jurven240z

This is George. He was only 5 pound 9 years ago. Also have two red ear turtles in a 65 gal tank.

Before the H/L harness was installed the left H/L was dim (including the high beam). Why? Over heating H/L and T/L fuses have melted away the right side of the fuse box. Down to the point that installing a fuse will cause the metal plate underneath to move (grounding a big problem). Years ago before Dave was into Zs I had a major meltdown caused by the P/L wiring/fuse. Wires melted from the switch to the fuse box. I had to rewire the P/L wires to an aftermarket fuse box for a temporary fix. Parking Lights work fine now no hot fuse. But the H/L fuses were always overheating till one of them went dim. The Z is my daily driver and before I joined a vanpool was driven over 100 miles daily. Think the vanpool saved my electrical system. Good thing Dave came around to save us. My Z had a kiss in the Stone Age when someone installed an after market flat H/L plugs. Dave was able to provide a half harness with butt connectors. This allowed me to remove (aftermarket plugs) and attached harness plugs. Only took me 30 minutes to install this. Now I was able to install Dave's H/L harness in only 15 minutes. Results are day and night difference. To install all you do is disconnect and connect the plugs. Hang the relays like Dave's example.The ground wires are the correct length to attach them to the center valance OUTER MOUNTING BOLT (make sure you have good ground I found that out). Reinstall the fuse (if removed like Dave recommends) and connect the power wire. Zip tie or use what ever you like to hold the harness. The P/L harness is next. Is the price for the harness just? Yes, I was or am looking at rewiring the whole Zed. Dave eased my worries on when is the car going to shut down on my way to or from work. With this being my only transportation I could not afford the down time to redo the wiring. Now I don't smell the plastic burning and can install another fuse box in better condition and not worry about it melting also. Do you think you will get a quote of $100.00 from an auto electric shop when asked to fix your dim H/L? Will they come up with an easy fix like Dave's? Again great product and you are the man Dave. Wish I meet you when I lived in Marysville.

Try the link below. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

I pulled a booster from a 260Z and it looks like the one SteveInOakland pictured. It is bigger in diameter but the bolts did not match my 5/70 Z. If someone wants it for the shipping cost let me know.

With these parts becoming harder to find one is forced to concider rear disc brake conversion...

I know a booster from a 260z will not bolt up. I have one in the garage that I picked from a pic-a-part lot.

I had a reaction disk problem for a few year and my pedal had no feeling until the bottom end of the foot travel. You stated "When I push down on my brake pedal, it has pressure almost all the way and then it just falls out of pressure and collapses." Was this with the engine running? Have you checked for leaks at the real wheel cylinders? Did you bleed the master cylinder on a bench vice before installing? Did you make sure the lines were installed in the correct location? On the master cylinder where the lines conect you will find the letters "F" for front and "R" for rear. Where is the reaction disk? When you remove the master cylinder you see the rod coming out from the booster. This rod is what pushes against the master cylinder but at the other end (inside the booster) there is a rubber disk that tends to fall out if you pull out the rod. I had to remove the booster, pull the rod out by removing the rubber/plastic holding disk (you see this outside the booster).

Purchased my 5/70 in 1989 and I have done this twice. Took the column switch off opened the box and cleaned off the carbon buildup on the contact points. Make sure you do not breakoff the metal taps on the switch box. Take your time opening the box you have a spring and a small ball bearing in there held inplace by grease. You cannot miss the pivoting "V" shape metal contact. On each end there are two contacts that build up carbon over time. I used 4oo grit sanding paper to clean them up. Do it with care you do not want to sand the points down flat. Finally regrease before assembly. I did not have electrical grease so used regular wheel bearing grease. Nothing has happened yet.

History: Few years back had to slam on the brake after that lost the booster. Replaced the booster with an aftermarket rebuilt one. The push rod was too long that I had to shorten it to get the master on. Brakes worked great but one thing. They would gradually lock up the front brakes to the point of the engine stalling. The pedal was ferm with no movement. I lost the reaction disk in the booster with all the adjustments of the push rod and never continued the cause of the locking brakes. Now with no firm pedal feeling I went and purchased two master cylinders and still had no firm pedal but the front brakes were locking up. Left it like this till now. Last weeks project: I went fishing for the reaction disk and fixed that problem. Replaced the master with a 15/16 rebuilt unit. Bench bled and a good bleeding of the system. No problem with the test drive good pedal feel and brakes. Todays event: Was driving to work this morning and after a mile or two stopping to get gas and red lights the car started slowing down and had to give it gas. Pulled over to a parking lot and the car stalled/stopped on its tracks. Same thing as before brake pedal ferm,hard, no movement. Front brakes locked. I had the spouse bring over some tools released some presure from one of the front calipers (hot) and was able to get brakes back enough to drive it home. Called in to extend my leave by one day to fix this. So far I figured out the booster is not locking up. How? By removing the master and pressing the brake pedal and I get movement(made sure not to far too lose the reaction disk). Good thing don't need a booster. Now the master: Could it be bad by not releasing the preasure in the system? Is there a back preasure valve that micht be bad? I just shorten the pushrod and will be releasing the preasure from the front calipers. Will test this before I start removing the master have three spares and two are new rebuilts with less than 20 thousand mile. What do you all think.....5/70 Z

