preith
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Everything posted by preith
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On the false grid for qualifying. -
On the false grid for qualifying. -
On the false grid for qualifying. -
Thanks Darrell, after posting it occurred to me I should have started it with IIRC.
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It's covered rather well in the "how to rebuild" book by Tom Monroe, I would suggest obtaining a copy. With that said the nails go in after the seals on the block side, the 'C" goes on the block side, you do use a small amount of RTV in both the nail slots and the cap corners. He also mentions installing the rear main on the crank while installing it thereby eliminating the need for a special too.
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Dragging up a slightly old thread but this is worth sharing. The Nissan ball joint p/n is 40160-A8625 (not a series 1 of course) and they are available through Courtesy online. Currently $99.68 ea. FWIW the S30 stuff is not always the easiest to find on Courtesy's website without a p/n as they do not offer expanded parts drawing like they do for the later models.
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I don't want to drag this thread down too much but it strikes a chord with me. IMO it's a sad fact that the vast majority of any grassroots sponsorship is through the vehicle entrant's own place of business, someone they know personally or are related to, or some form of a manufacturer's minuscule contingency program.
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I have to disagree. Unless my memory eludes me, which is entirely possible, on my '77 the only thing that was under the AAR valve was a coolant block, no valve, etc (his picture seems to confirm this), perhaps this was a later model addition? Originally I removed the coolant block only and left the AAR. The AAR would not shut and the engine "high idled" indefinitely in colder weather (30's), so I concluded the block did serve the AAR. Regardless, you could remove the EGR as well, the easiest way of course using a 75-76 intake manifold.
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I was going to suggest too but it's been so long (10 years) I couldn't remember! Just remove all hoses and cap off the vacated nipples on the throttle body somehow. I just installed a breather filter on the valve cover. IIRC the coolant lines feed off the t-stat housing, you can simply remove and block off using a 1/4" NPT plugs You can also remove the dashpot - the larger disk shaped unit closest to the distributor. That just holds the throttle plate open a bit during shifts for emission purposes. Keep in mind if you do have to emission test the car you may want to leave this on, but the AAR you can remove regardless.
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Possibly, it's hard to tell from your pic but the first looks like the cold start valve, which would shoot raw fuel in if it's activated for some reason, just disconnect it. Perhaps you have an open condition on the temp sensor (2nd pic) which is for the most part a variable resistor, that would cause an extreme rich if so.
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Think of it as a "high idle" of sorts, it simply bypasses the throttle plate allowing more air intake, you can just remove it completely, along with the coolant line base under it. It's been my experience it only works when the temp is below 20 degrees anyway. It's not related to your problems.
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I'd like to know if the Hooker gasket is truly not cut-able. I plan on experimenting a bit with mine when it arrives. With that said I'm not aware of any paper ones other than MSA's. Good... better than nothing I suppose.
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Along those lines, I'd consider bolting that up to a scrap head, welding the pieces back together with either a torch or TIG (chamfering first) and then reinforce the welded sections with some flat stock, keeping it bolted to the head the entire time. It's a nice header otherwise.
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Good to hear, well not about your misfortune, but I suspect this will help. Hopefully if we get a lot of guys ordering this they'll keep it in production. FYI, I placed my order with Summit last night, they are on back order with a 1/22 ship date.
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Thanks! My apologies, the answer was there all along. Heh, I did search, saw your thread, but I had arse-u-me'd they were of the same paper construction as the MSA ones. After some research it appears they are of the same construction, or quite similar to the Nissan Motorsport variety. Per their website:
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I searched Courtesy Nissan's website and it looks like the L24/L26 square port header gasket, p/n 99996-e1044, is NLA. I'm bummed out, that was a really nice gasket, much better than the paper ones MSA is selling. Does anyone know of a comparable one available or a place which may still stock the Nissan Motorsports gasket?
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How is the aforementioned Works car coming along? Any more recent pics? I'd love to see some!
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The Lemons sounded intreging... until I read the rules. $500 for the purchase price of the the car but this does NOT include rollcage, wheels, tires, wheel bearings, brakes, exhaust (manifold back), steering wheel, shifter, gauges, pedals, cool suits, vents, heaters, radio. So potentially you could spend upwards of $5K when it's all said and done and at that point you're in cheaper IT prepared car territory anyway. Nonetheless it's nice to see a 280 out there. -
To reiterate my post back in July, the GC sleeves I was supplied (for 240 struts un-media blasted) were .060" over - not a misprint. I did question Jay, he said that was correct. No disrespect to him but I feel that's unacceptable. Moreover there was a significant amount of difference between sleeves. I would like to know if the other GC customers have experienced the same. Based on my past experience with GC 280 sleeves I'd venture to guess they didn't have .01" tolerance like yours, those babies were TIGHT.
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It looks like a run-of-the-mill Toyota 4 piston caliper for use with a solid rotor, so yes the same which MSA sells. There are some other size calipers out there too for use with a vented rotor, which MSA sells as well as others, Modern Motorsports comes to mind.
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I would imagine the "platform" type rings are required with the high tolerance on the GC sleeves, they can move around a bit. This is not a problem on the 280Z sleeves as the strut diameter is much larger. They don't have the luxury and are forced to make them as tight as possible but I assume it's easier from a logistics standpoint to stock one variety.
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That's a loaded question. It all depends on your level of engine prep, etc. Regardless, IMHO if you keep it at 7200 or less it'll last a very long time. With that said it's not uncommon to see one wrung up to 8500.
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Agreed, it may take him some time to get back to you as he's just a one man band, but a good go-to source.
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Yes, I'm flattered! The sad thing is I didn't notice until mentioned. Funny story, I bought it used from Rob (conedodger here) over 15 years ago, it's been on 3 different Z's since. It's an Abarth, a period wheel similar to the Prototipo currently offered by Momo but unique, I rarely see any for sale and when I do they're $pendy. The interior looks great btw.
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65 seems like a steal compared to what TSW is offering for $200, I wonder what the differences are: http://thomas-superwheel.com/tswsite/index.php?page=shop.product_details&category_id=12&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=93&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1 Just throwing this out there, from the reviews I've read the G27 isn't necessarily a better wheel, some items are better, some worse, the end result about the same.
