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Sounds like the simple solution is to use 15" wheels with the bumpspacers for that wheel size and be done with it, at least for a daily driver or occasional driver.

You probably should if your using lowering springs. Your center of gravity will actually be below the driving surface without the spacers.

Hi Mperdue- I don't know what the difference is between the two. Your probably correct in assuming differences in thickness based on wheel size as the geometry will differ between the two sizes. The only thing I can suggest is to call MSA and ask them what the differences are and if one of the spacers is more universal. My guess is you will need to know what size wheel you'll run before you order. Maybe you could post this information once you get it. I didn't bother asking because I knew I would go to a 15" wheel.

Found this on Ebay. What do ya'll think? Worth the money being asked? 12K for a car with less than 9000 miles on it? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2413271721&category=6187

Hey Jeff- I'm in the westminster area, where in Colorado are you? I would have loved to have had a Z at the tender age of 16. Not sure if I'd be alive or not but they are fun. I've been reading this whole chick magnet thing and find it interesting that no one's mentioned the lack of nooky room in these cars. Perhaps an Aztec or minivan???? Kidding, Kidding. Now I'll get flamed! I remember in high school I had the only car in my group of friends on a regular basis and I got so tired of shlepping everyone around I took out the back seat so I would only have a two seater. You won't have that problem. But if you have more than one friend you want to travel with, well you'll have to wait to get to where your going before you can hang with them. You should be able to find a pretty clean car in this state. Be careful and make sure you know what your looking for as far as rust and all the little pitfalls of the Z go. I got lucky and only had to look at two when I bought mine. I've looked at a few more since and they do have rust around here but not like other places (east coast). Do your research, take your time and I would suggest when you get your Z you upgrade the brakes especially if you plan on driving 'spiritedly'. Good luck.

Thanks guys. One last question - if you are running a particular type of fluid in the carbs and I want to change to something else can I simply start adding new over old or is there a process of flushing the units and then adding the new?

Excuse my ignorance but what is a brass drift?

Depending on your budget I would recommend getting a compressor and air tools. Since I got mine last spring life has completely changed:love: Especially since I no longer have to go to the gas station to fill my tires. 2 sets of jack stands to get all 4 corners up off of floor is nice. This isn't so much a tool but foam pipe insulation to wrap around the handle of your floor jack is nice. Keeps from scratching the ground effects. The variaty of wrenches spoken of earlier, magnetic tray for bolts and nuts and beer for afterwards.:classic:

I'm glad to hear ATF is acceptable. It's weird, but it seems on occasion when I put fluid in my carbs it initially fills and then after a few seconds it seems to dissappear and look as if they need to be filled again. About 4 or 5 months ago I was refilling the resevoirs and I must have filled them 3 or 4 times each and they finally started to appear like they would hold their levels. I looked all around the bottoms of the carbs to see if they were leaking but nothing. Perhaps they were just really low. Would this phenomenon indicate an potential oncoming problem?

What about something along the lines of transmission fluid?

Can anyone tell me where the fluid in the resevoirs for the carbs goes? These are round-top carbs. Does it evaporate or leak out somewhere, burn up? How often should those things be topped off? I'm mostly a weekend driver so it's not getting daily use. Thanks

Another angle of the spacer.

Here ya go. It's kind of hard to get a good picture without lifting the car but this will give you an idea of where it goes. It's the shiny aluminum plate you see in the center. I think it's about an 1" thick +/- and gets sandwiched between the strut tower and the wheel spindle (?). Not sure of the terms here, but it's real easy. The bump stops are in the strut tower and I can't get a shot of those without dropping the strut assembly but basically you stick those things in a vice and cut the top off which I believe is the narrower end. I'm trying to remember if they're tapered - I think they are. I used a hack saw to cut the stop. I do have the non-adjustable tokico's. I previously had KYB's (unknowingly) and they felt sloppy in comparison but that was also with stock springs. If I can remember, I'll get my car up on a jack and take a better pict. of the bumpsteer spacer for you this weekend.

Hi mperdue- Everything turned out really well. I'm very happy with the set up and have become an even more aggressive driver! Half kidding. If you haven't started the install yet, as I have mentioned before, be sure to get the springs in the right spots. Each spring has a part # on it that ends in either XXXX.100 or .010 and .200 or .020 or some combination thereof. The point is the part # with the .100 goes in the front and the .200 series in the rear. That was my one hangup. I had switched the two spring sets and the result wasn't good so I did it again. Other than that everything went together pretty well. I would recommend airtools if at all possible or it will take a lot longer. The impact wrench was invaluable when it came to compressing the springs. I did use the spacers and I'm glad I did. The more I thought about it, it made no sense to push the camber out anymore than necessary. The spacers are real easy to install and bring everything basically back to original configurations. The one thing I have wondered is whether to install the camber kit to help with the overall adjustment. I also cut down the bump stops about 3/4" ( a little off the top please) on recommendation from MSA. I did not grease these parts and wish that I had although it's not a big deal. I think what you will find with this setup is that it's an absolute blast to drive the twisties and I look for corners and accelerate through as many as possible because I can! I'm not the fastest off the line but I will kill alot of cars in the curves. You will also realize just how bumpy most roads are out there. I spend a lot of time avoiding bumps and things in the road as it is a bit rougher but well worth it! The performance, for me, far outways the rougher ride and the car looks a lot better in its stance. Good luck and have fun!

I just came from Las Vegas and I paid $2.04/gal. for 87 octane. Here in Denver the price is more like $1.60 something.