240kconvertible

A friend posted this vid of a burnout I did in one of my old Valiants. It is a 225cubic inch 6cyl pulling 2nd's I could've let the revs go up higher in 1st and then she would've keept smoking 2nd but I had it in drive and didn't want to thrash it too much. I know it's not Datto related but who cares

I can verify this as I now have an old school chrysler 318 (soon to be stroked out to 390 cubic inches) in my coupe and I can change spark plugs without removing the whole engine. As stated all it takes is money. On mine the line of where the bellhousing meets the engine is 15mm from the firewall. The transmission tunnel in my coupe was hacked up a little though so the engine sits right back for weight distribution.

Hey Kent, Been offline for a while but back now. I would love to do your arches for you, for free as well but I now live in Brisbane and can't make it out to yours :cheeky: Don't worry about cutting yours too high as I have been informed by SWR that mine are not cut high enough and the wheels will rub on it.So now I have to do it all over again. I'm very upset as I really should have been smarter and just tacked it in place until SWR were finished:cry::cry::cry::cry::cry: At the moment mine has the 300zx rear end fitted and the modified R31 front crossmember, steering, suspenion fitted as well as the 318 and 5 speed in. All that is left now is the upgrade of the front brakes and brake lines and then it will be shipped back up to me. Your guess of costing 10k was nearly right, it will end up costing a little more than that to finish. If you want, go and check it out at SWR as it will only be there for another week or so before heading to QLD. I still haven't seen what it looks like with the new running gear but I'm sure I'll like it. I will post a heap of pic's it arrives back up here. I should have the arches fitted before the end of the year hopefully Camo but in saying that I was supposed to be driving the vert right now so that may or may not happen.

Hi Dat240k Kent is right on the money, I need the hinge that connects the boot to body, it should only be 3 bolts to remove it 1 connecting the hinge to the body and 2 connecting the hinge to the boot. Let me know if you want cash and I'll pm my address to you. Cheers Andrew

Could one of you two please post the photo of the qtr panel??

This is what the filler looks like. The pipe goes straight through where the hinge used to go, if anyone can help with the hinge please let me know.

He knows how to handle a K that's for sure. A friend of mine put a video of me on youtube having fun in a val but it just seems lame now after watching that.

Make sure your car is a lot higher than in the photo so you have more access space as the other side was up about four inches more when done resulting in a much easier job. I am 6 foot 2 though.

I hope this can help someone, it took a lot longer than I thought it would so be prepared for a long job. Rear Arches Firstly sketch out the area you wish to remove and take all the paint off it (photo 5 + 7), I did this with a sanding pads on a grinder disc. You can get a rough line by holding the gtr flare up and running a pen along the underside. Make sure you cut away enough. You then need to seperate the outside skin from the inside one. The easy way to do this is to just go along the wheel arch using an angle grinder with a really thin disc to take the lip off so the two will seperate. In photo 4 I pulled one apart with a screw driver and it was a total waste of time, just chop the ends off. Once the two skins are seperate then use a very thin cutting disc to made all the verticle cuts marked out on photo 5. Bend all the front skin section outwards and then cut away all the inside skin using the grinder as shown in photo 3. Once this is done you can see (photo 1) that a section is also double skin on the inside, just spot weld the two inside panels every inch or so to secure them together before folding the pieces over and welding. I found it best to weld the two middle two sections shown in photo 1 before bending the others so the panel had some strength and a hammer could be used to help. Tack all the others down and beat gently with a hammer until they have the inside skin shape (photo 2). Photo 6 & 10 show my dodgy welds. The welder I was using would only work on a high amp and was doing a lot of burning through the panel, making life very difficult with lots of molten steel dropping on my ankles. Clean all the welds up with the grinder and grinding disc then paint away. I chose to put fibre glass bog with steel in it over the inside to smooth it out a bit. This fibreglass bog is also ideal for strengthing the mounting points of the flares as if you buy a set from challenge fibreglass like me they won't line up with the guards properly. If you were to just pop rivit them on as Alfa suggested they would break the flare as soon as you tried to tighten them up. I spoke to Phil from Challenge about this and he stated that the addition of bog to fix this problem was common place on nearly all aftermarket flares. The overall job wasn't too neat but the area won't be seen once the flares are on so I wasn't worried. It ended up being very strong after all the welding. I'll post more photos when I get round to doing the front ones and fitting the flares. I'll be changing the flares a little so I won't be putting them on until she comes back from the engineers. Cheers Andrew

I've just started doing mine now, give me a week and I'll post a how to.

I will have to send one of my arches back to get replaced as after close inspection one of the front ones has a stuffed end section. Instead of being squareish at the end it is deformed and has a pointy end that is different to the other side.

I have just realised that my front arches are modified and they are extended at the bottom to go over the 100mm x 50mm box sections that were used to strengthen the car when the roof was taken off. It wasn't the arches after all.

I have just recieved my arches and I'm not too happy with the quality of them, They don't seem to fit any panels very well at all. Has anyone else bought these and had the same problems? The front arch ones are the worst and both my panels are undamaged so it has to be the fiberglass arches that are the wrong size.

Hi Guys as stated I'm after a driver side boot hinge for my coupe, does anyone have or know where i can get one from? I need one as I have put an aircraft style fuel filler on the passenger side and the pipe goes through where the passenger side hinge is so I'm replacing the hinge with a driver side one and will make a new mounting point on the rear parcel shelf. Cheers Andrew

I meant to say C10's I obviously know what it's like to cruise a C110, it appears I just don't know what I'm talking about. Don't worry bout the theadjack. It seems that not too many of our C110's are on the road at this point in time You should get the black one on Ebay Alfa it's in Melbourne. It would be a lot nicer if the chrome at the front and rear was still showing.

