parts Swapping
    Al, I have an N42 head on my 73 L24 block and am very happy with the combination, but it is not just a direct bolt on. The N42 has slightly larger valves (intake and exhaust) than any of the L24 heads and the valves are just barely to wide for the cylinder bore on the L24. If your block has had a rebore in it's past it may already have enough clearance but if not you will need to grind small releifs/eyebrows into the rim of the cylinder bore to prevent the valves from contacting the block. There were a couple threads here in the past describing the details, it's not as difficult as it may sound. As for cams, I sent my worn stock cam to Delta Camshaft for a slightly more agressive regrind (.460/272) and was happy with their service. It was relatively cheap, compared to an aftermaket cam, at about $70 and very quick service, they received, reground, and shipped it back out the same day. They will also resurface your old rockers for about the same amount. Steve
  6. Ksteve replied to helopilot's post in a topic in Electrical
    I would check with your local parts stores first, a rebuilt unit will probably be a better deal than a junk yard or ebay unit in questionable condition. I found one with just a couple calls about two years ago when I was looking. Beleive it or not it included the 12-80 module and a new vacuum pot for about $80, they even accepted my 240 dizzy as a core.
  7. Let me clarify. If you do use a SeaFoam type fuel treatment yes you definitely need to use up that tank of gas and refill before you get a smog check, I don't know how the additional chemicals will effect the emisions but it can't be good. A few years ago I had a 91 Miata that required testing at a "test only" station. It was well tuned and running flawlessly but failed the test only in the unburned HC category. Because this was a test only center there was no pre-test and the results were automaticaly forwarded to the DMV and the car was flagged as a gross polluter. I then had to take the test results to a different station to get advice on what repairs to make. The technitian recomended the SeaFoam so I tried it and it worked. The next test it passed with flying colors. BUT My car was now flagged as a gross polluter. Every subsequent smog test for it had to be performed at a test only center and I now had to have it tested more frequently. Darbji, this is all probably irrelevant to the state requirements where you are, but I think a lot of states are adopting requirements similar to California's. Stephen, I agree it is a big scam, and owners of older vehicles are the ones picked on the most. Steve
  8. Ksteve replied to Blue Meanie's post in a topic in Help Me !!
    The stock configuration is with the positive pole closest to the fender, the battery leads do not extend far enough to reverse it. I always thought that was a bit scarry. I have read in at least one thread of people replacing with longer leads and reversing the poles to make things a little safer.
  9. Darbji, In addition to a tune up and new ignition components as Dave suggested it would probably help to do a SeaFoam treatment especialy if you have high milage. Do the intake treatment as well as putting some in a half tank of gas, then burn through the tank of gas with some high speed freeway trips. Also, if you have the timing advanced set it back to factory spec for the test. I think that is another automatic fail in California. If possible I would just find a shop that will do a pre-test on it (not electronicly transmitted to DMV) to see where it stands. If it fails any categories the technitians will ususaly be able to give you some suggestions. Here in California the "test only" stations are not allowed to do either. Good luck! Steve
  10. Why not just shim the cam towers up to compensate for the amount shaved off? You have to use thicker lash pads on the valve stem but they are cheap, and you end up with a nice snug timing chain. Steve
  11. Ksteve replied to spursfan55's post in a topic in Suspension & Steering
    If you are talking about the locknut on the ball joint end as Nissanman refered to above I had the same problem over the weekend. The locknut on the new tie rod end was a nylock nut rather than a castle nut like the original. When the nylon part contacted the threads it just spun the whole bolt in the joint. I put a floor jack under the ball joint and put some upward presure on it, that was enough to hold the bolt from turning as I tightened down the lock nut. Hope this helps. Steve
  12. Ksteve replied to Ramses's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Sorry Stephen, thats one of my favorite Austin Powers scenes. Enrique, I'm not saying she isn't attractive but growing up in the SF area you learn to watch out for the Lolas. Plus the shot seemed a little campy.
  13. That's a great story Darbji, you're a trusting person. I first fell in love with Zs back in 1975 when I was in kindergarten. One of the teachers at the school drove a blue 240Z and parked it right in front of our class every day. I was hooked, even though it was another fifteen years before I would get to drive one I knew it was the one for me. My son Nate starts kindergarten in a couple weeks and I think we already have another generation of Z lovers started in the family. Steve
  14. Ksteve replied to Ramses's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    IT'S A MAN BABY!!! Nice looking roadster, I like the black/red color scheme but the Jack in the Box antenna ball spoils the coolness effect.
  15. Ksteve replied to Ramses's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I am 6'3" and I had a 67.5 1600 (short windsheild) throughout my college years and I definitely did not fit. Even after redrilling seat mounting holes as far back as possible my knees would rest against the bottom of the dash and my head stuck up a couple inches above the windsheild. I still loved the car though and commuted to school in it every chance I got. Steve

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