jezze

Anyone have luck stopping the plastic interior panels from creaking? I'm not really into placing torn match book wedges all over the place. Can I take the panels off and use some sort of rubber lining or spray to quite down the creaking? Helping mom out to quite down the 280z.

Yeah flog that Z.

Know you I'm not positive what brackets I ordered from Summit. They're either Energy Suspension or Suspension Techniques bushing/brackets. As for the sway bar, I did get it at a Z shop in Santa Rosa, and the guy did not know what brand the bar is. I'll either order a pair of brackets from one of the companies mentioned above, so I do not have to drill, or I'll just drill the damn thing. My Z is not a beauty queen.

I had a vibration problem in my '71, turned out to be an out-of-round drum. It took me new tires, two tires balancings, a changed stub axle, all new bushings around the car until I had the thing on stands and my girl friend was like, "hey maybe that round thing is not really round." Yeah turned out to be a $15 fix after my girlfriend figured it out for me:stupid:

bushing and mounting brackets. I bought a sway bar from a Z shop near my house and ordered these E.S. bushing and mounting brackets months ago from Summit. I finally got around to installing the larger sway bar today and the mounting brackets do not line up with the bolt holes on my '71 Z? I called Summit and they told me that the brackets are universal, which they meant that I would have to drill holes into my car to make this kit work. "They fit all cars!" :stupid: Yeah, of course if you have to drill. Is that right? Do I really have to drill holes into my car to fit a larger sway bar? It seems aftermarket companies would make upgrading to a larger sway bar a simple plug and chug design. Am I wrong here?

Time for a valve job perhaps. Check your points first if you're still running them.

I did that conversion yesterday and my '71 driveshaft with the '79 5-speed worked perfectly. I had other mods to worry about because of the year of my car, but it runs like a dream now.

mine was that my U-joints were kind of toasted too, but the noise/vibration was the result of those four bolts that hold the driveshaft to the diff coming loose; I mean those bolts were so loose the nuts were almost falling off. The torque of the driveshaft then bent two of the bolts, so the driveshaft at the diff end was not flush to the joining part at the diff where they bolt together. This caused the driveshaft to vibrate, hence the noise and vibration at the gearshifter. Happy Irish Day, stay safe out there, Jess

Just today my tranny started doing the same thing, I think. The sound is not loud, but it is like this scraping kind of vibrating noise. Also, if I keep my hand on the stick I can actually feel the scraping vibration. The noise and vibration only occurs when I am decelerating or accelerating. When the car is in gear or neutral when at a stop it's fine. I checked the U-joints and only the stub axel has one that is kind of bad, but I know from experience that this is not what is causing this strange noise/vibration. My tranny mount and bolts also seems to be fine. I feel like it's something internal inside the transmission, but I'm wrong all the time, so I can't figure this one out. Anyway, I want to go five speed, so maybe it's that time. More thoughts on this would seem to benefit a few of us at this point. Thanks all, Jesse

Rite on Jon.

Knew it was too good to be true. Thanks Arne.

I was browsing posts on sway bars and Jon said this, "The later MSA bar for the 280s might be a bit better because they have the brackets that drop down off of the frame rail, unlike the 240s." Now, I may have taken this too out of context, but the person Jon was posting back to has a 240z. And the jist was that ST anti-sway bars are better, but you're going to go MSA, then one should get the 280 style. I may just be confused, and it would be WAY to convenientif this did work out.

There is a great deal on craigslist for front and rear sway bars for a 280zx from Motor Sport Auto. Would these work on my 240Z?

I took my pump off when I had my L24. I thought it would make the car go faster, but it didn't.

Oh busting studs is no bueno at all, I don't even want to think about it. I did a L28 swap on a buddy's car recentley and who ever busted the studs on the head before I got to it did a number on it. The person tried to get the studs out with carbide easy-outs. I know they are carbide because trying to drill into the damaged area laughed at me when I tried heat and a cobalt drill. I had to buy two $20 carbide drill bits to get the broken carbide pieces out. It sounds like it is possible to pull the gasket without pulling the motor, so I will just go for it. My girlfriend is ragging on me anyway, so a visit with Dad and a weekend wrenching on the car will do me some good. Thanks for all the feed back. This site and its members are all so cool.