Ksteve

The regrind Delta did for me was a 280/280 duration (230@.05 lift). I had read a lengthly debate either here or on Hybridz about using resurfaced rockers vs. new, and to me it sounded like resurfacing was a safe way to save some of the parts expense. I have put over 5K miles on my engine since with no cam or rocker wear problems. Steve

I had Delta regrind my cam a couple years back to the same .460/280 spec. I have been happy with the change, noticable diffrence from 3500 and pulls hard to 6500 now. Idle is a bit rough and had to be increased to 1000. This was on an L24 with N42 head at 9.5:1 compression. They will regrind your cam and resurface your stock rockers for about $120, which I think is a bargain. They even got it back to me in about a week. The resurfaced rockers will require slightly thicker lash pads which can be ordered from Courtesy Nissan. Mine took a combination of .180 and .190. Hope this helps, Steve

I should probably add that you want that cam lobe pointed strait up when you do the above, and when you make your final lash adjustment.

Actualy the bottom larger nut is the lock nut, the top one is the shaft itself. Just loosen the lock nut by turning it counter clockwise, then you can rotate the shaft clockwise to lower it all the way down. Then you can remove the rocker by prying it over the top of the pivot shaft. This will alow you to put your lash pad back in position with the rocker out of the way.

Al, I have an N42 head on my 73 L24 block and am very happy with the combination, but it is not just a direct bolt on. The N42 has slightly larger valves (intake and exhaust) than any of the L24 heads and the valves are just barely to wide for the cylinder bore on the L24. If your block has had a rebore in it's past it may already have enough clearance but if not you will need to grind small releifs/eyebrows into the rim of the cylinder bore to prevent the valves from contacting the block. There were a couple threads here in the past describing the details, it's not as difficult as it may sound. As for cams, I sent my worn stock cam to Delta Camshaft for a slightly more agressive regrind (.460/272) and was happy with their service. It was relatively cheap, compared to an aftermaket cam, at about $70 and very quick service, they received, reground, and shipped it back out the same day. They will also resurface your old rockers for about the same amount. Steve

I would check with your local parts stores first, a rebuilt unit will probably be a better deal than a junk yard or ebay unit in questionable condition. I found one with just a couple calls about two years ago when I was looking. Beleive it or not it included the 12-80 module and a new vacuum pot for about $80, they even accepted my 240 dizzy as a core.

Let me clarify. If you do use a SeaFoam type fuel treatment yes you definitely need to use up that tank of gas and refill before you get a smog check, I don't know how the additional chemicals will effect the emisions but it can't be good. A few years ago I had a 91 Miata that required testing at a "test only" station. It was well tuned and running flawlessly but failed the test only in the unburned HC category. Because this was a test only center there was no pre-test and the results were automaticaly forwarded to the DMV and the car was flagged as a gross polluter. I then had to take the test results to a different station to get advice on what repairs to make. The technitian recomended the SeaFoam so I tried it and it worked. The next test it passed with flying colors. BUT My car was now flagged as a gross polluter. Every subsequent smog test for it had to be performed at a test only center and I now had to have it tested more frequently. Darbji, this is all probably irrelevant to the state requirements where you are, but I think a lot of states are adopting requirements similar to California's. Stephen, I agree it is a big scam, and owners of older vehicles are the ones picked on the most. Steve

The stock configuration is with the positive pole closest to the fender, the battery leads do not extend far enough to reverse it. I always thought that was a bit scarry. I have read in at least one thread of people replacing with longer leads and reversing the poles to make things a little safer.

