jezze

Hey guys, I recently completed my turbo swap into my 1971 240z. I am playing around with the 1/4 mile calculator and was wondering if anyone has any idea of how much power my motor is pushing to the flywheel, and/or wheels. I am interested to see if I am possibly running in the 14.5 range in the 1/4. The motor is a stock 1983 L28et with stock ecu. The only mod is a 3" downpipe to open exhaust and a 1" plug in place of the popoff valve. The Block is matted to a 240z 4-speed and rolls on 14in wheels. Thanks for chiming in.

Hey thanks for the replies. The whole clutch assembly is from a 240z, as I mentioned the only difference here is that the flywheel is matted to the F54 block. I am under pressure as I am moving to S.F. this weekend and having my car ready to roll would be such a stress reliever. My clutch may be mis-ajusted. Can someone give me a call? 805 550 4149. Jesse.

I just installed a new 240z clutch to my 240z flywheel, which is now matted to my 280zxt engine I just got working today. I went to go for a ride and the clutch is sliping horribly. I mean the car will not go pull past 25mph. And that's being very sensitive to the gas. I bled the fluid well---I think. Are these clutchs self-ajusting or am I missing something here? Ahhh, any thoughts on the matter will be helpful. Thanks everyone looking.

Can outrageous backfiring cause internal timing problems(timing chain, ect)? Before I started messing with (and probably messing up) my carboration and timing my stock L24 would backfire, so loud actually that it blew my muffler. Also, my fisrt, second and forth cylider spark plugs are all oily/gasy looking, the others seem fine. One other thing, it looks as though there is some oil seeping from my head gasket above the first and second spark plug area. I took off the cam cover and found 1st at TD. I set my distributer (153624 counter clockwise) to this, then tried it roughly 180 degrees off. The car runs at the appropriate setting, but seems to need a timing ajustment. So I loosened my distributer, and retarted it (I usually have it advanced all the way), and retarding it just made it worse. It seems the motor wants more advance, but ajusting the plugs on the distributer to achieve this takes away the goal of having the harmonic balacer set at TD and as a result threw the timing further off. So at idle with timing set as it should the car runs fine, but once I apply gas the back firing starts as if the timing is off. I ajusted my carbs too by the way. Someone mentined the advance mechansim in the distributer could be checked if I take off the vacuum line to the SU and suck on it. I did this and if move rather reluctantly, but it does move the 1/2 inch or so it is supposed to (if this is accurate I don't know.) The points are fine, and the plugs are champions, but at least they are ajusted right. Soooooo, any thoughts???

My RPM's will just die. I am driving and then stop at a stop sign and the RPM's will dip down to 0, then rev back up to normal idle. This does not happen every time, however. And sometimes the car will not start after being driven, but other times there is no problem. I am thinking this is electrical, but possibly carbs? I have replaced the points, plugs (not NGK plugs, but Champion-shitty), the rotor and cap. Could the coil be going out, or does it simply die when it goes bad? From the look of my plugs, it seems the carbs are running rich. Any thoughts on the above, thanks...

I am using 7mm wires, champion plugs and points from a corporate auto-parts dealer. Could this combo result in a poor performance at higher RPM's? Are these z cars fairly tempormental compared to chevy's for example? I had a 1969 Camaro and it seemed that enigine would run no matter how I neglected it. Is it possible for these cheap parts to allow popping through the carbs, and hesitation above 4Grand?

Well my stock '71Z is still running funny. The car seems to idle fine, but when I'm on the freeway at normal speed it will repeadedly backfire through the one of the carbs. When I floor it it will run well up to about 4000, then feels like it's running out of gas or the points are whacked. Also I checked the plugs and they are all kind of white, the 4,5,6 being the worst with a slight flakyness to them. I've replaced the wires, plugs, points, cap and rotor. I thought I ajusted the carbs well, but maybe I didn't? Any thoughts or comments to something I may be overlooking? Thank ya'll

The pics are great the vid is just ama(z)ing. This guy went above and beyond for the Z community. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106731&highlight=video Good luck!

Well I could say that reajusting the points and plugs did it, but putting the wires on the distributor cap probably was the most effective fixit:stupid: . I knew that my first distributor cap had a "1" marked on the underside, which I took for granted met that that was the number one cylinder. So in my haste I pulled the wires, changed them and replaced them with a new cap, aligned with the old cap's "1." What did the trick was just fussing with it. I moved all the wires over counter-clockwide until the car ran proper. Nothing fancy, but it's good to hear the Z idle again. Oh I have to get a new muffler now. The fierce backfires that were plauging the car before I got the tune-up parts killed the muffler. "If it ain't one thing it's mother-f----ing-nother."

She's a runnin!

Is there gas in the tank?

That response sounds very promising. I will check that, thanks alot.

the wires are correct I just typed the firing order wrong

the valves were ajusted about 3000 miles ago. It did not feel like a gradual loss of power or vavle hesitation to me, but I'm not an expert. And the valves sound tight. The fuel nozzles that you talk of, are those the piston type things that can be checked by taking off the filter and just putting your finger inside the carb and pressing up on it?

the carb that is popping smoke smells alot of gas. When I rub my finger on the cone it is gas

stock '71 L24... The latest problem: I've got puff of smoke popping out of the SU closest to the radiator. The other is fine. Both air/gas screws were tightened, then brought out 3 full turns. I've changed the points (gap .016-.018), cap, wires, plugs. Did not pull the rotor out. The pistons in the carbs do move up and down, the fouled carb does move just a barley easier than the other that's closer to the cab. The symptoms before this would-be-easy endeavor: First the engine would die when I exit the highway. Then when driving casually the rpm would totally stop, as if the motor lost spark, then pick right up again. After this, about a day later, some mean backfiring. I'm mean like a shotgun, in fact my muffler is not sounding perferct anymore. This seems like timing to me, so to duoble check. The firing order is 153642 and the pistons go 1-6 from front to back, right? And the dizzy spins counter-clockwise, right? Bad gas? Something sucked into carb? ??? thanks, jessz