preith

Gentlemen, I've been in contact with Tony Woodward over at http://www.woodwardsteering.com/. He is open to the idea of producing his steering u-joint spined for the Z's rack, which has 28 splines at about .560" diameter. At present, factory replacements are NLA, and there aren't any other sources that I know of. This would be a great resource. He would like multimple samples, I'm looking for anyone willing to cut off the splined portion from a scrap rack. I'm acting as the liason, and would like to accumulate as many as possible before shipping them to him, don't worry, I won't flake out on this...PM me for my address. Does anybody know what other Datsun/Nissan models share the same spline count and diameter? I'm assuming pretty much all of them, but would like to verify. This would be something I could run to the 510 guys with as well. He's also inquiring about how we would like to mate the steering shaft to the joint. He suggested welding an adapter, as shown in the link, page 100: http://www.woodwardsteering.com/Cat0...%20100-105.pdf Personally I'd feel much more comfortable with this method rather than welding the shaft directly to the joint, which is always a bit risky, but wanted to get some feedback. The adapter could be butt welded and then a sleeve also welded over it. Phil

I would like to 2nd the "take the negative feedback" comment. Most ebayers, including myself, are willing to overlook a few negative ones especially if they have a reply like the one above! I'm offically at 100 now withouth any negative feedbacks, but I feel I've been lucky. It seems like one has to deal with a different breed when selling electronics, etc.

Good pics. I didn't notice Don Bunt in the standings and was quite surprised to see his EP car in your pics. It was featured in SCCA's Sports Car when the Z was first being re-introduced to the production ranks in '98. It was a major source of motivation for me.

The 180 trick sounds interesting. I assumed Victoria British didn't have anything, but after posting this I checked their catalog and they do in fact list the bushings and seals. Their parts brands seem to be hit or miss lately, but I'll probably order through them.

Sorry to post on an old thread, but I have an early 240 rack which I'd like to rebuild. From what I've read being an early rack, this is fairly easlily accomplished. Rather than search forever for part numbers, does anyone have a complete list? Does Nissan stock a "kit", or do I need to order everything piece by piece? I've also read it's cheaper and easier to source a rebuilt one, but this is for my road racer. I won't be using the factory inner tie rods (the expensive part), but rather modifying it for heim joints, or rod ends.

I realize this is a bit late, but I was searching HybridZ a little while ago to see if anyone had to use a cooler for the R200 in road racing. Anyways, katman posted a lengthy reply about the R180 which was very informative, last post: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98130&highlight=parking

I have an entire set from an F54 block that you can have, left you a PM. IMHO shot peening them is not nessesary, plus I wonder what it will do to the skirt clearances, which are tight to begin with. This could snowball into a lenghtly discussion, but I also wonder if cross drilling the crank is really necessary? I used to hang out with an old-timer who prepared a CP 280Z back in the late 70's-early 80's, and he said they had bone stock crank, complete with the brass plugs, which regularly saw 9500 rpm, with zero issues. Maybe they were just lucky, or maybe his memory is a bit hazy, hey, it was the 70's...

Great site Steve! If I dig anything up I'll be sure to send it your way. Perhaps you should add an informational page on what GTU body kits are still available today and/or how they differed. As I'm sure you're aware of, there was a great thread on Hybrid not too long ago. I found DrSideways posts to be particularly valuble. I'm still trying to figure out how they were able to make the stub axles last with those monster wheels...

Yes, nice ride. It's been featured in a few different magazines as well, an old Zcar one if I remember correctly... I still miss that publication.

That's a good tidbit about the springs Jon. I was getting a little off subject with that anyways, I think you're right, it probably wasn't valve float which caused it, but my first guess would be the cam dowel as well.

Mark, You're new, so not to harp on you too much, but this post probably could have been continued with your last thread stating the initial problem, which I'm sorry to hear about by the way. My luck hasn't been too good either, particularly at that track. What are your cam specs? What manufacture, or is it stock? If it's stock or even slightly larger, IMHO I'd say stick with the stock springs, even at those rpms. I'm just going off my somewhat sketchy memory, but something like 460 or less in lift and I think you're ok with stock springs. One of my beefs with Scheider for example, and probably most others, is they stock one spring to ecompass their entire line of cams and the end result is a spring which is overkill almost all but the most aggressive cams. Also, I left you a private message back when you first posted pics. I'd be happy to help you off line as well. From the track and date you have listed you were at a Midwest Council member. I'm also Council member who runs in vintage, but the car is still down at the moment, maybe I'll see ya soon at the track, hope to make it to the June 24th weekend at Blackhawk.

I'm pretty sure this is the same car. Grey Ghost just posted it in the photo gallery. I was there when this photo was taken, I belive it was in the spring of '02 at Road America's SVRA event.

That is cool, and Bill and I are in the same club! Bill, are you going ITS with it?

There's a VSCDA member, Joe Ziltner, who occasionaly races in my club (Midwest Council) and has been using triple SU's for a while now. I didn't take any pictures of the engine bay unfortunately, but I'll have to next time I see it. Anyways, he built the manifold out of exhaust tubing (steel); it did look presentable. As for straight line speed, he was door to door with me at Road America...for a breif moment. I beleive he's since upgraded the cam, so I'll have to get another comparison this year if I race against him again. Hopefully Steve won't mind me posting this:

Ok one last time...and I'll speak theoretically this time. I'm not denying the bore will be different after the head has been installed, that we can agree upon. My point from the beginning, as dspillman eluded to in his edit, is the argument of final honing with a plate vs boring and honing with a plate. "Theoretically" the final bore could be the same, but I don't know, I never been able to compare the two.