Have you tried the Z yard off the I-805? If I'm right it on Energy Way. To get there take the I-805 exit to the water park in San Diego. Also try calling Mark (former owner of Datsun Alley) locate in Signal Hill (Long Beach area). Has a warehouse full of Z part from the Nissan project (310-614-6957). I still have the original spare with tire if you want to borrow.

71 240z I just spent about 2 minutes with my fingers in the booster fishing for the rubber disk. Caught it. Have the booster on a vise drying the paint before I install it. Went down pulled the disk and checked the thickness, on a regular measuring tape it is 3/16 thick. Covers both lines on each end. You should try fishing for it. I have been driving my Z for 5 years now with the disk lost in the booster. Talking about safe driving. Hope this helps.

Good old Heavy Metal!!! 39 years old and jamming it....Iron Maiden/Priest... The slow it down with some top latin tunes....

Hls3004733 (5/70)

ZSaint post the information you find out. There might be others looking for larger size pistons. Thankz

I spoke with Marc Jones (former Datsun Alley owner) looking for some parts and he was telling me about his involvement in the project. Buddy of mine bought a 70 shell for his turbo built. He had alot of information and knowledge about the project.

SpeedyBlue the link below is from the Z Club of Washington State. Just copy and paste the link. I lived in the Everett area for 8 yeas and visited both shops great people. The two Z shop are 30 miles apart in the Everett area. One is the Z Specialties the other is Z Sport Inc. Also If your bud is willing to drive into Canada Modern Moter Sports is located in Vancouver BC. Only 2 hours away from Everett Wa. http://zccw.org/Businessez/Default.htm

Back in 1994 my 71 4 speed took a dive so went in a had a 78 5sp put in. The price was the same for the 4sp so why not upgrade. Well after one year and less than 5 thousand mile the 5th gear would pop out a few second after ingaging it. Took it in as it was under warranty and was told that some pin had come lose/broken after only 5 thousand miles. They replaced it in one day. Had no problems with the tranny to this day. Replaced it with a rebuilt 83 a year ago getting ready for the 4:11 upgrade. Sorry could not be more technical trannys are not my favorite.

Try the www.zspecialties.com site.

Where did you purchase your S.T. sway bars from?

I spent some time searching the pick-a-part yards. Like Ecology and Killroys in the Long Beach area. Found a P90 for $40 and a R200 (4:11) for $35 on a half price weekend. If you find a P90 just cut or disconnet all the hoses and wires. Remove the timing chain then remove the head bolts and remove the head. Do not try to remove the intake and exchaust manifolds you can spend a whole day under the car. The yards tend to cut the down pipe so all you have to do is losen the head from the block and pull it up and off the engine. Once on the ground you can rotate the head to remove the manifolds. Remove the cam if you don't want to pay for it. This 3 day weekend coming up is a half price for all the parts taken. I have to check but think it is Ecology they have a web site. www.ecoparts.com

Looking at the hood area is it out of alinement? The hood seems to be alittle higher than the light buckets.

My first Z was a first gen 71 for my senior year in high school for $1000 back in 85. This was a teen car to do nothing but crusing and driving it hard. The rust eventualy killed it but it had a rebuilt engine and wheels. My mom sold it after I join the service for $10, just to toll it away. Needed that engine when I purshased my second Z a 5/70 for $1400 in 89 and still have it till now. Around $20000 later the daily driver is still going strong.

The following web site is asking $100.00 plus $12.00 for shipping. He bragged about the quality. www.zspecialties.com I'm in Murrietta and comute to San Diego. Offer $70.00 JB

Tired of driving with my windows up. Looking for a 1st gen hatch inner panel. The one with the vents. Live in Murrieta work in San Diego and travel to L.A. on weekends.

The lock it self attaches to the door like the original with a "U" shape clip. The arm at the end is held in place with a "C" clip and yes there is some movement....