preith

I'm with you, after the last retaliatory post in regards to mine, just biting my lip, I'm done!

The SVRA & HSR definitely do not enforce any kind of period paint schemes, that's entirely at the owner's discretion. Most vintage groups are concerned with the preparation level and period correctness on a mechanical level and frown on newer technology, remote reservoir shocks, etc. As for the stickers, it's rare to hear a sanctioning body orders the "other" group removed, or taped over, but it does happen. Also, period correctness can be a bit vague as most race cars were in a constant state of flux through their lives and just about anything could be be considered "correct" depending on the year referenced. In this case the car is more representative of it's life at a later date, probably sometime in the 80's. Your earlier statement of the car requiring a previous race history is incorrect as well. Depending on the sanctioning body and group within it's not always a prerequisite. I hope this doesn't come across as an attack in any way, just "keepin' it real".

I rememberd seeing it pictured on Dave's (arizonazcar) website, revisted it: The owner is listed as Larry Mahanor as well. I believe he's been running that car for a number of years now and I don't think he's a member here.

It doesn't look like anyone touched on the temperature of the plug. In your case with that much compression you'll be better off with something a bit cooler, most likely a BR7ES or BR8ES. I run the 8 with 11.9:1, .560lift cam, and an Electromotive ignition. As stated in another post, "R" stands for resistor. The Electromotive ignition actually requires more resistance than a traditional setup, including higher resistance plug wires than the "ultra-low" stuff marketed nowadays, 1-2K ohms per foor IIRC.

The same thought of drilling rod journals crossed my mind after seeing just about EVERY aftermarket 'upgrade' 4340 v8 crank sold by the typical producers (scat, crower, etc) had this. I wouldn't attempt it with an OEM crank but if going with a custom one-off one before heat treating... I see you asked the same question on HybridZ. I was not surprised by the advice against it, but was surprised nobody mentioned this is a quite common practice in the v8 crowd. Granted, it's comparing apples to oranges in the crank department, but I'd think the harmonics would be worse with the v8's and they're getting away with it.

Great to hear you own the Leitzinger 280z, but unfortunately I don't own any of those photos, they're all compliments of Greyghost (aka Steve Gunderson). I beleive most are scans from his collection. You could try PM'ing him. Or anyone with a decent printer and good paper could simply print the digitial file for you, though the files aren't very large, I'm not sure how well they'd turn out.

With your current setup I don't see how it would be possible. This will probably open a can of worms, but IMO a return line should not be used with a inlet style pressure regulator but rather a bypass style - after the carbies liks an FI setup. It creates a potential for fuel starvation at high rpms because the pump then needs to supply enough fuel for both the carbs and the return line to maintain pressure.

This may not be applicable but I've been running setup #3 on my road racer for 4 years now, with a return line from the fuel block and a Holley bypass regulator, Carter comp pump (100GPH), 1/2" ID fuel lines (8AN hose). I originally had twin solid-state pumps and a 6AN feed line but the fuel pressure dropped off at 7k. The return line is easier on the pump too.

Hopefully I won't get dinged for this but for anyone else interested in this swap I have a FS5W71B bell housing from a 280ZX I'm looking to sell, PM me for more info.

Panasport markets both a street and race wheel. The street ones are more robust (of course heavier) and not as prone to cracking. I've never heard of any street wheels cracking under normal road race conditions. The race wheels are prominently marked "for racing only" and should be inspected quite often. Here's another thread on the subject: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29585

No worres with any rubber cushions, etc, when the suspension is loaded the springs aren't going anywhere. Assuming the car is stock the strut top mount is one big piece of rubber anyway, and even then, anybody with camber plates does away with that too.

I thought it would be fun to do an all ZX post, again courtesy of greyghost:

I managed to to find a pic of that 81 car on my PC. Cant remember where I found this but the file was named with a date of 1990 and I distinctly remember Tom telling me the car was raced until then which led me to believe it was the 08 car. Also attached are some more pics of Logan @ Blackhawk in '74. I wanna say greyghost took these too but I don't see them in his gallery here.

It's LHS in both pics. The 'recent' pic looks deceiving perhaps due to a long lens, but the petty bar should be sufficient proof. I have studied the car personally. On the HLS30 00008 car, perhaps I should've kept my mouth shut! :tapemouth I was hoping it wouldn't drag into the distraction it has. Perhaps the pic 26th-Z posted is not the same car, and agreed - kudos to Carl for posting the page, but we can all agree the '08 car WAS at Daytona. Come to think of of it, Carl, please don't hate me but I was the one who posted the link on Hybrid... Anyway, thanks for the great pics everyone, good stuff!

