preith

Good pics. I didn't notice Don Bunt in the standings and was quite surprised to see his EP car in your pics. It was featured in SCCA's Sports Car when the Z was first being re-introduced to the production ranks in '98. It was a major source of motivation for me.

The 180 trick sounds interesting. I assumed Victoria British didn't have anything, but after posting this I checked their catalog and they do in fact list the bushings and seals. Their parts brands seem to be hit or miss lately, but I'll probably order through them.

Sorry to post on an old thread, but I have an early 240 rack which I'd like to rebuild. From what I've read being an early rack, this is fairly easlily accomplished. Rather than search forever for part numbers, does anyone have a complete list? Does Nissan stock a "kit", or do I need to order everything piece by piece? I've also read it's cheaper and easier to source a rebuilt one, but this is for my road racer. I won't be using the factory inner tie rods (the expensive part), but rather modifying it for heim joints, or rod ends.

I realize this is a bit late, but I was searching HybridZ a little while ago to see if anyone had to use a cooler for the R200 in road racing. Anyways, katman posted a lengthy reply about the R180 which was very informative, last post: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98130&highlight=parking

I have an entire set from an F54 block that you can have, left you a PM. IMHO shot peening them is not nessesary, plus I wonder what it will do to the skirt clearances, which are tight to begin with. This could snowball into a lenghtly discussion, but I also wonder if cross drilling the crank is really necessary? I used to hang out with an old-timer who prepared a CP 280Z back in the late 70's-early 80's, and he said they had bone stock crank, complete with the brass plugs, which regularly saw 9500 rpm, with zero issues. Maybe they were just lucky, or maybe his memory is a bit hazy, hey, it was the 70's...

Great site Steve! If I dig anything up I'll be sure to send it your way. Perhaps you should add an informational page on what GTU body kits are still available today and/or how they differed. As I'm sure you're aware of, there was a great thread on Hybrid not too long ago. I found DrSideways posts to be particularly valuble. I'm still trying to figure out how they were able to make the stub axles last with those monster wheels...

Yes, nice ride. It's been featured in a few different magazines as well, an old Zcar one if I remember correctly... I still miss that publication.

That's a good tidbit about the springs Jon. I was getting a little off subject with that anyways, I think you're right, it probably wasn't valve float which caused it, but my first guess would be the cam dowel as well.

Mark, You're new, so not to harp on you too much, but this post probably could have been continued with your last thread stating the initial problem, which I'm sorry to hear about by the way. My luck hasn't been too good either, particularly at that track. What are your cam specs? What manufacture, or is it stock? If it's stock or even slightly larger, IMHO I'd say stick with the stock springs, even at those rpms. I'm just going off my somewhat sketchy memory, but something like 460 or less in lift and I think you're ok with stock springs. One of my beefs with Scheider for example, and probably most others, is they stock one spring to ecompass their entire line of cams and the end result is a spring which is overkill almost all but the most aggressive cams. Also, I left you a private message back when you first posted pics. I'd be happy to help you off line as well. From the track and date you have listed you were at a Midwest Council member. I'm also Council member who runs in vintage, but the car is still down at the moment, maybe I'll see ya soon at the track, hope to make it to the June 24th weekend at Blackhawk.

I'm pretty sure this is the same car. Grey Ghost just posted it in the photo gallery. I was there when this photo was taken, I belive it was in the spring of '02 at Road America's SVRA event.

That is cool, and Bill and I are in the same club! Bill, are you going ITS with it?

There's a VSCDA member, Joe Ziltner, who occasionaly races in my club (Midwest Council) and has been using triple SU's for a while now. I didn't take any pictures of the engine bay unfortunately, but I'll have to next time I see it. Anyways, he built the manifold out of exhaust tubing (steel); it did look presentable. As for straight line speed, he was door to door with me at Road America...for a breif moment. I beleive he's since upgraded the cam, so I'll have to get another comparison this year if I race against him again. Hopefully Steve won't mind me posting this:

Ok one last time...and I'll speak theoretically this time. I'm not denying the bore will be different after the head has been installed, that we can agree upon. My point from the beginning, as dspillman eluded to in his edit, is the argument of final honing with a plate vs boring and honing with a plate. "Theoretically" the final bore could be the same, but I don't know, I never been able to compare the two.

I see your point, but speaking hypothetically, if the end result would be the same, or the cylinders would exact dimensions either way, I still don't see what difference it would make? As for how much more trouble would it be to leave it on, I have no idea, but perhaps it is.

dspillman, no offense, but I kind of feel like I'm dealing with the media here; your reply twists my post a bit. I should have left the last part out, my main point, which seemed to slip past Zsaint too, was when to use the torque plate during machining. It is not needed for the boring, the final hone will compensate for any differences.