Haha I nearly went and looked at a Skyline in Artarmon once but went skydiving instead, Artarmon is pretty close to St Leonards. After looking at some of the C110's in the other thread I want one of those now instead of an R33, wish I had the money. It would be soooo sweet crusing in a C110

Hey Alfa, Did you ever get to hear yours rev with the extractors on it??

Due to my history it isn't worth getting a R33, Soarer or anything above Cressida value but I just can't be told that as I buy on emotion not responsibilty/sensibility. And how cool would it be to have an R33 next to the vert 240k in the garage. I will just be getting third party on any car I own for the next 30 odd months. I have 2 months to find a new car before Boss man gets angry so I will wait for the perfect R33. I couldn't buy an RX as I have told myself that the car I buy cannot have any modification plans involved. I'm just about to get a boat from my Dad really cheap and build that so I cannot afford any time for other projects beside the 240K & boat. Check www.scruffie.com and look at the stornaway weekender if you like boats. Zedvan, it's in my contract as a sales manager not to have an old car, my boss has agreed that the 7 year rule is ok to ignore as long as the car looks good & newish. I don't mind frontwd and would happily drive a late 90's civic around but I would end up pulling the engine out and putting in a vtec B18C6 before too long, thus breaking my no mods rule and I really like sliding around the road in rwd's so I have been looking at them. In saying that I agree with you and would also love a legacy wagon B5 or even an audi RS6 advant........I'm daydreaming again sry. Noodle I'm jealous that you can drive your K, I miss mine being on the road. P.s it looks cool. Sakilo, just put some plates on her and take it for a strap:stupid: After the rego ran out in mine I used to drive it every now and again to a mates garage nearby just for fun, If I got jacked (which I never did) my excuse for driving unreg'd was that I was just on my way to get it checked out for rego. As yours isn't legalised yet that excuse may not hold. If anyone see's a nice R33 series 6 (cheers Kent) in Sydney let me know.

I did use mine as a daily driver for a year but my neck became permenantly red from the sunburn and I couldn't drive with the roof up as the fuel filler was in the boot and leaked fumes into the cabin. Do you use yours as a daily driver Nigel?

I can't say anything I drive a Cressida, In all fairness your suggestion was probably the best advice for me Alfa as I have a driving record 3 pages long and can't insure cars for another 2.5 years due to licence loss. I'm just going to risk the 11k worth of whatever as I've never had an accident and if I don't get a nice new car my boss will fire me and there goes my car allowance. My boss found out I was driving an old cressida and it's in my contract to have a car not more than 7 years old. It was very hard to get him to agree to the R33 or Soarer but I know he doesn't want to fire me just want's me to play by the rules. Hmmmm Camrys are really cheap but will it drive better than the Cressida? and will girls still pay me out when they get in one? this happens all the time any chics get in the cressida, with it's white paint and burgandy velour interior it is so so styling. Even the DVD system doesn't stop the laughs, in fact I think it increases them

The $120 & $140 prices must have been for the bob tail and the front fender/lip sorry noodle. Tyr Phil on his mobile, you can usually get him on that unless he hasn't bought a new battery yet then you'll get him for about 2 minutes.

I kinda agree with you camo, I've always thought the R33 was the ugly overweight skyline and I do like the R32 more but they're just too old now for the price that people are asking and I can't afford to do the 240K and buy a R34 this is why I went the R33 route (not that I mind the r33 it's just up against better looking skylines). I never really liked the look of the Z32 and it doesn't have the turbo RB engine which is what I really want under the bonnet. I think I'll wait for a while until the right Nissan comes up as beyond has advised, the dealers are asking too much for my budget so I have been looking at private ones, with only 11k max I'm just short of being able to afford the nice ones. How much did you pay for yours Nissanman? I'm going to start looking at autos as what you mentioned makes great sense in regards to advoiding the thrashed ones I been test driving. Hey Alfa what did you end up driving after you sold the replica? do you miss having one of the nicest K's around?

The grill is $120 or $140 I didn't write down which was the front fender and which was the grill. I didn't get a price for the bod tail. He's charging me $270 for the four overfenders but this price was given to me after I told him I just wanted the overfenders and nothing else. Is this what you paid Kent? Phil has finally contacted me in regards to sending them so progress is being made. I'll check with him again tomorrow and post the exact prices for all items. Thanks for sorting this contact out as well Kent.

I've been taking a few R33 GTST's for test drives recently and it seems that they are all thrashed to the point that I can feel the suspension falling apart beneath my feet. One 50+ owner even did a lurid powerslide up a hill in third while showing me how it went (it really made me want to buy it...NOT). It did go quite well but when it was my turn to drive it I put it in 4th on the motor way then floored it and the accelleration was not constant but kind of fluttering as the boost kicked in. I'm after a new daily driver and seeing that the prices for quite a few GTST's are just above the 10k mark I thought I'd look into them. I have been very dissapointed in the quality of them though :disappoin The only one that drove better than my old $^!# as cressida was a $20k one with only 36000kms on the clock and that is way out of my price range. Should I keep looking for a unthrashed R33 GTST or just buy a soarer for 5k less??? I'm a nissan lad at heart but the soarer's are just like flying armchairs and I find myself leaning towards them. Please somebody talk some sense into me quickly.

I feel like emailing him the words "your dreaming" but that is simply because I watched the castle last night. How long has this car been up for sale over the entire period you guys have been watching?