preith

I'm a little confused by your post, are you offering one, or in need of it?? With that said, I feel there's a popular misconception with torque plates. The torque plate does NOT need to be used for the actual over boring, but only for the final honing. Also I wonder just how important they are for the 'ole L-series. IMHO, the reinforced skirts on the blocks make them much more stout than a Chevy or Ford small block. My last road race block was prepped sans torque plate, with no issues.

That's the Red Frog Racing Z, right? Left you a PM.

$800 seems a bit high. The custom hub should cost you around $150, and the damper itself is an "off the shelf" item which you can buy from Summit for example, at about $300. I beleive The damper is listed as a big block Chevy application, but you could probably find out from ATI. I dealt with Jim Beattie, the owner, and I can't say enough about his customer service.

I resisted posting because you specifically mentioned the Nissan damper. I'm currently using the HPV setup on an ATI application with a custom machined hub from them. Not to get too far off subject, but I personally feel this is a better solution to the Nissan one. Anyways, wheel is mounted on the back of the hub, actually on the water pump pulley, between the pulley and the front cover. The hub is drilled/tapped with 6 #10 countersunk screws. It's worked flawlessly thus far. The engine is in peices, but I could take some pics of it installed on the hub I guess, and maybe of the sensor bracket too?

That the Mistress Motorsports guy, right? We're getting off subject here, but for some reason I was on a Shelby Cobra board a while back and he had the car for sale there too. It was entertaining reading some of posts from Cobra guys who had diced with a Z at one time or another on the track, and were quite surprised with it's performance.

Afterwards I though of that too; what would happen if the engine killed at a certain corner on a particular track. Sounded great at first but now I dunno... California Speedway is certainly an extreme example. I don't have any super speedways around here to race on, but it wouldn't be pretty at the Milwaukee Mile either.

Yeah, it's a disease... Short term I'll be leaving the motor "as is" with my custom 2" back solid mounts at the stock height, but my project next winter (if I don't crash the car again) will be lowering it and at the same time making my custom crossmember utilizing the stock car steering rack w/adjustable ackerman that I've spoken so much about in the past. After that, it's the tube frame car, if I ever make it that far... I'm glad you mentioned the thick mount. The Weaver pump has just under 1.5" of spacing between the mounts. I simply bought 1.5" thick plate aluminum stock and will be joining them in a right angle by drilling/tapping and bolting the two sections together with some real beefy bolts. There's a weaver pump pic in Honzowetz's book which mine will look almost exactly like when it's all done. More pic's are always nice. The pressure switch sounds like an excellent idea. Any products you can provide links for?? Another small item which just popped in my head that I posted on Hybrid a while back. A, 18mm X 1.5mm to 10AN adapter fitting is required for the oil filter boss plug. After that you're home free with the standard AN fittings. I'm in limbo now as to if I should run 16AN lines to and from the tank, or use 12's. The tank I bought has 16's welded on, and since I haven't bought any of the other fittings yet, the cost would be marginally more than 12's. I'll have to buy adapter fittings somewhere for the lines, at the tank or the pump, and they're both about the same price.

No problem guys, I also wanted to add that the dry sump pump must be a three stage (2 for the pan pick-ups and 1 for pressure). I have a Weaver pump, a quick ebay search resulted in some matches, including this one for reference: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WEAVER-3-STAGE-DRY-SUMP-OIL-PUMP_W0QQitemZ4621126585QQcategoryZ107061QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem You're certainly taking a risk buying a used pump, but they are rebuildable, and replacement parts are accessible. There are other manufacturers out there, but I have no idea what, and which ones are better, etc. I like the "tried and trued" reputation which Weaver has.

To answer the guy's question, I haven't seen anything for sale recently, but I beleive you can still buy the ARE pan new. The web page is a bit dated, but here it is: http://www.drysump.com/pan16b.htm I'm in the process of converting to a dry sump system now. I was lucky enough to find a used set-up for a good price, but a bracket still needs to be fabricated for the pump in my case. But other than the pump bracket and pan, all the other items are "off the shelf" ones anyways. Now's the time for you to decide if you want to run an alternator, or possibly relocate it to the driveshaft. It will make the job a little easier if you can mount the pump in the alternator location. The added weight will be on the correct side of the car, as well as the lines shorter and better placed. Unfortunately for me, I decided to keep the alternator, and will use the AC compressor mounts. I've yet to fabricate the bracket, but will post pics when I do. If you use an ATI damper, they also sell a nice dry sump mandrel which bolts to the front, and goes for about $150US. The damper will require a custom hub machined by ATI, but they have the one they did for me on file. I beleive the hub will cost around $150, and the damper itself is also an "off the shelf" item, and goes for about $300. You can probably find a good used tank on Ebay. It appears there was a rule change in some circle burner class, and dry sumps have been outlawed. At least when I found mine, there where many out there because of this. A Patterson or Peterson tank is recomended, in at least a 3 gallon capacity.

Yes, I'm in Council, left you a PM.

I went to my club's award banquet last weekend and there's 3 guys who are seriously considering taking their cars (a GT3 510, 2 roadsters). They were giving me the riot act about not going. I'm sure I haven't heard the last of of it yet either. I'm not making any promises, but I just may attend... It looks like they'll accept most liscences from other clubs, but it probably wouldn't hurt to run it past them first. Ouch, $475 entry fee.

As much as I hate to say it, the headquarters move to Tennesee kind of makes sense, don't they have a rather large production facility there? I'm pretty sure that's where my pick-up was made. I'd frankly be surprised if Gerry runs his BRE at the Mitty, especially if he gets this news. From what I can tell, he's very involved with his GT2 300ZX.

Ron Carter mentioned to me that he may be attending, perhaps he'll chime in. It's tempting, but I'll have to pass. I still have to complete a few more races to get my full comp liscence and won't race anywhere else until that happens. On a bad note, I have to say, for the spectator these larger events are great, but for the participant they can be a royal pain. The Brian Redman Challenge (which may challenge the Mitty for "the largest event" title) is in my back yard, and I honestly don't know if I'll ever attend it. All of the fellow vintage racers I've spoken with say it's just too busy, both on and off the track, and the ratio of track time to the amount of days you're there isn't good either.

This is kind of a hi-jack, but does anyone have links to good in-car camera videos of both the north and south circuits, at least a full lap?

It's been a while since I looked at the SCCA GCR (General Competition Rules), but I believe it hasn't changed much in the last few years. The EP Z's must be 2.4L, retain the stock SU's, 12:1 compression; the cylinder head must be prepared to IT specs, so no porting of any kind, only cc'ing the chambers. I beleive most of the guys are running stock, or maybe Nissan Comp gearboxes.

Yes, impressive. The first thing I thought of was I wonder how he'll do at the Runoffs this year? I suppose with the first year at Topeka, nobody really knows what to expect. That would be something if he could pull off a win in that car after how many attempts by Grayson?