jezze

Anyone have luck stopping the plastic interior panels from creaking? I'm not really into placing torn match book wedges all over the place. Can I take the panels off and use some sort of rubber lining or spray to quite down the creaking? Helping mom out to quite down the 280z.

Yeah flog that Z.

Know you I'm not positive what brackets I ordered from Summit. They're either Energy Suspension or Suspension Techniques bushing/brackets. As for the sway bar, I did get it at a Z shop in Santa Rosa, and the guy did not know what brand the bar is. I'll either order a pair of brackets from one of the companies mentioned above, so I do not have to drill, or I'll just drill the damn thing. My Z is not a beauty queen.

I had a vibration problem in my '71, turned out to be an out-of-round drum. It took me new tires, two tires balancings, a changed stub axle, all new bushings around the car until I had the thing on stands and my girl friend was like, "hey maybe that round thing is not really round." Yeah turned out to be a $15 fix after my girlfriend figured it out for me:stupid:

bushing and mounting brackets. I bought a sway bar from a Z shop near my house and ordered these E.S. bushing and mounting brackets months ago from Summit. I finally got around to installing the larger sway bar today and the mounting brackets do not line up with the bolt holes on my '71 Z? I called Summit and they told me that the brackets are universal, which they meant that I would have to drill holes into my car to make this kit work. "They fit all cars!" :stupid: Yeah, of course if you have to drill. Is that right? Do I really have to drill holes into my car to fit a larger sway bar? It seems aftermarket companies would make upgrading to a larger sway bar a simple plug and chug design. Am I wrong here?

Time for a valve job perhaps. Check your points first if you're still running them.

I did that conversion yesterday and my '71 driveshaft with the '79 5-speed worked perfectly. I had other mods to worry about because of the year of my car, but it runs like a dream now.

mine was that my U-joints were kind of toasted too, but the noise/vibration was the result of those four bolts that hold the driveshaft to the diff coming loose; I mean those bolts were so loose the nuts were almost falling off. The torque of the driveshaft then bent two of the bolts, so the driveshaft at the diff end was not flush to the joining part at the diff where they bolt together. This caused the driveshaft to vibrate, hence the noise and vibration at the gearshifter. Happy Irish Day, stay safe out there, Jess

Just today my tranny started doing the same thing, I think. The sound is not loud, but it is like this scraping kind of vibrating noise. Also, if I keep my hand on the stick I can actually feel the scraping vibration. The noise and vibration only occurs when I am decelerating or accelerating. When the car is in gear or neutral when at a stop it's fine. I checked the U-joints and only the stub axel has one that is kind of bad, but I know from experience that this is not what is causing this strange noise/vibration. My tranny mount and bolts also seems to be fine. I feel like it's something internal inside the transmission, but I'm wrong all the time, so I can't figure this one out. Anyway, I want to go five speed, so maybe it's that time. More thoughts on this would seem to benefit a few of us at this point. Thanks all, Jesse

Rite on Jon.

Knew it was too good to be true. Thanks Arne.

I was browsing posts on sway bars and Jon said this, "The later MSA bar for the 280s might be a bit better because they have the brackets that drop down off of the frame rail, unlike the 240s." Now, I may have taken this too out of context, but the person Jon was posting back to has a 240z. And the jist was that ST anti-sway bars are better, but you're going to go MSA, then one should get the 280 style. I may just be confused, and it would be WAY to convenientif this did work out.

There is a great deal on craigslist for front and rear sway bars for a 280zx from Motor Sport Auto. Would these work on my 240Z?

I took my pump off when I had my L24. I thought it would make the car go faster, but it didn't.

Oh busting studs is no bueno at all, I don't even want to think about it. I did a L28 swap on a buddy's car recentley and who ever busted the studs on the head before I got to it did a number on it. The person tried to get the studs out with carbide easy-outs. I know they are carbide because trying to drill into the damaged area laughed at me when I tried heat and a cobalt drill. I had to buy two $20 carbide drill bits to get the broken carbide pieces out. It sounds like it is possible to pull the gasket without pulling the motor, so I will just go for it. My girlfriend is ragging on me anyway, so a visit with Dad and a weekend wrenching on the car will do me some good. Thanks for all the feed back. This site and its members are all so cool.

Not urgent but it would be nice to have my exhaust/intake manifold gasket changed this weekend. My car is a 1971Z, which recently under went the turbo swap. The motor in it now is the 1983 ZXT motor with the webbed intake manifold. For those who know, getting to the bolts that hold the intake and exhasut on a SU carbed motor are easy to take out, since getting your fingers between the runners is possible. However, with the webbed manifold there is no where to access the bolts. My question here is this: is the webbed fuel injected manifold bolted to the head the same way as the carbed style? On the SU carbed style manifold there are several bolts that hold both the intake and exhaust manifolds to the head using the same studs, is this the case with the fuel-injected manifold, or is the exhaust and intake manifold bolts and studs completely seperate of each other with the fuel-injected style? Basically I'm trying to avoid using a cherry-picker. Well I hope I described this so it can be understood, thank you in advance for any responses. Jesse.

Thanks for the great info Will. I'm still curious though. On the pic I posted the wheels are four-lug style, not five as is the case with other reproductions I've seen. They are truly mystery wheels. :bandit:

I did a L28 engine swap for this guy who bought the motor from me. The motor was stock, and with his SU's bolted on with a header that car ran so, so well. It was quik and very relialbe, almost perfect I would say for daily driver. With all said and done the guy spent $400 on the motor, $225 on the header and $400 to me for labor. If you do the job yourself your looking at an inexpensive way fun Z car.

I put an '83 L28et into my '71, it hauls azz now. But if you decide to stay n/a I would keep the L6 and mod it out. Research a good head/block, like the F54/P90 combo. Also, use a big camshaft with a nice header. If money is not an issue you could have the head ported to the header and polished up for some extra flow, add some tripples, and man, that Z would seriously be a screamer! Well you could also turn that L6 into a stroker motor if money is really not an issue. Trip around on this website and see what you think about the stroker setup. http://www.bbgraphics1.com/73z/index.html

Anyone know what kind of wheels there are? http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=7234&cat=500&ppuser=4987

I was asking because I put a stock '83 L28et motor and ECU into my '71Z. It feels pretty fast. Today I put a dynomax super turbo muffler on it and it now is way quiter and even seems a little slowet compared to the open exhaust I was originally running. Any idea how much rear wheel power the L28et's put to the rear wheels? I'm guessing 150whp with that restrictive muffler, but I really have no clue.

That's good reading, thanks a bunch Enigma!

Yeah the 4-speed does seem to have some trouble holding the l28et. I put a new clutch in and had the flywheel resurfaced before matting the two together. The car is still way faster than my L24/su motor, but I do feel some clutch slippage in 1st and 2nd gears, maybe 3rd too. I can't really tell. I'm saving some money to swap up to the 82-82 na 5-speed and 3.9 R200. Still any idea how much rear wheel horse power, and/or how much flywheel power this motor setup pushes?

Has anyone found a conversion for the amount of power lost from a crank measurment of horse power to a measurment of wheel horse power due to drive train? Does that sound confusing? How much power is lost at the wheels due to drivetrain? I guess that sounds a little better. Okay, thanks.

Interesting, thanks for the tip.