XYZ

OOOOOHHHHHH! That might have been next. Yeah- I got lucky there. Glad it didn't get that far. :sick: :sick:

The damage was already done. It was look, image of troll with finger up nose, look away. AAAAUUUUGGGGHHH! Too late! It all happened in 1 or 2 seconds. I wish I had never looked over but I look around at the other cars when stopped at a light. You never know when you might see a nice piece of eye candy. :classic: Instead I got dog @#%(.

Okay- I'm sitting at a stop light yesterday and look to my right. There sits this short, portly lady with her index finger shoved so far up her nose..... Anyway, she then proceeds to extract her trophy and thoroughly exam it. I really, really, really didn't need to see this- ugh just gross. I guess the point of this (other than to help distribute some of my disgust and shock) is to make people aware of this dasturdly habit. It happens, I know, but please be descrete if it must happen at all. Sorry to take up such a rude subject so early but it stayed with me.

In the long run you'll probably have a more valuable car if you leave the 240 stock. I personally like the idea of the extra power with a V8 in the Z. I'm actually considering it as a future project but if I do it I'm going to use a 280Z or buy one that's already converted.

Not that I'm a real mechanic or anything but for $3.00 for a box of 100 gloves, I use the latex gloves that make your hands all sweaty and powdery. They're not too bad until they rip but since they're so cheap I just slap on another. I've seen the mechanics gloves in stores. What happens if you accidentally get oil or something on them? Does it leak through to your skin? I have a mechanic friend across the street that wears the latex gloves or something a little heavier and really likes the protection from the various toxins that he encounters. The first time I worked with him, I asked him not to laugh at me for wearing gloves and then he told me he did too. The world was right! :sick:

Dwight- looking at my Haynes manual, the spec's they give for the rear springs seem to be the same for the 240 and 260. The fronts are different in wire diameter (stiffer for 260) and # of turns making the 260 length longer than the 240.

Hi Dwight- I'd be very fair. PM me and we can talk about it pending they fit.:classic: I doubt shipping would be too bad. Luckily they don't weigh too much and I'm in Denver so we're pretty close, relatively.

Tokiko non-adjustables gas shocks are similar to the KYB's and cost about $240/set of 4 for another option. The illumina's are adjustable gas shocks that cost about $460/set of 4 and have 5 settings. KYB also has an adjustable shock and are supposed to be more difficult to adjust. Don't have any experience with how they feel on the road. I run Tokiko non adjustables on my car but I also have Eibach springs that lower and stiffen the ride. I definately feel the bumps and cracks when driving. I unknowingly had KYB's (non-adjustables) with the stock springs before making the switch. My car handles completely different with the springs/shocks changed out. I've been told the KYB's are the standard swap-out for stock shocks (if there any left). Have you upgraded your bushings? That would help tighten up the ride some. Good luck. Check www.shox.com for pricing on KYB's and Tokiko's. There are some more expensive, higher performance shocks out there too like Bilstein's and Koni's.

Hi Dwight- I have a set of original springs from my 260 (early 74') with about 77K on them. They seem to be pretty stiff still and in good shape. When I lowered my car with Eibach's my car lowered more than expected (close to 2" not the 1 - 1 1/2 " usually encountered) which makes me think they hadn't sagged as much as others. Not 100% certain about the sag part just my opinion. What year car do you have? Not sure if my springs would be compatible but I'm not using them, they're just sitting in a box. I put on 240 springs for my 260 so maybe they'd work?!

I posted this back in december. I'm glad to see there is finally some feedback on this topic. Try this site as it's a registration for getting a copy of the DVD. http://www.nissanusa.com/ms/zDVD/dvdReg.html It should be noted that I had to download a flash player or something to get into the original site. Hopefully this link will bypass that part. The video is pretty cool. Good luck.

There was a thread back awhile here about repairing your dash by sending it overseas to Australia or something for $600-700 shipping included, completely restored. I don't remember exactly what the costs where but it wasn't that expensive. If you do the full plastic cap for the $90-$100 bucks or whatever it costs, it looks pretty good. I have one in my Z and it's pretty hard to tell what's happening underneath it. I had three cracks and except for a very slight wave in the dash you'd never know. It didn't take long to install and looks great. If nothing else, for the $100 or so bucks it's a good temporary fix if you absolutely can't stand seeing the crack.

