preith

Which are in the link I posted, 4-100mm to 4-114.3mm, +36mm to +40 mm spacing, $215 for 4.

Even if they had the same bolt pattern the offset will be too high, but you could most likely find an aluminum adapter to use them. These might work: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=57_56&products_id=6

There were pics of a very nice orange gnose with carbs similar to these, from a few years ago, but I cannot find any links at the moment.

You're right, I should have stated it differently. It's been my observation the majority of production based race cars use a 6:1 ratio. I'd like to see the circumstances under which 5:1 would be used.

Understanding Japanese isn't required. The ratio is determined by dividing the overall length (in this case 340mm) by the distance from the pedal pivot to the clevis pin (L1 - 70mm or 80mm). The resulting pedal ratio is listed at the end, they are 4.8 and 4.2. I this find puzzling because both would be suited for a boosted application at best. If they (Nissan) used these with manual brakes it's no wonder the pedal was hard. Simply shorten the L1 value to increase the ratio, again, 6:1 is optimal. Master cylinder diameter plays a role in pedal feel as well. A smaller diameter will give a softer feel.

The SVRA groups can be confusing, the '72 rule is blurry. It all depends on the level of prep. We discussed it briefly here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36348 In summary, technically any thing S30, up to '78, is legal for SVRA group 8, but again this is dependent on the level of prep. You could even run the stock fuel injection if you wanted to. I forget, but I beleive group 9 is actually for open wheel cars, or maybe Canam (their website is down at the moment) The other place you may see a Z is in 10 but these are typically the later GT2 style cars with flares/slicks and tube frames, partial or full.

Assuming it came with manual brakes, it's my guess they changed the ratio. Boosted cars are typically 5:1 (our Z's included), manual are 6:1. The tilton pedal sets are 6.2:1. My road racer is manual braked, the pedal ratio has been adjusted, and it doesn't feel too different from a typical car.

From what I understand Logan's was the ex-BRE car. I was unaware Gerry Sr. build another one?? I did not know the Masons will be at Mitty either. What a bummer for me, I can probably make it down there next year with my car, but not this one. Gerry Jr. and the #3 are FAST. He clicked off some laps at Elkhart 10 years ago which still would have him in the top 5 at the same event. That's cool your car raced at Blackhawk. Yeah, check out the folders in the url, I did see some roadsters in there.

I stumbled across these from various SCCA Nationals at Blackhawk Farms, Grattan, Mid Ohio. The #81 Gerry Mason, GT2, I can only assume this is the #3 BRE car The #53 is Ellis Meister. The #33 ZX is of course the BSR/Paul Newman, GT1. The #85 ZX is Logan BLackburn Here's the original url: http://mwphoto-misc.smugmug.com/Cars/SCCA-NATIONALS

I assume you're referring to my post. Just drill out the stud no larger than 3/16" and mount one of these using a #10 screw. I like to use a small 1/4' tall (or thereabouts) aluminum spacer (to allow for articulation) and a nylon lock-nut For the linkage rod itself the easiest thing to do is use 3/16 rod cut to length and threaded with a 10-32 die. Everything aside from the rod ends are commonly available at local hardware stores, at least the ones by me. I'd take some pics but unfortunately the car is tucked away in storage at the moment. You can make out one of them on the firewall in this pic: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/500/100_0170.jpg They are advertised as "slightly loose" but this is in comparison to a standard rod end. Needless to say they're tighter than a decent plastic OEM one. You can also install right and left hand threaded ends to allow for "on the car" adjust-ability, but I didn't see a need for this.

EDIT: MY apologies, I should have read the original post a little closer, you're referring to the pivot bushings. I managed to find some metric ones with the same OD as original but they needed to be drilled out a bit. Somewhat of a pain but it turned out alright.

you could convert to rod ends specifically made for throttle apps. I did on mine, they work very well. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=182

For what USED to be speed and convenience. In my case the parts would arrive at my door the next working day via ground.

This thread at Hybridz got me thinking I should post something here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127778 It's been a few years since I put the group buy together so just an FYI. As OEM replacements are NLA through nissan, for those of you with loose steering joints and are not too worried about factory originality there are replacements available through Woodward. To the best of my knowledge they are the only company stateside who produces a 28 spline joint to mate to the Nissan rack. It seems most joints wear at the rack first, in which case one can cut the old off and weld the new joint directly to the steering shaft (smooth bore weldable unit). The splined both end joints are an alternative when both joints are suspect, and are great for a race only app where elimination of the steering column is desired. Part numbers are: UA201113, .540x28 (Nissan rack side) x .750-20 spline UA113160, ..540x28 (Nissan rack side) x .556 (smooth bore weldable) There are some good install pics on the hybrid thread above.

Yeah, Summit's been slipping, I'm beginning to wonder about them. It seems once the inventory starts to deplete it's a red flag for financial difficulties. I recently ordered ARP moly lube from and even that was on back order for 1 month! The order was promptly canceled. I've had issues in the past with Jegs and back orders even though the part may be listed as "ships in 4 days". Let us know if you call them though.

I'm not aware of any round port gaskets other than the MSA paper or OEM - which isn't recommended with a header. Personally I wouldn't worry too much about using the paper variety on a street car. It's only a concern when subjected to long periods of additional heat/stress from a motor sports environment such as an HPDE or road racing. With that said I've yet to receive the Hooker gasket, still on back order, but once it arrives I plan on experimenting a bit (in a non-critical area) to see how it responds to cutting. In regards to reusing the old one... it could have only 50 miles on it and would probably not be reusable. Once it's torqued down and used they typically don't remove without damaging. Plus in the grand scheme of things what's another $12? Certainly not worth the time and effort to have to redo.

Thanks Arne. After posting I googled the topic quite a bit. As just about everything x-pipe related is V8-centric it took a while to find, but I managed to dig up a page that explained it fairly well, 1/2 way down: http://www.performance928.com/cgi-bin/page_display.cgi?page_nav_name=exhaustuPp&pass_parent=1128 In summary, it all comes down to firing order/exhaust pulses. A traditional 3-2 header has the luxury of pulsing on alternating collectors whereas a typical V8 pulses in succession on the same side thereby overlapping/overloading the piping on a given side. My take is the x-pipe rarely hurts performance on a 6, it just isn't needed.

Arne, sorry to drag up an old post of yours but would you mind elaborating on this? Have you found any publications supporting this theory? I ask because my road racer currently has true duals. Power is wonderful at high rpm, especially with the large cam, but from the reading I've done the h-pipe would seem to be the perfect fit for boosting low-mid power without sacrificing the high end. Ultimately back to back dyno tests would provide the concrete answer but I have neither the time or inclination to do this.