Great pic! I'm fairly sure that's the HLS30 00008 car, originally owned by Bob Speakman, currently by Tom Bork of NY, here's the zhome page: http://www2.zhome.com:81/History/Bork.htm here was some discussion on hybridz on the accuracy of Bob's actual race results, but he did participate nonetheless.

The frozen north is just that, thankfully not as bad as last year precip wise but still below normal temps Actually, I believe we first spoke shortly after your migration to San Fran, you were very courteous! That was ages ago, I was a "wet behind the ears" 20 yr old then. Anyway, I weeded out a few more good ones from greyghost's gallery: here's Dan Parkinson's car: Here's Logan @ Blackhawk shortly after purchasing it, pre-yellow paint and still wearing BRE regalia. On a side note I feel very fortunate to race at the same track in a very similar car. On more than a few occasions some of the "old timers" there have compared mine to his, it's flattering. This one blows me away, I've raced against it at Blackhawk: Not vintage-vintage but I feel it's worth an exception, here's the same car a few years ago at blackhawk wearing the same paint!

Hi Rob, good to hear from you again. Heh, my first thought was current pics from the vintage racing scene, but I see it's vintage-vintage In that case greyghost has a treasure of old photos (and new) in his gallery, I took the liberty of weeding some out:

I've had the most success with carburetor cleaner. I actually used it for underbody coating removal too, worked wonders, and did not damage the factory applied primer.

Just thought I'd give the group a "heads up". I was browsing the Nissan Surplus OEM guy's ebay store and noticed he was selling manual Maxima steering racks complete with the outer tie rods for $100! He has 8 of them. Seems like a screaming deal, hopefully it can be used in the S30 cars, just going off my memory but it looks identical. If they are the same it's my guess they're of the same design as the later 74-78 racks. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Maxima-Steering-Gear-Linkage-OEM-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33589QQihZ014QQitemZ330210004813

Good sticky BTW, I'd like to add my $.02. I see a lot of talk about the cold start system. When I owned my '77 back in the 90's I swapped out the fuel rail with one from a ZXturbo which had larger diameter tubing, but the catch was it did NOT have a provision for the cold start valve so it snowballed from there. I discarded the air regulator, cold start valve, thermotime switch, and the coolant lines which ran to a base plate sandwiched under the air regulator. I pipe plugged cold start hole and the others. It certainly cleaned up the engine bay considerably and the car ran GREAT without all that garbage. This until the first snowfall in Wisconsin. Also, I see no mention of the BCDD valve (hangs under throttle body). It's there to "hang" the rpm's during shifts and reduce hydrocarbons. The problem is quite often it "hangs" too much and becomes quite annoying. Fortunately the aftermarket throttle bodies, and perhaps the other OEM ones people retrofit. do not have a provision for this and it can be eliminated.

It's been 10 years since I owned my '77, but IIRC there was a single vacuum line which ran from the vac diaphram under the dash to the manifold and the other nipple on the manifold was for a "idle helper" of sorts which bolted directly to the manifold. Regardless, if they're both plugged either should affect the drivability of the car.

Not to split hairs, but the the Mikuni's don't "require" 4psi. IIRC the manual calls for 3psi but most racers run them at 4-4.5psi (myself included) with a lower bowl level (to counteract cornering g's) and larger needle seats.

For the rebuild kits Overseas Distributing is another choice. They're in Vancouver, I don't recall shipping being bad, and have very competitive prices. It's been a few years but I used to deal with Jim Hilton over there, knowledgeable and friendly. http://www.overseas-auto.com/ EDIT: forgot to mention, I beleive the 40 & 44mm carbs use the same rebuild kit.

I've bought items from him on a few occasions, no complaints, you will get it in a timely manner, he's quick to ship. With that said, I don't mean this disrespectfully, but IMO he's a reseller only and cannot answer technical questions, or elaborate, with anything more than what is already stated in the catalog. Yes, some of the Kameari items , while tantalizing, are crazy expensive. I have to scratch my head with what is offered too (pistons and rods for example) which can be found cheaper domestically and are equal to or higher in quality. As for the $6582.00 crank, Moldex can make a very nice custom billet crank for you in any of the dimensions in the Kameri catalog much cheaper, probably half the cost, as well.