Ksteve

I put an N42 head on my L24 and yes you do need to notch the block at the top of the cylinder bores. I did a thread search under "notch block" and found some useful information/advice from Jmortensen and Pfred (thanks guys!). After doing some careful measurements I used a teardrop carbide bit in a variable speed drill to make the cuts into the rim of the bore. How much to cut depends on how deep your valves will protrude into the bore at max lift (what cam? head shaved? gasket thickness?) I am using a Datsun OEM "A" cam with a 1mm Felpro gasket. The cuts I made were about 2mm wide by 3mm deep by 2cm long and the engine is running great with no interference problems. You do have to be cautious about going too wide (beyond the edge of the head gasket) or too deep (within 1mm of the top piston ring max height). As a side note, I measured the position and size of the existing valve releifs in the L24 pistons and compared it to the N42 valves and they did not even line up due to the wider valves. When I assembled the head and block and rotated to check the clearances the valves had good clearance with the top of the pistons even without the valve releifs. I hope this helps. Im not saying this is the best route to go but I already had the good L24 block in the car and a freshly rebuilt N42 head. Good luck with whatever you decide on. Steve

The battery connections look good in the photos, but you may have fried something if you grouned out the positive lead on the starter body :disappoin Check the fusable link and all the main fuses, if all ok you might have to take your starter to the local auto parts store and have it tested. They should test it for free and this will tell you if you need a new starter. Make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal before you touch any of the wiring :paranoid: Good Luck Steve

Sounds like a good deal to me, especialy if that included shipping. I like those wheels, nice old school look:smoke: . I think I need some on my 73. Steve

Hi Reethi, I have a 73 and was having this same problem. It turned out to be the fusable link connected to the starter. It is a short 3" wire that plugs into the wiring harness with a plastic connector. Try bridging around this wire with a 12g wire from the connector to the terminal on the starter. If this is the problem it should then crank fine. You can pick up a new one at any auto parts store, I beleive it is either a 14 or 16 guage. Just cut the wire off the old connector and soldier the new one on, or you can probably order one with the OEM connector from Motorsport Auto. If you have already tried the previous suggestions of checking the battery charge and cleaning and tightening the terminal connetions, I would bet this is your problem. Hope this helps. Steve

When I was looking for a 240 I wanted either black or white but I came across a 73 with the 918 orange paint and black "240Z" side stripes and had to have it. Cool combination IMO:D Sorry I haven't posted any pictures yet (no digi-cam). MSA has a kits availible to do the side stripes yourself in black or white for just $20 as long as you don't mind vinyl decals. Steve

I recently had a similar problem with my 73 240. When I turned the key to the start position I would hear a relay click on the passenger side firewall but nothing at the starter. I bridged a wire across the fusible link on the starter silinoid and it cranked fine. The fusible link is a 3" black wire attached to the B terminal on the starter silinoid. It plugs into a connector attached to a white-red wire comming out of the wire harness. I bridged around it just to test it, mine needed to be replaced. Bridging around it permanently would probably fry something more expensive.

I have a freashly rebuilt N42 head that I am planning on installing on my 240 block. I have seen a few posts explaining that the cylinder bore must be notched so the larger intake valve will clear it. Does anyone have any information or tips on the size and positioning of the notch to be made? Does the bore only need to be notched on the intake valve side or does the exhaust valve have a clearance problem as well? Thanks in advance for any advice.