I may have found a supplier for some chrome tape to use on these door trim beads. There is a web site http://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmm1080.html that carries the stuff in 1/4" widths. Scroll down to the kwik tape section. They have all different colors. I think this stuff is 4 bucks for 36' so you can share with all your friends. I have some on order and should pick it up in a week or two. I bought some 'duct' tape but it has too much of a brushed steel look to it, $3.50 I think. I have not tried the solar tube stuff and am going to wait until this other tape comes in. I'll keep you posted on if/how it works.

Chicken!

Kmack- Try these numbers RC3465 and RC3466. They're Raybestos remanf. calipers purchased through checker auto parts. They're for a Toyota 4x4 '85 pickup. Don't know if these are regional #'s or not but worth a try. I was never given a choice on piston sizes so I can't answer your question but maybe these parts #'s will. Good luck. The dust plate can be cut easily with some tin snips and it's pretty much a straight bolt on.

This is a little off topic, but what do guys (and gals) think of the new Chrysler Crossfire? I think it's got some interesting lines. A sports car that doesn't look like the TT, 350z, Mazda 6.... They even designed in a small cargo area in the rear that houses two racing helmets if your feeling a little friskie. I like the looks better in certain angles than others but overall I like it. I would reserve final judgement until I see one in person but so far...Interesting. http://www.car-truck.com/chryed/concept/xfire.htm

Arizona240 meant to say 280's not 260's. :stupid: :dead: KIDDING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great question. For me, the go takes precidence. I can live with a crappy exterior (less so on interior) if the car runs. It's pretty embarrassing to get whipped by a beater. You don't have anything to lose in a beater. I had an old chevy truck that you needed vice grips to roll down the windows and it was actually two different trucks combined into one, a real piece of %^$# and it looked every bit of it, but it ran. Surprised alot of people and the best part was I didn't care much about the truck itself. Really fun to smoke a ricer that's all tricked out to the nine's but doesn't run. Ultimately though, I would want a car that is complete and looked every bit as nice as it runs pending I had the money to channel into a project. On a limited budget, depending on the car, I might split the difference between performance and looks. An old 'vette for me as an example, I would spend a lot of money on its looks but it would be able to back it up too. My old truck, nah!

If you have software like photoshop, you can copy the picture of the rim and then past into a picture of your car to see how they would look. You have to resize a little but it's real easy. I did eight or nine shots for my car like this when I was trying to decide on rims.

I'm pretty sure that rear wings on front wheel drive cars add about 4-5 hp. I think if you look in any site on how to rice it's an inexpensive way to get HP. Just like adding the decals and the grapefruit tailpipe. :stupid:

ZV- Seriously, those things look like something a really dopey ricer chick would put on their pink or purple saturn. All I can say is if you buy those things you better be able to whip anyone who pulls up next to you! Sorry, man! How much would you have to pay for those anyway? You could send me the money instead.

this is a difficult situation. You really want the car but the guy's an arse. I've been there and what you have to decide is how bad you want the car. Are you willing to pay full price? Are you willing to walk away? How long are you willing to negotiate with this guy? All things to consider. I think you've gotten good advice in that you make an offer you think is fair and give him a deadline. You can always make a different offer than the original or change the terms as nothing has been closed. This plays into the negotiations, it's a big game and he's playing it. I don't necessarily think you never call again. You can call to find out if he's made a decision yet and based on that information decide how to proceed. Good luck.

Don't get me wrong - I would love to see the Z start to command more on the open market but, wow! This is a very average car. I really wonder if that is a typo because my 96 dodge stratus is in way better shape than that car and I'd be lucky to 4K for the stratus.

The number @ the top is 40 DCOE18. Hopefully that helps.

Is it just me or am I reading the bid wrong? 10k just doesn't go as far as it used too, does it? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2401225367 :dead:

Hi McZ- I don't what size they are. I looked on the housing real quick and didn't see any size markings. Is there a way I could determine their size? If so I can post it.