Darbji, In addition to a tune up and new ignition components as Dave suggested it would probably help to do a SeaFoam treatment especialy if you have high milage. Do the intake treatment as well as putting some in a half tank of gas, then burn through the tank of gas with some high speed freeway trips. Also, if you have the timing advanced set it back to factory spec for the test. I think that is another automatic fail in California. If possible I would just find a shop that will do a pre-test on it (not electronicly transmitted to DMV) to see where it stands. If it fails any categories the technitians will ususaly be able to give you some suggestions. Here in California the "test only" stations are not allowed to do either. Good luck! Steve

Why not just shim the cam towers up to compensate for the amount shaved off? You have to use thicker lash pads on the valve stem but they are cheap, and you end up with a nice snug timing chain. Steve

If you are talking about the locknut on the ball joint end as Nissanman refered to above I had the same problem over the weekend. The locknut on the new tie rod end was a nylock nut rather than a castle nut like the original. When the nylon part contacted the threads it just spun the whole bolt in the joint. I put a floor jack under the ball joint and put some upward presure on it, that was enough to hold the bolt from turning as I tightened down the lock nut. Hope this helps. Steve

Sorry Stephen, thats one of my favorite Austin Powers scenes. Enrique, I'm not saying she isn't attractive but growing up in the SF area you learn to watch out for the Lolas. Plus the shot seemed a little campy.

That's a great story Darbji, you're a trusting person. I first fell in love with Zs back in 1975 when I was in kindergarten. One of the teachers at the school drove a blue 240Z and parked it right in front of our class every day. I was hooked, even though it was another fifteen years before I would get to drive one I knew it was the one for me. My son Nate starts kindergarten in a couple weeks and I think we already have another generation of Z lovers started in the family. Steve

IT'S A MAN BABY!!! Nice looking roadster, I like the black/red color scheme but the Jack in the Box antenna ball spoils the coolness effect.

I am 6'3" and I had a 67.5 1600 (short windsheild) throughout my college years and I definitely did not fit. Even after redrilling seat mounting holes as far back as possible my knees would rest against the bottom of the dash and my head stuck up a couple inches above the windsheild. I still loved the car though and commuted to school in it every chance I got. Steve

Good point Stephen, if your shifter has that much play in it those bushings should be replaced regardless. I replaced my original plastic ones with brass and was very happy with the improved shifter feel.

As Al said I would check the clutch. When the slave cylinder starts to go bad it will slowly leak fluid past the piston, not noticeable in normal driving but when you stop at a light with the clutch pushed in it gives it time to leak down. Check your clutch reservoir, I'll bet its low or even empty. If so it is a quick fix, $10 part, 20 min to change out and bleed. Steve

I spotted another 240Z while crossing the Benicia bridge on my drive home from work last night. Blue car with black/charcoal Konig type wheels. Nice looking car, awsome exhaust note. Was that anyone from this site? Steve

It also helps to warm up the engine before you begin, and hold the throttle open while you crank it over to free up airflow. Steve

By the way I am running an electric pump (no mechanical), MSD coil, e-ignition, Magnecore wires, NGK plugs with .045 gap, and compression at 170-185 on all cylinders and it is still a slow starter.

Does anybody here have an SU carbed engine that fires on the first turn of the key on a cold engine? Mine takes about five seconds with full choke. I never understood why it would take so long, I knew my float bowls were not going dry, but I accepted it as normal. Thanks for the explanation Dave, that make sense. Steve

If you are getting fuel to the banjo fittings but the bowls are not filling it is more than likely the needle valves are gummed up or clogged as JimmyZ mentioned earlier. These are the brass nozzel type fitting that screw into the underside of the float bowl covers. You can test it by taking the covers off and blowing into the fuel inlet tube on the banjo fitting. If you can't blow through them the needle valve needs to be removed and cleaned out. Hope thats all it is as that would be a quick fix. Just be carefull not to break the float attachment tabs if you do remove the needle valves. Steve

Did you check for any water in the gas? If it sat at the shop all winter it probably spent some time out in the rain. Steve

Years ago I had a similar problem on my Datsun roadster. It ended up that the hard brake line on one of the front calipers was slightly bent out, just enough to contact the inside of the wheel on a high spot as it rotated. Luckly I figured it out before it wore a hole in the brake line. Did you try jacking up the front of the car and turning the front wheels by hand?

Mike, I was having the same problem with my headlight switch and saw this thread yesterday. I took it apart last night, cleaned and switched the rockers, and now it is working great. My lights are even a little brighter. Thanks for the great write up! Steve