preith

After posting I thought of that too. I beleive my JE's protrude at least 1mm above the deck. I assume you're using an N42, the quench side of the chamber is recessed quite a bit, there's probably a fair amount of room depending on the piston dome of yours.

I was brousing over the Runoffs qualifying/race results and found something very interesting. Their best lap times actually decend with theoretically slower classes instead of the other way around. GT3 and EP are on essentially the same skins and GT3 should have a good chunk more in HP. These aren't flukes either, the times are consistent across a 4 day period. Greg Ira, 240z, EP, 01:43.807 Donald Ahrens, 240z, EP, 01:44.589 Jeffrey Winter, 280z, GT3, 01:46.735 Tony Giordano Jr., 280z, GT2, 01:50.565 Jeff Winters recieved the "hard charger award" advancing quite a few positions. No disrespect, but 1/3rd of the field DNF'd!

Seems too simple, eh? Unless I'm missing something obvious, it looks good to me. You can also do: 73.7 / 2 = 36.85 + 142.24 = 179.09 83 / 2 = 41.5 + -179.09 = 137.59 With that said, yes, it sounds like you'll have a real screamer when it's all done!

I'd be interested in one. Shall I contact them or should we see what kind of list we can put together first?

Good vid and fabulous track, hopefully I'll have the chance to race there someday. The over-optimism of the other 240 was a bit surprising to say the least.

I've found the concentration and skill required to master GPL and some other PC games far exceeds any x-box or playstation, and I have tried most out there. However, I'd have to agree on the braking aspect of it, that was the most difficult for myself as well, but the premise is the same for the most part, gradually braking later until the threshold is met. When I got my license I was far from getting owned, but am always quick to point out "it's mostly the car"

Sorry if I'm a little late on this reply, but that's very cool! I've always wondered what the criteria for the Montery event is. I assume only cars with a genuine race history can participate, and any others are only allowed on a case-by-case basis, which I assume yours would fall under.

Good reading, I'd like to add some points if anyone is interested. In regards to the seat time comment, a lot of people may laugh or scoff at this, but I whole heartedly feel lots and lots of practice on computer simulator with a quality wheel/pedal set pays dividends; the acquired skills are transferable. I have countless hours on an old sim called Grand Prix Legends. For me the largest gain has been aquiring the ability to maintain a heightened level of concentration for long periods of time. Also gained are the “ingrained driving habits”, hitting all your points, shifting, etc, almost becomes subconscious. Shifting: Many rookies, and even the pros, have a tendency to downshift too early. This should not be used to help slow the car down but rather to match rev’s only. Also, I always tell people if they can “heel and toe” shift on the street smoothly under light to medium brake pedal pressures, they have it made. It is much easier maintaining consistent braking pressure when mashing on the pedal. As Mark pointed out, this really is something one should be well practiced at before putting a wheel on the track. I also feel the “heel and toe” term isn’t really the best one to use and can be a bit misleading. I personally find it easier to roll the foot off the brake pedal in more or less an upright position, not cocked at a weird angle. I welded an extension on the gas pedal to aid with this too. I’ve also seen the pros do it this way on TV. Also, a lot of people don’t want to bother auto-crossing and jump right into road racing. My heart was never really in it, but I’m soooo glad I did. Again the skills are transferable, but at least in my area where the courses are very tight, I’ve always felt it doesn’t teach finesse as there’s much more man-handling of the car. If anything it will prepare one to participate in a controlled, sanctioned event. As silly as it sounds, this alone can be a bit nerve racking the first few times out.

I've been meaning to revisit the dry sump project since I've got mine going, this is also a major point I've been meaning to bring up. As Mark stated, the ARE pan actually provides LESS clearance than even the wet sump comp. pan, which has a shallow scavenge tray added to the front underside of the stock pan. I too had to do some grinding, but only a small portion of the ribs at the very front. I opted to modify the stock cross member by lowering the steering rack about 3/4". This of course threw off the bumpsteer big time which was remedied by drilling out the knuckes, converting to rod ends and spacers. I bolted the cross member to the engine while on the stand checked for clearance but it wasn't until it was in the car and at the proper angle that additional "clearancing" was nessesary. BTW, I had been meaning to switch the outer tie rods to conventional rod ends anyways, but drilling the knuckles turned out to be big PITA. The pieces are heat treated from the factory. After burning up standard and cobalt drill bits I took it to a machine shop; he ended up using a $200 carbide bit to get through. The end result was a car which handled noticably better then before the entire project, so I was happy.