preith

Just thinking out loud, but with a 35mm SIR I wonder if 50's would be the best choice. The TWM airbox would be an obvious choice, but hear they don't pass the SCCA stall test, which essentially is blocking off the intake and forcing the engine to stall. The GT2 tube cars have a miniumum required weight of 2080, so they'd have to balast a whopping 200lbs. I suppose it's not out of the question, but most of them are running 16" wheels and believe it not they don't want to go to 15's.

In an effort boost the number of GT3 entries, the SCCA competition board has agreed to move the Z over from GT2. More appropriately, the rules have been written to encourage the older uni-body cars to come out of mothballs. The requirements are a minimum weight of 2200 lbs (w/driver), 15x7 wheels (w/cantilever slicks), GT2 spec L28, and the only draw back, a 35mm SIR (single inlet restrictor). The current EP Z-cars would be right at home with an L28 transplant; they're already on the same wheels and rubber. The inlet restrictor would be one area where some creative engineering would probably pay off. As little effort would be required in my case, I’m seriously considering converting, however I’m not up to speed (no pun intended) with the race slicks they use. I assume Hoosiers are the preferred choice, but what size and compound do the production guys typically use?

Bad news..it looks like we may have hit a roadblock. I think Mr. Woodward got a little intimidated once I told him the Z only has a .560" solid steering shaft from the column. He has liability concerns and is opposed to any type of welding a joint with that diameter. He suggested going with something larger also replaceing the upper joint, but I told him the column shaft is also at the same diameter and at some point welding would be necessary. He went on to suggest retrofitting the steering column with a larger diameter shaft as well, but I told him that would be out of the question. I'm hoping he'll produce the joint along with a disclaimer, but don't hold your breath. l'll keep you posted otherwise. Phil

Hmm, not sure why and it appears the edit function has been disabled, but here it is again... http://www.woodwardsteering.com/Cat05/Cat05%20PDF%20100-105.pdf

Gentlemen, I've been in contact with Tony Woodward over at http://www.woodwardsteering.com/. He is open to the idea of producing his steering u-joint spined for the Z's rack, which has 28 splines at about .560" diameter. At present, factory replacements are NLA, and there aren't any other sources that I know of. This would be a great resource. He would like multimple samples, I'm looking for anyone willing to cut off the splined portion from a scrap rack. I'm acting as the liason, and would like to accumulate as many as possible before shipping them to him, don't worry, I won't flake out on this...PM me for my address. Does anybody know what other Datsun/Nissan models share the same spline count and diameter? I'm assuming pretty much all of them, but would like to verify. This would be something I could run to the 510 guys with as well. He's also inquiring about how we would like to mate the steering shaft to the joint. He suggested welding an adapter, as shown in the link, page 100: http://www.woodwardsteering.com/Cat0...%20100-105.pdf Personally I'd feel much more comfortable with this method rather than welding the shaft directly to the joint, which is always a bit risky, but wanted to get some feedback. The adapter could be butt welded and then a sleeve also welded over it. Phil

I would like to 2nd the "take the negative feedback" comment. Most ebayers, including myself, are willing to overlook a few negative ones especially if they have a reply like the one above! I'm offically at 100 now withouth any negative feedbacks, but I feel I've been lucky. It seems like one has to deal with a different breed when selling electronics, etc.

Good pics. I didn't notice Don Bunt in the standings and was quite surprised to see his EP car in your pics. It was featured in SCCA's Sports Car when the Z was first being re-introduced to the production ranks in '98. It was a major source of motivation for me.

The 180 trick sounds interesting. I assumed Victoria British didn't have anything, but after posting this I checked their catalog and they do in fact list the bushings and seals. Their parts brands seem to be hit or miss lately, but I'll probably order through them.

Sorry to post on an old thread, but I have an early 240 rack which I'd like to rebuild. From what I've read being an early rack, this is fairly easlily accomplished. Rather than search forever for part numbers, does anyone have a complete list? Does Nissan stock a "kit", or do I need to order everything piece by piece? I've also read it's cheaper and easier to source a rebuilt one, but this is for my road racer. I won't be using the factory inner tie rods (the expensive part), but rather modifying it for heim joints, or rod ends.

I realize this is a bit late, but I was searching HybridZ a little while ago to see if anyone had to use a cooler for the R200 in road racing. Anyways, katman posted a lengthy reply about the R180 which was very informative, last post: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98130&highlight=parking

I have an entire set from an F54 block that you can have, left you a PM. IMHO shot peening them is not nessesary, plus I wonder what it will do to the skirt clearances, which are tight to begin with. This could snowball into a lenghtly discussion, but I also wonder if cross drilling the crank is really necessary? I used to hang out with an old-timer who prepared a CP 280Z back in the late 70's-early 80's, and he said they had bone stock crank, complete with the brass plugs, which regularly saw 9500 rpm, with zero issues. Maybe they were just lucky, or maybe his memory is a bit hazy, hey, it was the 70's...